Top carb sync screw "position" reference needed..
- Driggs
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
Rebuilt a set of used carbs and plopped em on my running GPz550 so that I can take my stock ones off and rebuild those and get them sent off for cleaning and painting..
The ones that I got used came off a running bike and everything on them is perfect.
I think I am having an issue getting them to sync up properly and looking at the top sync screws Ive noticed that they are all in different postions. Is there a universal starting point for these? Like the general 1 3/8 turns out on the air screw?
My battery died on me so I have to get my charger.. i got it to run but two carbs were way off compared to the others and after an adjustment (very slight) my battery died.. just wanted to get a rough starting point for those top screws.
Thanks!
83 Audi urquattro, 84 Audi 4ks quattro, 82 Audi 4k diesel, 74 Norton Commando, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Mac, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Kerker
gpZ Pictures on flickr
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Driggs
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
83 Audi urquattro, 84 Audi 4ks quattro, 82 Audi 4k diesel, 74 Norton Commando, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Mac, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Kerker
gpZ Pictures on flickr
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650ed
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 15344
- Thank you received: 2829
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Driggs
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
83 Audi urquattro, 84 Audi 4ks quattro, 82 Audi 4k diesel, 74 Norton Commando, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Mac, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Kerker
gpZ Pictures on flickr
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- loudhvx
- Offline
- KZr Legend
- Posts: 10868
- Thank you received: 1616
There's a bunch of manuals and other important KZ550 info in my signature you may want to look through.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650ed
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 15344
- Thank you received: 2829
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Driggs
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
I have the haynes, kawasaki and clymer and i seem to be stuck with all three..
my old set of working (albeit needing tuning) carbs are at the ultrasonic cleaners and im pretty sure hes ripped them apart.
Correct me if I have the procedure wrong.
-undo idle screw, then screw in until it touches, then 1/4 turn more
-adjust slides/sync screw to .5-1.0mm of space between bottom of the float and bottom of carb bore
Should I use the idle screw to get the .5 - 1.0mm clearance?
83 Audi urquattro, 84 Audi 4ks quattro, 82 Audi 4k diesel, 74 Norton Commando, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Mac, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Kerker
gpZ Pictures on flickr
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Driggs
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
83 Audi urquattro, 84 Audi 4ks quattro, 82 Audi 4k diesel, 74 Norton Commando, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Mac, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Kerker
gpZ Pictures on flickr
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 650ed
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 15344
- Thank you received: 2829
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Driggs
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
83 Audi urquattro, 84 Audi 4ks quattro, 82 Audi 4k diesel, 74 Norton Commando, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Mac, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Kerker
gpZ Pictures on flickr
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- loudhvx
- Offline
- KZr Legend
- Posts: 10868
- Thank you received: 1616
Driggs wrote: ...Correct me if I have the procedure wrong.
-undo idle screw, then screw in until it touches, then 1/4 turn more
-adjust slides/sync screw to .5-1.0mm of space between bottom of the float and bottom of carb bore
Should I use the idle screw to get the .5 - 1.0mm clearance?
The floats have nothing to do with setting the slide height. I think you meant "slide".
You don't usually have to mess with the idle screw, (that's the big knob in the middle of the rack), to set the slides equal by eyeball. You can just hold the carbs up to a light and see the sliver of light coming through. Just match all four to the same sliver.
The throttle stop screw is one of the small set screws near the #1 carb. It is the one closest to the outlet of the carbs. The one further away from the outlet is the fast-idle set screw.
If the setscrew is out to where the locknut no longer tightens against the belcrank, then the setscrew is too far out. The slide is all the way maxed out upward before the setscrew comes out that far. Set all four to the middle of their operating range before trying to bench sync.
If for some reason, that one slide is all the way down, even though the setscrew is all they way up (and partially out), then someone may have taken it apart and lost the spring, or put it back together wrong. There is no real reason to ever take apart the adjustment mechanism. It is also very tricky to get it back together correctly. There are several little pieces that all need to go together while spring loaded, and it's easy for the spring to shoot off into space.
You might be able to inspect the mechanism, and compare it to another one, if you remove the throttle return spring and open the throttle all the way.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Driggs
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
loudhvx wrote:
Driggs wrote: ...Correct me if I have the procedure wrong.
-undo idle screw, then screw in until it touches, then 1/4 turn more
-adjust slides/sync screw to .5-1.0mm of space between bottom of the float and bottom of carb bore
Should I use the idle screw to get the .5 - 1.0mm clearance?
The floats have nothing to do with setting the slide height. I think you meant "slide".
You don't usually have to mess with the idle screw, (that's the big knob in the middle of the rack), to set the slides equal by eyeball. You can just hold the carbs up to a light and see the sliver of light coming through. Just match all four to the same sliver.
The throttle stop screw is one of the small set screws near the #1 carb. It is the one closest to the outlet of the carbs. The one further away from the outlet is the fast-idle set screw.
If the setscrew is out to where the locknut no longer tightens against the belcrank, then the setscrew is too far out. The slide is all the way maxed out upward before the setscrew comes out that far. Set all four to the middle of their operating range before trying to bench sync.
If for some reason, that one slide is all the way down, even though the setscrew is all they way up (and partially out), then someone may have taken it apart and lost the spring, or put it back together wrong. There is no real reason to ever take apart the adjustment mechanism. It is also very tricky to get it back together correctly. There are several little pieces that all need to go together while spring loaded, and it's easy for the spring to shoot off into space.
You might be able to inspect the mechanism, and compare it to another one, if you remove the throttle return spring and open the throttle all the way.
I meant the slide not the float :whistle: :side:
I for whatever reason was thinking i needed to adjust the slides on the intake side and not the engine side.. thats where I ran into my problem.. DOH.
83 Audi urquattro, 84 Audi 4ks quattro, 82 Audi 4k diesel, 74 Norton Commando, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Mac, 81 Kawasaki GPz 550 Kerker
gpZ Pictures on flickr
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.