77 kz650 fuel lines

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29 Mar 2014 07:50 #626973 by eric77kz
77 kz650 fuel lines was created by eric77kz
I'm sure this is an old topic but I can't find it... I removed my gas tank and when I tried to put it back I am lost in all of the lines and where they go. I'm no master mechanic by any means. PLEASE help! Spring is here and I need my bike! Pictures would be great! Thanks for any help.

77 KZ650 C

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29 Mar 2014 07:54 #626974 by Nessism
Replied by Nessism on topic 77 kz650 fuel lines
How about you post some photos about what lines you are concern with, and we will tell you where they go. If you upload the photos to photobucket and link the IMG code in your post, the photo will show up here in high resolution.

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29 Mar 2014 08:50 #626978 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic 77 kz650 fuel lines
Assuming your petcock and carbs are stock 1977 KZ650 items routing the lines is easy. The fuel supply line runs from the petcock to the “T” fitting that is between carbs 2 and 3. There are 2 vent tubes that attach to the upward facing ports on carbs 2 and 4. These tubes should run up and toward the rear of the bike terminating in open air near the top of the airbox. There also are 4 small tubes that are attached to the very bottom of the carb bowls. These are overflow drain tubes and should be routed from the carb bowls down to the space between the rear of the engine and the front of the swing arm pivot and should point down toward the ground so any fuel that may overflow will drip on the ground. There should be a rubber holder (see picture - officially called “clamp, over flow pipe” part number 92037-134) that attaches to the right side of the engine near the rear. The 4 overflow tubes should be routed through this as they head downward. According to Kawasaki.com that part is still available if yours is missing. Ed

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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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29 Mar 2014 08:59 - 29 Mar 2014 09:00 #626981 by eric77kz
Replied by eric77kz on topic 77 kz650 fuel lines
Ed! Thank you soooo much! I actually did it right then!!!! My issue was gas leaking out of the tubes. I thought "Oh no. This cant be good." Like I said not the best mech. Just a weekend DIYer. Love to learn though. You just made my freakin summer! I just posted another topic on carb cleaning if you have some suggestions there. Thank you Thank you. BTW I do still have the part you showed.

77 KZ650 C
Last edit: 29 Mar 2014 09:00 by eric77kz.

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29 Mar 2014 09:08 #626982 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic 77 kz650 fuel lines
If you have fuel coming from the overflow tubes you need to correct the problem. Otherwise, fuel can leak though the carb throats, into the the cylinders, past the rings, and into the crankcase and motor oil.

Fuel coming out of the overflow hose (the little hose on the bottom of the carb) is the common symptom of any of the 3 possible problems described below. Remember - NO SMOKING or other activities that could ignite the fuel while working on carbs!

The float valve is not sealing.
This may be (and probably is) just a matter of some minor dirt in the float valve and is very simple to remedy and can be done with the carbs still on the bike. Turn off fuel; drain carb by loosening big brass screw near bottom; and remove the 4 little screws on the bottom of the carb bowl. This will enable you to remove the carb bowl. You will then see the float. If you carefully remove the float you will see a stubby little needle that mates with a brass orifice; together, these two pieces are the float valve. Assuming there is no obvious damage to the needle or seat, use a Q-tip and some carb cleaner to clean the seat of the orifice and the needle. Be careful not to bend the tang that is attached to the float. This tang is the piece that the bottom of the float valve needle rests upon, and it determines the fuel level in the bowl, so bending it will change the fuel level. With the float valve cleaned it should no longer leak. To prevent a re-occurrence a quality inline fuel filter should be installed between the fuel tank and carbs. If there was damage the needle and seat should be replaced as a set; they are available.

The brass overflow tube inside the carb bowl is damaged
. When you remove the carb bowl you will see a brass tube attached inside and rising toward the top of the bowl. This is the overflow tube and it leads directly to the overflow nipple on the bottom of the carb. Normally, the fuel level within the bowl rises somewhat close to the top of this tube. If the tube becomes cracked or separates from the bottom of the carb bowl fuel will flow through it and out through the overflow hose. Checking the condition of the tube is very easy after you have removed the carb bowl from the carb. Simply hold the bowl level and fill it up near the top of the tube with water or alcohol and see if it leaks. A slight crack in the brass overflow tube can be difficult to find. You can connect a rubber tube to the overflow nipple, fill the bowl with water, put finger over the open end of the brass overflow tube and blow in the rubber end and look for bubbles. If it does the best remedy is to replace it although some folks have found creative ways to repair them.

The fuel level is set too high. This condition occurs when someone has bent the float tang as mentioned above. This condition can be checked using what is referred to as the "clear tube test." The test involves attaching one end of a clear piece of flexible tubing to the carb drain hole and holding the other end of the tube above the bowl/carb joint. When the fuel is turned on it should rise in the tube to a level 2.5 - 4.5 mm below the bowl/carb joint. If the fuel rises higher than that level it may run into the cylinders or over the upper end of the brass overflow inside the carb bowl (mentioned above) in which case it will run out the overflow hose. This condition is corrected by removing the float and gently bending the tang to raise the float valve needle position. Doing this may take several tries before achieving the desired fuel level.

Correcting each of these three conditions involves removing the carb bowl. This task can be done with the carbs still on the bike and can be made easier if a short screwdriver bit is used, and depending on which carb you are fixing a mirror may help you locate the screws on the bottom of the carb bowl (see pics below for what I use) . Also, it is not a bad idea to have a new carb bowl gasket available in case the old gasket is damaged while removing the carb bowl. Ed

Attachment carbscrewdriver.jpg not found


1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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29 Mar 2014 09:18 #626986 by eric77kz
Replied by eric77kz on topic 77 kz650 fuel lines
Wow. Ok. Thank you for the detailed response. I will be sure and update you on my progress.

77 KZ650 C

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29 Mar 2014 11:09 #627001 by Patton
Replied by Patton on topic 77 kz650 fuel lines
Here's stock fitment of the rubber collector on KZ900 LTD.



Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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