vacum lines

I have already asked about jetting these things and am still having trouble but I was wondering if I have the vacume lines hooked up correctly. I do not have the air box anymore velocity stacks.


Also its an 82 KZ 750 CSR-M


Here are some pictures. Basically i have the carbs hooked together and the tee hooked to them and that is going to the petcock. Will this work correctly for me??

The following link to a section at wiredgeorge's site:
www.wgcarbs.com//index.php?option=com_co...sk=view&id=Itemid=93

Includes the following:

BS34 Carburetor Assembly from 1982 KZ750M1 CSR

1982-83 KZ750 Twins

For some reason, Kawasaki didn't sell a KZ750 twin model in the US in 1981. In 1982, they marketted the KZ750M1 CSR model and switched the carburetors from the BS38 assmebly that had been used on the KZ750B model family to the BS34 assembly shown above. The BS34 assembly weighs about 4 pounds while the BS38 weighs in at over 6 pounds. The BS34 assembly shares many of the internal and external parts used across the KZ line from the KZ750, GPz750, KZ1000P and all other KZ1000 models plus the KZ1100. I suspect that the move was made to standardize parts. Connecting these carburetors is fairly simple. There is no overflow system so no hoses need to be connected to the drain nipples. There are two tees between the carburetors in the picture. The lower tee is the fuel inlet. The upper tee is venting. This fitting should have a hose connected and run over the swingarm. In the event the bike overturns, gas will come out of the vent fitting and you don't want it wetting you if you are under the motorcycle. Note that the vent tee seems to have a brass fitting. This fitting was installed as a repair as the tee is made of all plastic and the nipple where the hose is to be connected was broken off. The brass piece in the picture is a repair.

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Good Fortune!

If needed, either of these links should produce download of an KZ750 twin FSM (Factory Service Manual) --

bublicpucket.s3.amazonaws.com/Manuals/ka...n76fullwith78sup.pdf

jpavlov.files.wordpress.com/2008/12/kawk...76fullwith78sup5.pdf

Good Fortune!

Look at the carburetor assy diagram for your bike at Kawasaki.com or Partzilla

The fuel tee is ref # 92005.
Usually, the fuel nipple matches a nipple on the petcock (the size).

The vent tee is ref # 92005A & connects to port "A" indicated in the drawing.
It sits higher up on the carbs than the fuel tee. Vent tubing is typically routed rearward of the engine, forward of the swing arm, and away from the chain & mufflers, and it should be open to atmosphere.

The vacuum ports are higher up & on the engine side of the carbs (& not visible in the drawing).
They are usually smaller than the fuel nipples, so there should be a smaller vac nipple on the petcock.

If your bike has the clean air system stuff, look at the airbox diagram to see how to connect the vac line for the petcock. The petcock vac tubing is ref # 92059 that connects to a T-fitting - the one thats kinda nearer to the middle of the drawing.

Thanks for the really good info. I got it all figured out.
But now it's running really high rpms at idle up around 5000 how can I adjust this? My idle screw is all the way out and the cable is not binding up or sticking.

A "racing idle" is sometimes caused by an air leak, which can be through old cracked worn out carb holders, or perhaps a loose clamp that attaches the carb onto the carb holder.

If not already done, would perform the spray test all around the carb holders while the engine is running. Can use WD40, which if ingested through an air leak will cause a change in rpm and produce smoke from the exhaust.

Absent an air leak, failure to idle down might result from needing adjustments to the throttle butterflies, perhaps closing them slightly further.

Good Fortune!

Thanks it was the diaphragm it was folded over and the slide was not moving. Went to ride it for the first time in months and the clouds opened up and are now pouring rain. Just my luck.