Jet kits?

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19 Jan 2014 09:33 - 19 Jan 2014 10:27 #619162 by Serpent7
Replied by Serpent7 on topic Jet kits?
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TexasKZ wrote: Are you sure you have a jetting problem? Why do you want to mess with them?


I don't think I have a jetting problem per say at all. My bike, sputters a little at low RPM's but once it gets above 3000 RPM's it feels like the power just kicks in! I'm pretty sure its just an adjustment issue and not a jetting issue. However, I have 2 sets of carbs, my originals which I had cleaned and a stage 1 jet kit installed, but they are still off the bike. I had ordered another set of carbs that where stock and totally gone through and cleaned (just so I could have an extra set of carbs laying around just in case) that are on the bike now. Because of all my recent upgrades (4 into 1 headers, and pipe, individual k&n air filters, Dyna ignition, Dyna Coil, Sidwinder header, with kerker pipe, no baffle, Dyna wires, New plugs, Synth. lubricants, agm battery) I wanted to take advantage of all the new power, and not have the motor running lean when I crack into it from time, to time. I was under the impression that with all these upgrades, and stock carbs, I would run lean. I need to compensate the added, air, and spark, with added fuel, right?

Just want to be sure, this is what I need to buy?

cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&i...VIP:watchlink:top:en


19 Audi Q5
14 Volkswagen Touareg X
97 Honda Shadow Spirit
79 Kawasaki KZ1000 st
79 Volkswagen Transporter
73 Volkswagen Thing
Last edit: 19 Jan 2014 10:27 by Serpent7.

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19 Jan 2014 10:38 #619168 by Haybus
Replied by Haybus on topic Jet kits?
The sputtering is likely a dirty pilot circuit or low coil voltage or maybe your advancer isn't returning all the way to the stops. Whether you need to change needle jets, jet needles and mains should really be determined after verifying those first three things. There's a decent write up in the file base about how to test lean/rich conditions for each of the carb circuits based on throttle position. Document how you perceive the bike runs at all throttle positions and document your current carb settings (turns, sizes, clip position) before changing anything. Try to fix one issue at a time. If you make too many changes the results may be confusing.

Alan

1976 KZ900 LTD (sort of)
2005 FJR
2009 Hayabusa
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/557845...-streetfighter-build
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19 Jan 2014 18:02 #619224 by Serpent7
Replied by Serpent7 on topic Jet kits?
I'm pretty sure is not the coil. It's a brand new Dyna coil. The original one was shot, and this one runs so much better. This being my first running motorcycle, and every car I've owned has been fuel injected, I know very little about motorcycles, and carbs., so I'm learning. I'll do a search on dirty pilot circuit and, advancer because I have no clue what that is. I think my pump actuator needs to be rebuilt and was wonder if that could be the problem too. For $10, I think I should order them anyway. can't hurt. Wanna make sure they are the right part though.

19 Audi Q5
14 Volkswagen Touareg X
97 Honda Shadow Spirit
79 Kawasaki KZ1000 st
79 Volkswagen Transporter
73 Volkswagen Thing

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19 Jan 2014 20:56 #619246 by Haybus
Replied by Haybus on topic Jet kits?
Unless your shaftie just has way different electronics, hope you meant both coils are new. Even new coils doesn't mean you don't have a problem. Check your battery voltage, then check the voltage at the coils, key on of course. 0.5V drop would be ok, but much more an you need to clean connections and figure out where the drop is coming from. Power to the coils takes a fairly circuitous route through the harness with many opportunities for voltage loss on 35 year old connections.

Your advancer is behind the point/electronic ignition plate on the right side round cover on the engine. It needs lube to work properly. The weight arms should freely rotate to the fully advance position, and should close all the way on their own with the springs. Slowly let them close to make sure nothing is holding them open. They snap closed fairly easy from the wide open position even with weakened springs. But if the springs are fatigued they may not fully close under normal operating conditions.

Hopefully you have, or can find a schematic of your carbs. I missed the pilot jet during my first round of cleaning. Saw it on the schematic, but couldn't see it in the hole in the carbs. Thought maybe the schematic was just generic and didn't apply. Ground down a very small screwdriver and there they were, and plugged to boot. Solved my low throttle response and idle issues.

Alan

1976 KZ900 LTD (sort of)
2005 FJR
2009 Hayabusa
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/557845...-streetfighter-build
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20 Jan 2014 13:00 #619307 by Serpent7
Replied by Serpent7 on topic Jet kits?

Haybus wrote: Unless your shaftie just has way different electronics, hope you meant both coils are new. Even new coils doesn't mean you don't have a problem. Check your battery voltage, then check the voltage at the coils, key on of course. 0.5V drop would be ok, but much more an you need to clean connections and figure out where the drop is coming from. Power to the coils takes a fairly circuitous route through the harness with many opportunities for voltage loss on 35 year old connections.

Your advancer is behind the point/electronic ignition plate on the right side round cover on the engine. It needs lube to work properly. The weight arms should freely rotate to the fully advance position, and should close all the way on their own with the springs. Slowly let them close to make sure nothing is holding them open. They snap closed fairly easy from the wide open position even with weakened springs. But if the springs are fatigued they may not fully close under normal operating conditions.

Hopefully you have, or can find a schematic of your carbs. I missed the pilot jet during my first round of cleaning. Saw it on the schematic, but couldn't see it in the hole in the carbs. Thought maybe the schematic was just generic and didn't apply. Ground down a very small screwdriver and there they were, and plugged to boot. Solved my low throttle response and idle issues.

Alan


Good point! I guess I have some work/learning to do... Funny thing is, I got on the bike just now (about 55 degrees outside at 167 feet above sea level) and let it idle with the choke on for about 5 min. took the choke off and it would idle for about 15 sec then die, but ran it up and down the street and it ran great! Smooth power all the way through acceleration! So I'm not sure what the problem was, or is.

19 Audi Q5
14 Volkswagen Touareg X
97 Honda Shadow Spirit
79 Kawasaki KZ1000 st
79 Volkswagen Transporter
73 Volkswagen Thing

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20 Jan 2014 19:43 - 20 Jan 2014 19:45 #619377 by TexasKZ
Replied by TexasKZ on topic Jet kits?
That last post suggests clogged pilot circuit . The passages are really small,so it doesn't take much to clog them. Once you are 200% sure all carb passages are spotless, do the running tests mentioned above or get a Color Tune set to insure proper mixture. If you wanna go high tech, weld a bung in each exhaust pipe and plug in a 3 band exhaust gas analyzer.

1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
Last edit: 20 Jan 2014 19:45 by TexasKZ.
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24 Jan 2014 16:00 #619921 by lindseyss
Replied by lindseyss on topic Jet kits?
So I just got my dynojet kit and the stage 3 jets say DJ165 so what is the real size?

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24 Jan 2014 16:20 - 24 Jan 2014 16:20 #619924 by sbc1320
Replied by sbc1320 on topic Jet kits?

lindseyss wrote: So I just got my dynojet kit and the stage 3 jets say DJ165 so what is the real size?


forum.highlifter.com/m2519816-print.aspx

1980 KZ1000 LTD-B4(MK II engine) - Progressive suspension, MTC pistons, Dynojet Stage III, all wear items replaced, WFO paint scheme(1978), etc..

Past bikes- 2 1976 Kz900's, 5 1975-76 Honda CB750's, Honda 500 -4, Honda 250, Honda 125, Honda 100, Suzuki RM 250, Honda XL350, Kawasaki KLR 650, etc..
Last edit: 24 Jan 2014 16:20 by sbc1320.

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