found problem but

the extra set of carbs i have has 14 holes instead of 10 holes in the needle jet holder. can i just put one in a carb, or 2, or all 4 and try and tune her. Or should i really try and find an exact one? obviously the bent one is the stock holder with less holes. probably also the culprit of my hanging of the rpms, if not let me know what this would cause other than the valve staying wide open. I also have a couple misc. questions. recommendation of oil for the clutch, and recomended lube or grease you use on your timing advancer. actual make of product please. hey thanks guys

oh and is this common to see these bent????? i feel like this is a big mystery how this happened.

If that bent needle jet isn't the cause of your hanging idle speed, then it is so horribly worn out on the inside that it needs to be replaced. That is to say that the fit of your jet needle to needle jet should be very close. If the needle jet is visibly bent, there is no way it could be working properly.

I can't begin to speculate how it got so bent, but replacing it with a different needle jet will only cause different tuning problems. If it were me, I would source the correct, new, OEM needle jets and jet needles and get those carbs right. There should be an alpha- numeric part number inscribed on the original needle jets. Despite whatever trauma caused the bending, needle jets get worn from normal use and should be replaced. Think about that needle as your carbs are working. It raises and lowers as you change throttle positions. The air flow constantly pulls the needle to one side of the hole in the jet. As the needle moves up and down it acts like a file on the edge of the hole. Over time the holes in your needle jets become oblong and then you have incurable midrange tuning issues.

wow this is awesome. nothing inscribed on all four the jets, and i cant find these things anywhere online. not even jets r us.com.......Also any advice for the 2nd part of my question anyone? what oil you use and grease type for the advancer

Agreed, the clearance between the needle and the emulsion tube is such, that with it bent like that, there is no way that it should be operating, the needle should be binding inside the tube, they must be really badly worn, in which case I suspect all four are in a similar state of wear.
Your only option is to replace all four, or as testarossa said, you will never get the mid range dialled in right, and the frustration will take years off your life.
Have you tried Z1? Really helpful bunch of guys there and knowledgeable too.
Looks like someone tried to hammer it out, good thing they never landed up cracking the carb body.
Rotella oil is good for bikes and does not affect the operation of the clutch.
My bike is a shaft, so I have a tube of Honda Moly Lube that I use on the rear wheel splines, and i find it really good for things like the timing advancer, as it is not too thick and does not thicken with time or cold temperatures. About $10 a tube at your local Honda dealer.

On the advancer you can use white lithium grease, but like Flyboy I use moly. I use Dow Corning Molykote GN paste (see pic). Keep in mind that the grease goes on the shaft that the cam rides on.


On the outer surface of the advancer cam (the surface that the points rubbing blocks ride against) and on the felt wick you should use grease specifically made for ignition cams - here are 2. Ed
www.partstrain.com/store/?PN=4792&N=0


www.lufteknic.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc...gory_Code=lubricants

Until the highfalutin stuff arrives, may apply a drop of oil on the felt pad, if the pad's still there.





Good Fortune!

yea mine doesnt look anything like that patton which on the spectre, there arent even timing slides to turn it clock wise or counter clock.

Oops, sorry about getting side-tracked about lubing a points cam.

A mechanical advancer may be lubed with a drop of motor oil on the weight-arm pivots.





The pivots may likely be accessed through the timing inspection window.

Good Fortune!