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Disable the vacuum on the petcock?
- AtLarge
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1973 Honda CL70-K3
1975 Kawasaki 350 F9-C
1983 Kawasaki KZ750-K1
1994 BMW K1100RS
2008 Suzuki GSX1300-BKK8 #1120
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- guitargeek
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There's no RES after this, either, just OFF and ON (PRI becomes ON).
1980 KZ750-H1 (slightly altered)
1987 KZ1000-P6 "Ponch"
1979 GS1000 "Dadzuki"
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- AtLarge
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1973 Honda CL70-K3
1975 Kawasaki 350 F9-C
1983 Kawasaki KZ750-K1
1994 BMW K1100RS
2008 Suzuki GSX1300-BKK8 #1120
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- guitargeek
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:laugh: Take the screen / stand pipe out, run a decent inline filter.AtLarge wrote: Losing the reserve would rob a lot of gas. Not such a great mod then.
1980 KZ750-H1 (slightly altered)
1987 KZ1000-P6 "Ponch"
1979 GS1000 "Dadzuki"
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- daveo
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1982 KZ1100-A2
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- koolaid_kid
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Unless Kawasaki petcocks are different from Suzuki petcocks, switching to PRI also uses the RES input feed line, not the ON feed line, so you will use all the fuel in your tank (whether by leaking because you left it on PRI too long, or you ran out of fuel).
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- AtLarge
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guitargeek wrote:
:laugh: Take the screen / stand pipe out, run a decent inline filter.AtLarge wrote: Losing the reserve would rob a lot of gas. Not such a great mod then.
Ah... that's a good idea. But then you would lose the low fuel warning. :S I do use a stone filter and watch my tripodometer so still something to consider...
daveo wrote: When the lever is positioned to PRIME, doesn't that bypass the vacuum system? :whistle:
True but, I want to get rid of the vacuum while being able to absolutely stop the gas from going through. Oh, and I don't want to pay for it. And I still wanted to retain the stock look. :lol: Now that's not asking too much is it? :laugh:
I appreciate the help guys. Right now I have the tank off after tweaking the stock unit AGAIN. Got it to seal well enough for one drop passing through every 12 hours. So, it's better but not perfect. I also adjusted my floats up a notch. I might just see if this gets me by. If not I'll either mod or go aftermarket.
1973 Honda CL70-K3
1975 Kawasaki 350 F9-C
1983 Kawasaki KZ750-K1
1994 BMW K1100RS
2008 Suzuki GSX1300-BKK8 #1120
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- guitargeek
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I still use that second petcock, too. Belt + suspenders, and it works as a theft deterrent, I guess?
1980 KZ750-H1 (slightly altered)
1987 KZ1000-P6 "Ponch"
1979 GS1000 "Dadzuki"
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- martin_csr
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On my 81 650-CSR the petcock can be converted by installing the tap lever & tap lever cover 180o from the normal position, but this way the end of the lever has to be cut off a little to avoid contacting the tank. There will be ON, PRI/RES, & OFF. Prime & Reserve would be the same thing, either way uses the RES fuel pickup
(81 KZ650-CSR petcock converted: ON = lever pointing up, PRI/RES = lever pointing right, OFF = lever pointing left).
New Kawasaki parts. A genuine oem diaphragm assy is only about $12 at places like RonAyers.com.
The rubber fuel tap gasket is less than 3 bucks.
K&L. I like having the vacuum actuated device. Mine was in good condition, so I rebuilt it w K&L parts
from Z1Enterprises.com - K&L stuff is made in Japan & oem quality (imho)(some aftermarket kits are junk, probably because they are not made in Japan). I expect to install a new diaphragm kit every 2-3 years.... no big deal or expense... it's a wear item - the thing gets flexed every time you start & stop the engine, so of course it will eventually fail.
Rebuilding. Disassemble & clean the petcock. Inspect it to see if it's worn or corroded or something.
If it's in good condition, you should be able to rebuild it w new rubber parts - you may only need a diaphragm kit.
If you decide to rebuild it, buff the surfaces w steel wool or brass wool, especially where the diaphragm o-ring contacts the petcock body - that orifice needs to be polished smooth so that the o-ring forms a good seal.
Manual fuel valve.
If the bolt hole spacing is 34mm, here's a topic w some options: KZR topic - Manual fuel valve option
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