Running Rich??

I bought this 82 305 CSR back in November. It was very difficult to start. I cleaned tank and carbs and replaced the points. Finally I replaced the condenser and plugs at the same time; then it would start. Yeah!!

Over the next couple months as it got warmer (or less cold) I would ride it more. Here lately it has gotten hard to start again. I pulled the plugs and they look dark. I am color blind so reading plugs is not my thing I guess. Here is a pict.



I replaced the plugs and it starts again.

The bike runs well. This is my first motorcycle so I do not have much reference for how fast it is but it does run smooth. The plugs in the photo have about 120 miles on them. I am thinking it is running rich. What is your opinion?

How do I fix this. The bike still has the factory air box/filter on it. Would pod filters possibly lean it a bit? Can you get different size jets for the carbs? I have no idea of the history of this bike. I do not know what someone else may have done to this.

Thanks,
HH

The weird thing is it runs well, nice and strong. So, I think it is only a little bit rich. But it ruins plugs in just 100 miles. Seems like it would need to be really rich to do that damage.

What spark plugs are you using? If they are the wrong heat range (too cold) they can foul pretty easily. Ed

The owners manual says NGK D9EA. That is what I had that fouled and what I put back in. Gap is .026" as per book. Maybe that should change....

happyhunter wrote: I bought this 82 305 CSR back in November. It was very difficult to start. I cleaned tank and carbs and replaced the points. Finally I replaced the condenser and plugs at the same time; then it would start. Yeah!!

Over the next couple months as it got warmer (or less cold) I would ride it more. Here lately it has gotten hard to start again. I pulled the plugs and they look dark. I am color blind so reading plugs is not my thing I guess. Here is a pict.

I replaced the plugs and it starts again.

The bike runs well. This is my first motorcycle so I do not have much reference for how fast it is but it does run smooth. The plugs in the photo have about 120 miles on them. I am thinking it is running rich. What is your opinion?

How do I fix this. The bike still has the factory air box/filter on it. Would pod filters possibly lean it a bit? Can you get different size jets for the carbs? I have no idea of the history of this bike. I do not know what someone else may have done to this.

Thanks,
HH

If needed, here's a link to download an Owner's Manual:
Click here > www.kaseydavis.com/1987KZ305LTD.pdf
(Recommends plugs shown in the photo.)

Would assure fresh clean clear unobstructed air-box filter (not blocked by a rag or gloves, etc. carried under the seat).

Assure choke is completely OFF.

Perform the clear tube test to confirm that the carb fuel levels are within specs.

Good Fortune!

That NGK D9EA is the same plug I see recommended in the book. Just thought I would check as sometimes wrong plugs are at fault; but not this time. Ed

OK good weather and my schedule finally fit together. The spec in the manual says the fuel level should be 1.5 to 3.5 mm below the top of the bottom section of the carb. The left side carb is at the 1.5mm and the right side is at the 3.5mm distance.

I checked the airbox for stray socks, cats or dogs and found nothing. The air cleaner looks clean. Nice whitish yellowish color, no dirt.

I filled the tank up the other day; 2.5 gallons for 110 miles. Mostly running on roads with 35 - 45 mph speed limits.

I am guessing someone may have put in larger jets. I am thinking I might try pod filters. Would they really make much difference in the fuel ratio or is that overexagerated?

Thanks,
HH

Would hotter plugs keep from fouling any better?

If I buy a pair of pod filters, is there any advantage to the spendy K&N brand. Will the cheap filters work as well?

Thanks,
HH

OK I did some experimenting today. I decided to run it without the airfilter to see how it ran. First I took a photo of the plug as it is now - running rich with about 60 miles on them. Here it is...



Then I took out the filter and the air box, I disconnected the rubber tubes between the carbs and airbox - so air is going straight into the carbs. I rode it around a 2 mile loop. It ran HORRIBLE. I did not look at the plugs.

Then I put the rubber tubes back into place. They connect the carbs to the front portion of the airbox. I left the big part of the airbox and the filter off. I ran it around my test loop again. It ran poorly (better than without tubes but still pretty bad.

Then I put the airbox back into place without the filter. So, the only missing is the airfilter. In this state it ran pretty much like it normal. It might have been a little bit slower, less responsive, but not by much. Since I only ran a short loop it is hard to tell for sure which is better: with or without the filter.

So after the damage to my engine running without the filter I then pulled the plug to see what it looked like:



I am color blind and am not much good a reading plugs. How does that look?

After seeing what big difference a filter and airbox can make I really do not want to alter this any at all - no pod filters. I am going to look for a new factory air filter. I hope it helps.

Thanks,
HH

According to kawasaki.com, the air filter element part number 11013-1039 is "active," meaning available through Kawasaki dealerships.

It's also listed at Partzilla.
Likely that other sources could be found by Googling the part number.

Good Fortune!

Yeah, I found Partzilla yesterday on a search. Good prices. The local Kawi dealer is also a nice backcountry road ride from my house. I will call them tomorrow at lunch and see if they stock it.

HH