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KZ 1100 backfires and sputters
- trojan
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Seems like an air leak-but as far as i checked there is none...What could be the problem?
Thanks!!
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- Patton
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Backfires through the carbs when cold, but not when warm?trojan wrote: So my KZ 1100 1981 is backfiring from the exhaust + carbs and sputters when cold. When warmed up runs great. Cabs were cleaned, synched, boots seem to be in good shape (sprayed starter fluid oround and nothing happened.
Seems like an air leak-but as far as i checked there is none...What could be the problem?
Thanks!!
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- trojan
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- trojan
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Thanks for the advice!!
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- 650ed
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Having soaked mine for 3 days with Kroil and using a JIS type bit my carb holder screws came out very easily.
Kroil can be ordered directly from the manufacturer or can often be found at gun shows or some gun shops. I ordered mine online. This is what I use as shown on their order form: Kroil 1/2 pint (8 oz.) can - $9.25 ea. Here’s their link:
www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html
Regarding the JIS screwdriver bits – if you haven’t seen the thread below you may want to take a look at it as it describes how to modify Phillips bits to match JIS screws – it’s very easy to do and well worth the effort.
kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget...ewdriver-tips#532335
Here’s what the Kroil can looks like. A half pint can will last forever; no need to buy a larger size. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Pindar
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(Had to file the head with metal saw and wedge a large flat head to get it off.)
I've replaced them all with black Allen (Hex) 6M x 16mm, and placed washers to pad the screws a little. Length of screw should be between 14mm and 16mm as far as I can tell.
Love the Allen screws. I'm trying to replace all engine screws to Allen as I go on. Not very authentic but mechanically awesome!
Cheers
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- mopguy
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I have a 1980 Kawasaki KZ750 Ltd. I bought new. I recently managed to get it out of my garage after 28 years and put it on the road again (2010). I feel like a kid all over again. Since I have acquired 3 78 KZ1000 Ltd, 1 1981 KZ1000 Ltd, and another 1980 KZ750 Ltd. Love the LTD's.
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- KZB2 650
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mopguy wrote: I used anticease on mine, hopefully it makes it easier for the next time.
They recommend using blue lock tight on these in the manual. Plugs, valve cover bolts, side cover allens etc love anti sieze but not on these.
1978 KZ650 b-2
700cc Wiseco kit 10 to 1.
1980 KZ750 cam, ape springs, stock clutch/ Barnett springs.
Vance and Hines Header w/ comp baffle and Ape pods, Dyna S and green coils, copper wires.
29MM smooth bores W/ 17.5 pilots, 0-6s and 117.5 main
16/42 gearing X ring chain and alum rear JT sprocket.
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- 650ed
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KZB2 650 wrote:
They recommend using blue lock tight on these in the manual. Plugs, valve cover bolts, side cover allens etc love anti sieze but not on these.
What - are you kidding??? The Kawasaki Service Manuals I have are VERY SPECIFIC about which fasteners get a locking agent (loctite) and those manuals DO NOT recommend using locktight of any type on any of the fasteners you listed - DON'T DO IT! That is really bad advice!
What manual do you have that recommends using locktight on any of those fasteners??? Please show me the text. Ed
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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