ZG1200 Persistant Fuel Leak: Carb Overflows

HolyKAW wrote: Shoot those links were no good

American Voyager Association tips (fuel pump points near the bottom of the page)

Kawasaki Voyager XII manual

I just tried each of these links, and both worked as expected.

Good Fortune!

[quote="HolyKAW" post=562652

When i got the fuel pump out and got a proper look at it, however, I realized it is not the stock fuel pump. Someone replaced the stock 4 wire fuel pump with a 2 wire fuel pump, and i think they may have messed up the wiring.




It is my understanding that the fuel pump should be off unless Im punching the starter button or the bike or it is running, correct?

But, would that explain my carb overflow situation, or as Motor Head said, should the float valves take care of the excess fuel delivery despite the pump acting up?

The way its shaping up, I think I have at least 3 issues to address
1. Starter solenoid, motor, or circuit
2. Fuel pump wired backwards?
3. Float valves/seats not sealing up properly

I found a PDF of the service manual here[/quote]

Your issues are:
1. Wrong fuel pump. The substitute pump is putting out too much pressure. Get a stock pump in there and your fuel issues will most likely disappear.

2. Starter, solenoid, motor or relay. Start with the easy/cheap stuff. Check the solenoid with a multimeter for continuity. Check the relay. There are procedures in the service manual. If those are good, remove the starter motor and check that on the bench.

There are some Voyager owners who have used a substitute pump and gotten away with it, but not without difficulty. Your pump is not a good substitute. To check your float valves for leakage, feed the carbs with a temporary gravity feed tank. I bet they don't leak. Try to get the old pump from your friend and do the points clean up on it. When they go bad it is usually the points getting funky.

I can't tell from here but the PO may have messed with the starting relay when he installed the pump.

If the solenoid is shot, it can be replaced with a unit from the lawn tractor industry. Take the old one to a small engine shop and ask for one "like this". You will most likely have to modify the mounting of it. Bolt centers and such.

If the relay is toast, there is a Toyota part # that is a direct replacement.

Likewise the fuel filter. There is a John Deere # that does the job.

These substitutes will save you some money. If you cant find them, Kawasaki has what you need.

I don't think there is a substitute for the starter motor. But maybe just brushes will fix it if it is bad.

TOMW Wrote:
"
Your issues are:
1. Wrong fuel pump. The substitute pump is putting out too much pressure. Get a stock pump in there and your fuel issues will most likely disappear."

Sounds like a Fuel Injection pump could have been fitted by mistake. Which would supply around 90 up PSI without a regulator. WAY to much for a set of carbs.
Tom has it Pegged.

The Latest Float Valve part # from Kawasaki is 16030-1007 which fits about all of the bikes with the Keihin Carb, big list.
Be careful with the Gasoline that has gone into the cylinders. I'd remove the plugs, make sure there IS NO SPARK at the coils, un plug the wires to the coils as well as unhooking the spark plug wires. Turn over the motor with the starter and be prepared for fuel to spray out of all of the cylinders, Cover it with a towel or something. Again Be sure there is NO Ignition source. You will also be looking at an oil change as the fuel would have run down between the ring gaps, ending up in the crankcase.
A Garden hose on standby, and do it out doors. Just in case.

Before pulling the plugs, blow out the wells they are in. Leaves and dirt accumulate in there and will drop into the cyllinders if not cleaned out. I would suck the gas out of the cylinders before cranking it. Be aware there are 2 oil drain plugs plus the filter to remove. Fill with 3 qts 22 oz of oil. No more.

I really appreciate the pointers!! Following TomW's advice I have since purchased a stock fuel pump off ebay. It read "tested and working," but you never can tell with those ebay jobs. I hooked it up and punched the starter to see if it really works, and nothing. Cleaned the points and tried again, still nada.

If I understand correctly, when I press the starter button the fuel pump should kick on and the starter should turn over. Because neither of these things are happening, am I right to assume that TomW was probably right in his suspicion that the P/O has messed up the relay? Would that affect both the fuel pump and the starter or just the starter?

If anyone could help me with any instructions on how to go about testing the relay I would be so grateful! I looked in the manual but it wasn't much help. This bike is such a nightmare i can't even locate the relay in all the mess. Where is it? Do I have to remove the front fairing to get to it?

Here's the diagram/instructions from the manual I have

Your relay is easy to test for function. If it is as in your post picture, then it has 4 wires?
Do you see #'s at the terminals? Such as 30, 87, 86, 86b? If so 30 will be Battery + hot. 87 Is power going out to the pump, once the relay is energized. the two 86 terminals are the control for the relay to switch, one hot when you push the start button, the other ground. What they are telling you in the manual for Ohms test is to check to see if the relay closes and making contact at the set of contact points inside, 87 & 30. The problem with the Ohms test is that is carries no real load, so its not a very good test. You are better to measure voltage.