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Poor cold Idle / hard starting
- bvallerand
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I live in metro Detroit so its in the high 60's to low 70's right now but this was happening last year when it was super warm out too and a month ago when it was quite a bit colder.
When I go to start the bike, I open the petcock, pull up on the choke lever, and hit the start button. The bike will chug for a couple of seconds and if i give it a tiny bit of throttle it will start. If I let off the throttle it will idle really rough for a second or two and then die. If i immediately remove the choke while holding the throttle open a bit the engine will improve but still die if I let off the gas. I have taken to just turning up the idle screw until it idles happily, usually 1000-1100rpm and then turning it back down once it warms up.
It is easier to start when its choked so I know the choke is doing something but im not quite sure what.
I have tried adjusting the jets but it doesn't seem to be getting me anywhere. I am going through things in the FSM one by one but I was hoping someone would have some experienced insight.
1976 Kawasaki Kz750
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- bvallerand
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- Patton
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Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- bvallerand
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1976 Kawasaki Kz750
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- Patton
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- bvallerand
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1976 Kawasaki Kz750
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- jtpvg
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82 kz 1000 Cafe Racer
82 xj 750
photobucket.com/user/jtpvg/library/82 KZ 1000?sort=3&page=1
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- Patton
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bvallerand wrote: I don't believe I have pilot jet plugs. Not exactly sure what they are.
Review of the carb parts diagram at kawasaki.com confirms your belief that the carbs at hand are the version without pilot jet plugs.
Information on kawasaki.com includes parts diagrams, part names, part numbers, models sharing same part, availability, etc. If needed, here's a link for help with navigating kawasaki.com and finding information.
www.kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/37...imitstart=0&start=20
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- ThatGPzGuy
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Something to think about...
Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
1967 Triumph GT6
1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"
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- bvallerand
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1976 Kawasaki Kz750
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- Patton
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bvallerand wrote: By adjusted the valves are you talking about adjusting the valve lash/ changing the valve shims?
Valve clearances are first measured with a thickness (feeler) gauge to determine whether the clearance of each valve is within specs.
Measuring is a routine scheduled maintenance item. And is usually a simple, quick, easy and relatively fool-proof procedure.
If all the clearances are found to already be within specs, then "adjustment" (adjusting the valve lash/ changing the valve shims) isn't needed.
On engines having exposed shims on top of the buckets (cam lobes in direct contact with the shims), "adjustment," when needed, is also usually a simple, quick, easy and relatively fool-proof procedure. A special tool is used to provide space between the cam and shim to allow removal and replacement of the shim. Removal and replacement of the camshafts isn't required.
On engines having hidden shims under the buckets (cam lobes in direct contact with the buckets), adjustment, when needed, is more complex, and not quite so fool-proof. Due to the additional procedures involved with removing and replacing the camshafts, with the attendant risks of stripping the cam-cap screw holes, and assuring correct cam timing upon re-assembly.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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