Pilot jet with metal plugs?

Hey,

I'm cleaning the carbs on my '82 KZ1000 J2 and the pilot jets have a metal cover instead of the rubber plug I've seen elsewhere. It revolves but does not seem to be threaded, and I'd rather not try to force it out. Whaddyathink?

The metal plug likely has an o'ring.




Pull harder! :woohoo:

Good Fortune!

Wow... On the one carb I started with, that sucker was in there good. I had to pull harder than I would have thought to get it out. The others came out easier.

Of course, I've got a frozen (and now stripped) pilot jet on another carb that's gonna have to get drilled, and a stuck float needle on another. Not that I expected this to be easy.

The_Raven wrote: . . . got a frozen (and now stripped) pilot jet on another carb that's gonna have to get drilled, and a stuck float needle on another. . . .

Would suggest using a reverse-cut drill bit.

The float towers are easily broken.
Would soak for a few days in Kroil, Liquid Wrench, PBBlaster, 50-50 ATF/acetone mixture, or other penetrant.

And put but very light pressure on end of the pin while attempting to extract it.

Have not had occasion to do so, but thinking it could be possible to fashion a brace to hold both towers in position while attempting to press out the pin.

Good Fortune!

Pics from
www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_B...Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf







Am thinking could fashion bracing between the towers (indicated with red lines) to help also support the top tower while tapping out the pin.




Good Fortune!

Yeah, looking at that float pin extraction method. I was hoping not to have to un-rack the carbs and save myself a bench sync, but what the hell, I've got all winter, right? Might as well go whole-hog - replace the plastic fuel tee with metal \m/ so I can replace the fuel line, and do a full-on rebuild and ultrasonic clean.

Yes, Mr. Saunders, I'll be calling!

The_Raven wrote: Yeah, looking at that float pin extraction method. I was hoping not to have to un-rack the carbs and save myself a bench sync . . . .

Meanwhile, if the penetrant hasn't loosened the pin enough for successful removal with gentle tapping ---
Without separating the carbs, and in order to prepare for slightly more vigorous tapping, could perhaps fashion a support under the "bottom" tower by means other than a socket, such as a section of small pipe cut to length needed to brace against another part of the carb assembly, and remembering to also include bracing between the towers.

Would bench sync, regardless.

Good Fortune!

if you are going to do it do it right son.............no half azz job
bench sync..............blah
on bike sync.........................oh ya baby.......makes a big differance

make sure you clean the screens out on fuel inlet on carbs

Grab it with vise grips & pull it out then replace it with rubber ones. My 82 GPZ750 had them too

Patton wrote: Pics from


Am thinking could fashion bracing between the towers (indicated with red lines) to help also support the top tower while tapping out the pin.

Good Fortune!

It's not necessary to support the upper float post, the pin only presses into the one side (next to the head on the pin).