Deleting airbox

Going to use pod filters. What do I do the air flow hose that goes from old airbox to vacuum switch valve? Also is there anything else I have to do besides rejet?

If you are keeping the emissions system, then put a breather filter on the inlet to the air switch.

You should put a breather on the crankcase vent too.

Also, we could help better if you had your year and model in your signature.

Sig fixed... My apologies. Yes, do plan on getting the breather for crankcase. Saw elsewhere that I can delete the whole "clean air system". Am I asking for problems?

Koze wrote: Sig fixed... My apologies. Yes, do plan on getting the breather for crankcase. Saw elsewhere that I can delete the whole "clean air system". Am I asking for problems?

The only problem is what to do with all of the junk you pull off from above the motor.

I will try to post some photos of the latest, simplest, cheapest ($ 0.65) way to block off the valve cover ports.

You can just run a hose from one reed cap to the other and cap off vacuum ports on carbs. Quickest fix I know of. Threaded plugs in reed caps are a cleaner look tho

Koze wrote: Going to use pod filters. What do I do the air flow hose that goes from old airbox to vacuum switch valve? Also is there anything else I have to do besides rejet?

This is like saying "so then all I have to do is recalibrate the influx distribution module to resonate with the red spectrum without destroying the containment field and turning the whole universe into a matter sucking hole before midnight tomorrow. With a paperclip, a small cylinder and a ball of twine."

Just kidding but you have searched the archives on "Pods vs airbox" right. Eyes wide open.

These are just 1/2" copper caps for water pipe. They are 33 cents each. The trick is to file the port mouth a little bit to give the caps a way to start. Then press very evenly with a good back support. My buddy and I did it with 4 hands which really helps. We also heated the cap with a propane torch just for a few seconds. They pressed right on, and are super tight. You will need a bearing press or a smooth vise or a really good C clamp.

on my 750 I got rid of all the emissions stuff too. went to the auto parts store and got some rubber caps and popped them on the valve cover holes. the valves have a suction so I didn't zip tie them or anything. as for the pods, it's best imo to not try and over engineer an already good design for being stock. the constant velocity carbs run best in a vacuum environment. do what feels good for you though. but always keep in mind the parts intended purpose with the way it should be operated for optimum performance.

The reason we went with copper is because the rubber caps tend to crack in a matter of a few months of hot weather.

Sweet!

Thanks for all the thoughts and info. We'll see what happens

:blush: