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Kz750 E1 Keihin cv34 carb trouble
- Hemmek
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I have rebuilt them with new seals and a new needle valve (the valve attached to the float)
Not sure how it translates.
The thing is that the damn piece of shit still overflows when I leave the peacock on prime.
I cant find a new seat to the valve anywhere and I am unsure if it's even possible to replace.
I have looked for a tool that would let me cut the existing seat to give me a good sealing surface but no.
To get the sucker to seal when I set the float level I polished the seat using one of my old valves and som polishing compound.
It worked at the time but as I suspected It was only temporary.
The other carbs sealed when I adjusted the float level but left one prime it is not uncommon for one or more of them to start overflowing.
What can I do?
I desperately need to fix the seats but short of replacing the carbs I don't Know how.
And if it will come to replacing the carbs what are the best performance replacement?
and since I newly have bought new KN filters I want carb options that will let me use the same filters (pods)
Please help me find a solution
Kawasaki kz750 E1 1980
Kawasaki GPZ 900R A1 1984
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- JR
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I love the vacuum operated petcock. So much better than the old on/off ones where you had to remember to turn to off when shutting down
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
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- koolaid_kid
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Its sole purpose is to fill the fuel bowls when the fuel level in the bowls ls low or empty. Otherwise, the petcock should be set to RUN/ON or RES.
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- 650ed
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Attachment 00008_2014-04-26-2.jpg not found
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Nessism
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- Nebr_Rex
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650ed wrote: Looking at the carb parts diagram on Kawasaki.com (see below) I don't see the float valve seats shown as a replaceable part. As others have said, normally the petcock should be in the RUN /ON position rather than Prime and if the petcock is working properly, that should prevent fuel overflow when the engine is off. However, you still need to address the problem because when the engine is running if the float valve isn't working properly the fuel level in the carb can go too high which might cause excess fuel being drawn into the cylinder. You may want to contact the folks at www.wgcarbs.com and ask if there's a workaround for fixing the float valve seat. Ed
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+1
As far as I know the CV32/34/36 carbs are similar in this respect.
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2002 ZRX1200R
81 GPz1100
79 KZ1000st daily ride
79 KZ1000mk2 prodject
78 KZ650sr
78 KZ650b
81 KZ750e
80 KZ750ltd
77 KZ400/440 cafe project
76 KZ400/440 Fuel Injected
www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=39120.0
.
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- Hemmek
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And it seems that there are one possible fix for this.
He has special ordered a tool of his own design that can cut a new surface on the seat.
BUT it is only possible if the seat are 6mm or bigger, I don't remember and he was talking way way over my league on why there are no way to make a tool that could fix anything smaller.
I Think it was something regarding that even if there where a way to make a smaller tool the price would be ridiculous.
Now I only hope that seats are 6mm or bigger...
Does anybody know?
hopefully someone know so i don't have to pull the carbs yet again (new rubber boots, need to put all my strength into it to get them loose)
Otherwise i will wait until a rainy day
Btw how bad are my English on a scale from one to ten?
Please correct me if i get something totally wrong so i don't do the same mistake again
Best Regards H
Kawasaki kz750 E1 1980
Kawasaki GPZ 900R A1 1984
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- Hemmek
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I ended up making a tool of my own.
Used one of the old valves, some valve lapping compound (the finest I could find) and lapped the seat.
Simple really.
Working as good as it did before the leak.
(I need to rejet my carbs since I am running a 4-1 and KN pods)
But I am able to ride now
thank you all for your input
Best regards H
Kawasaki kz750 E1 1980
Kawasaki GPZ 900R A1 1984
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