Is it Spark or is it Fuel?

coffee_brake wrote: ... I got resistor type plugs because the new plug wires and caps are NOT resistor type. I didn't put the new wires and caps on there....

Boo on me :ohmy: for erroneously thinking the above meant that new non-resistor items had been obtained but not yet installed.

Patton wrote: Resistor type spark plugs should not be used with resistor caps...[Blah - Blah - Blah]....

coffee_brake wrote: ...Please note that I said the plug caps are NOT resistor type.

Thanks for clarifying that I didn't put the new wires and caps on there means the "new" items were already installed by somebody else.

Good Fortune!

Thanks all!

It may be a little while before I can do ALL the tests the bike needs, because there are several other motorcycles in the stable in need of attention as well, but in the meantime I'm able to ride the KZ, if I don't twist the throttle too much.

I certainly appreciate the help, very much.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationReading the manual regarding how to adjust the valves, it calls for a tool to lift the cams up and hold them there. The number is 57001-113.

Will this tool by Motion Pro do the same job?



Obviously I'll pull the valve cover and measure the clearance before buying any shims or tools, I'm just trying to wrap my head around the job.

My old Vmax was shim-over-bucket, so this at least seems a little familiar.

May do a search in KZr forums for "batwing" which should produce the following info (and more):

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The MotionPro "batwing" tool (or Kawasaki "special" tool), is used when changing shims located on top of the bucket (over bucket shims), where the shims are visible under the cam lobe, and where cam removal isn't necessary to access the shims.
The tool holds the bucket down allowing space between the shim and cam lobe so the shim may be removed and replaced.
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I toss the lever and use only the batwing part of the Motion Pro tool, carefully hand-rotating the crankshaft via the 17mm fake nut, letting the cam lobe push and hold the valve down while manipulating the batwing into position, whereby the batwing will hold the valve down as the cam lobe is then turned away from the valve.
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With the Motion Pro tool, I ignore the "lever" and use only the "batwing" by depressing the bucket with the cam lobe (instead of the lever), then holding the batwing in position to catch the bucket edge while turning the cam lobe away.

After replacing the shim, turn the lobe to depress the bucket and allow removal of the batwing.

Requires a little fiddling to get the knack, but then it's quick and easy with just the batwing.
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A little fiddling while holding the batwing in position with the cam lobe holding the bucket down, and carefully rotating the crankshaft (by hand with the 17mm "nut") will permit the batwing to catch the edge of the bucket and hold it down while the cam lobe turns away allowing removal/replacement of the shim.

Be extra careful when rotating the crankshaft to assure the other valve in the same cylinder is NOT opening so as to contact the valve being held down by the batwing. Don't want both valves open at the same time. In other words, assure the batwing isn't holding one valve open while the other cam is opening the other valve. The objective being to prevent bending a valve.
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Which tool -- MotionPro "batwing" or oem Kawasaki style?

Batwing ends appear similar, but are different. Could try using the other end. Don't use the pry tool at all.

Rotate crankshaft lobe to push valve down. Insert batwing and hold it in position. While holding the batwing in position, carefully rotate crankshaft to turn cam lobe away from valve so that bucket is held down by the batwing. The batwing barely contacts only the lip of the bucket, without touching the shim, which allows shim removal from the bucket recess.
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Good Fortune!

OK so I CAN use the Motion Pro tool.
I assume I will understand why nobody uses the lever soon enough. :dry:

Thanks!

All valves are in spec. Waiting on a new head cover gasket now.

I don't know if it was mentioned, but when the air suction system fails, it will often lead to huge backfires in the exhaust. Just plug the ports on the top of the valve cover and pull the octopus from above the motor and plug any port that was connected to it.

I agree that it should be closed off. When I pulled it yesterday, the places where it plugs in were sloppy-fit with age, and would understandably cause an intake leak. It's not backfiring much, just popping a lot on decel...it even pops a little at low throttle input.

How does everyone else cap 'em off?

Here is one way. Hose from each side to the other.



Good luck,
Jim

Ha! That's the best plan, I'll just do that.