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Kz1000j3, bike occasionally stalls when stopping
- Vintage3
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- Patton
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- KZr Legend
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Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Vintage3
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- MFolks
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Read this:
Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics
1. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. It can be purchased at most Radio Shack Stores or any electronic supply places. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).
2. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.
3. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.
4. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.
5. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.
6. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.
7. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.
8. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.
9. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this.
10. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.
11. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!
12. If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you, along with boating supply stores.
13. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.
14. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt
15. Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.
16. If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation. Inspect all heavy duty battery cables and the smaller wire terminations(Bullet Connectors), for failed crimps, and those used in the electrical connectors, as they can fail over time.
17. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.
18. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.
20. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.
21. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.
22. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.
I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........
“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “
From a forum member at www.kzrider.com
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- Old Man Rock
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When the Kerker went on, re-jet...?
Pods or Air box...?
Sounds similar to a situation I encounter during runs up in higher elevation, have to lean the pilots ~ 1/2 turn for idle....
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Vintage3
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- Patton
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Could experiment by turning each carb mixture adjustment screw out counter-clockwise 1/4~1/2 turn, which slightly enrichens the pilot circuit mixtures.Vintage3 wrote: The problem did not exist pre kerker with Mac 4 one pipe or carb rebuild. When the kerker went on no resetting was done. Air box with new oem filter is installed. I have been told by others it is just an air screw adjustment as mentioned by old man rock.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- Vintage3
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Just an update on this. I had the fuel line replaced and one carb was slightly out of sync and adjusted. I have also put in Motul fuel system cleaner (have only worked through about a 1/4 tank at half strength). The problem is much better and only seems to present itself now at warm up. In other words, I start the bike, let it idle for 2-3 minutes and then for the first few stops the idle drops down below 1000rpms so I blip it to prevent a stall. After about 5-10 minutes of riding it goes away. All this said, I have read in the Clymer manual it takes about 10 minutes before the bike is fully warm (and for maintenance until that time frame no carb adjustments should be made). Reading between the lines, I am assuming this is all normal?
One other question;and this may be related. My use of the enrichener (choke) is limited (short -about 10-15 seconds) at start up. When I push it in it idles fine but at about 500rmp. Over time; and usually up until I start riding within the 2-3 minutes, the idle rises to normal after the enrichener is closed. This is at about 20 degrees Celcius. Should I leave it out longer? Will this foul the plugs? What would the impact be of leaving it our longer have on the pilot jets which may be related to this?
Again thanks for your comments.....
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