Kz750 E1 Keihin cv34 carb trouble

Okay now I have started to hate my carburettors.
I have rebuilt them with new seals and a new needle valve (the valve attached to the float)
Not sure how it translates.
The thing is that the damn piece of shit still overflows when I leave the peacock on prime.
I cant find a new seat to the valve anywhere and I am unsure if it's even possible to replace.
I have looked for a tool that would let me cut the existing seat to give me a good sealing surface but no.
To get the sucker to seal when I set the float level I polished the seat using one of my old valves and som polishing compound.
It worked at the time but as I suspected It was only temporary.
The other carbs sealed when I adjusted the float level but left one prime it is not uncommon for one or more of them to start overflowing.

What can I do?
I desperately need to fix the seats but short of replacing the carbs I don't Know how.

And if it will come to replacing the carbs what are the best performance replacement?
and since I newly have bought new KN filters I want carb options that will let me use the same filters (pods)

Please help me find a solution

The only time I use Prime is for a few seconds to prime the bowls if the bike has been sitting for a couple of days. Otherwise it's on Run and the vacuum operation works fine. If I left petcock on Prime the carbs would eventually overflow. If measuring the fuel service level (which I havn't done for a few years) then Prime for a few minutes is not an issue.
I love the vacuum operated petcock. So much better than the old on/off ones where you had to remember to turn to off when shutting down

I agree with JR. There are only two instances when PRI should be used. When you have run out of fuel, and when the bike has been sitting for a while.
Its sole purpose is to fill the fuel bowls when the fuel level in the bowls ls low or empty. Otherwise, the petcock should be set to RUN/ON or RES.

Looking at the carb parts diagram on Kawasaki.com (see below) I don't see the float valve seats shown as a replaceable part. As others have said, normally the petcock should be in the RUN /ON position rather than Prime and if the petcock is working properly, that should prevent fuel overflow when the engine is off. However, you still need to address the problem because when the engine is running if the float valve isn't working properly the fuel level in the carb can go too high which might cause excess fuel being drawn into the cylinder. You may want to contact the folks at www.wgcarbs.com and ask if there's a workaround for fixing the float valve seat. Ed

My 750E2 has viton float needles tips and the rubber seals well. I've seen various "rebuild kits" on the market and many of them don't have the rubber coated tip. Hopefully this is something to look into, but needless to say as some other suggest, measure the fuel level in the carbs and don't assume...

650ed wrote: Looking at the carb parts diagram on Kawasaki.com (see below) I don't see the float valve seats shown as a replaceable part. As others have said, normally the petcock should be in the RUN /ON position rather than Prime and if the petcock is working properly, that should prevent fuel overflow when the engine is off. However, you still need to address the problem because when the engine is running if the float valve isn't working properly the fuel level in the carb can go too high which might cause excess fuel being drawn into the cylinder. You may want to contact the folks at www.wgcarbs.com and ask if there's a workaround for fixing the float valve seat. Ed

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+1
As far as I know the CV32/34/36 carbs are similar in this respect.

.

I have found a guru here in Sweden now.
And it seems that there are one possible fix for this.
He has special ordered a tool of his own design that can cut a new surface on the seat.
BUT it is only possible if the seat are 6mm or bigger, I don't remember and he was talking way way over my league on why there are no way to make a tool that could fix anything smaller.
I Think it was something regarding that even if there where a way to make a smaller tool the price would be ridiculous.

Now I only hope that seats are 6mm or bigger...
Does anybody know?

hopefully someone know so i don't have to pull the carbs yet again (new rubber boots, need to put all my strength into it to get them loose)

Otherwise i will wait until a rainy day

Btw how bad are my English on a scale from one to ten?
Please correct me if i get something totally wrong so i don't do the same mistake again

Best Regards H

Problem solved at least for now.
I ended up making a tool of my own.
Used one of the old valves, some valve lapping compound (the finest I could find) and lapped the seat.
Simple really.
Working as good as it did before the leak.
(I need to rejet my carbs since I am running a 4-1 and KN pods)
But I am able to ride now
thank you all for your input

Best regards H