Danger's Ongoing Carb Thread

Thanks man. I won't be chaning the exhaust, for there are no leaks, and I like the way it sounds. I just need a good barrier between the open air and my carbs. I figure if the pods do mess with my mixture, I'll just order a kit from jetsrus. They appear to be pretty on-the-ball with customer needs.

Sorry fpr the long time no show. I've been saving up for parts!

Here it goes.

After purchasing k&n filters, installing them on the freshly cleaned carbs, and putting them on the bike, with a new fuel line and filter- the bike started today with no choke, idled at 1.5k rpm, and started to bogg once it got warm. A little play with the choke got the rpms up for a little bit, and then it bogged and died completely. It started a couple more times under choke, bogged and died, and then refused to start all together. I did notice a small fuel leak from the left carb bowl, probably through the warped oring,but once it was running, it stopped and never came back.

There are four things I think it might be, but any guidence is appreciated.

1: In doing other electrical work, I have charged and killed my battery several times. So I could need a new battery.
2: I didn't do a good enough job cleaning tye carbs, and have.to do it again.
3: There is a significant leaking of air into the carb bowls through the simi-shotty orings.
4: I need to restrict more airflow through the pods.

Good starts?

Quick update.

After fully charging the battery, the bike wouldn't start at all. Choke, no choke- no dice.

Any suggestions?

I think I got it.

I checked the float level today, and it was too low on the left carb and WAY too low on the right. Something must've happened to change it when I broke them apart again to clean them. I've ordered new orings, amd shall wait for them to arrive before making any adjuatments.

I'll keep ya'll posted.

With some carbs it's possible to inadvertently install the floats upside down.
If not already done, would double-check float installation.

Removal and replacement of a float usually doesn't alter the pre-existing tang setting. Hence, however the tang adjustment had been set before dis-assembly should remain exactly the same after re-assembly.

Good Fortune!

Good point! I may have installed the one float upside-down... The other float seems to be reading about where it was pre-disassembly. All-in-all, I'm fairly confident that once I get the float levels right, the bike will be pretty reliable. -I hope-

In truth, this whole situation got me pretty beat-up yesterday. Now, all I can do is wait for the spare o-rings to show up.

UPDATE!!

So, after getting the new o-rings, I pulled the floats, cleaned-out the needle reciever, checked the level, pulled the float, bent the tang, checked the level - add continuum. After getting the proper float height dialed in juuust right, I started cold with choke, and it idled at around 1.5k rpms until it got warmish, then shot up to 4-5k rpms. Once I felt that the bike was good and warmed, I backed slowly off the choke and fought it down to about 3k rpms. It statrted dropping from there with no choke-diddling whatsoever, and eventually chugged out. Whole experience lasted around 3 minutes. Afterwards, when trying to start it again, my last attempt ended with a large pop-like crack from the engine/carb area a bit of white smoke coming from my pods.

I have no idea what I'm doing.

danger_bandito wrote: UPDATE!!

So, after getting the new o-rings, I pulled the floats, cleaned-out the needle reciever, checked the level, pulled the float, bent the tang, checked the level - add continuum. After getting the proper float height dialed in juuust right, I started cold with choke, and it idled at around 1.5k rpms until it got warmish, then shot up to 4-5k rpms. Once I felt that the bike was good and warmed, I backed slowly off the choke and fought it down to about 3k rpms. It statrted dropping from there with no choke-diddling whatsoever, and eventually chugged out. Whole experience lasted around 3 minutes. Afterwards, when trying to start it again, my last attempt ended with a large pop-like crack from the engine/carb area a bit of white smoke coming from my pods.

I have no idea what I'm doing.

Would check and adjust valve clearances as needed to bring within specs.

Would check ignition timing with a timing light to assure the advancer is functioning properly by quickly moving back and forth as rpm is varied by blipping the throttle.

The advancer may require lube and possibly both cleaning and lube.

Usually may access the weight arm pivots for lube through the timing window.

The advancer should not look anything like this:




Lube weight arm pivots --



Good Fortune!

You're my hero, Patton!

The cover over the advane is held tight by some rusty-ass fasteners. I've been soaking them in LW for a couple of days, and they're still in there pretty good. Might have to stretch my budget and get some Kroil...

So, I pulled the cover off the advance, and the entire inside of the chamber, andvance included, was covered in HEAVY rust. Of the two screws holding the pickup coil plate in place, one of them is EXTREMELY stripped. I hit the two with LW, and am letting them soak, and will try the rubber band trick to remove the stripped screw. As for the timing advancer, how am I supposed to clean it once I get it out? Is there any way to replace it?

danger_bandito wrote: So, I pulled the cover off the advance, and the entire inside of the chamber, andvance included, was covered in HEAVY rust. Of the two screws holding the pickup coil plate in place, one of them is EXTREMELY stripped. I hit the two with LW, and am letting them soak, and will try the rubber band trick to remove the stripped screw. As for the timing advancer, how am I supposed to clean it once I get it out? Is there any way to replace it?

I called Z1 Enterprise a couple of months ago for this. You can get an advancer replacement for, brace yourself, $120.00(price I was given for my 77 kz1000). The advancer is serviceable. I had the same issue. I removed it completely and disassembled it(do not damage the springs you can not replace them you can only buy the entire advancer). My advancer has C-clips , removed those after removed the springs. That should allow you to remove the weights. After disassembly I sanded, polished, lubed, reassembled and lubed again. Since then I can say the bike has never acceled smother. And the idle is spot on.

Good luck my friend I hope it all works out. Sounds like you are on the right track.

I know it's a little early for this but it's 4AM and I'm feelin' sappy...

Since this IS my first motorcycle, and every turn I take seems to lead to a dead end, I have been stressing myself out consistently. You guys, here on KZrider, have helped me so much, I can't even begin to say thank you. All of you have brought me a piece of mind, every time I hit a snag, that I wouldn't even try to put a price on.

Seriously, everyone. Thank you so much, so far!