over-run and high revs at idle?

dl.dropbox.com/u/17898942/IMG_3663a.jpg

[attachment:1]IMG_3663a.jpg[/attachment]

been trying to get my carb/pipe combination tuned in...
1979 KZ1000
V&H pipes (baffled)
pods

messing with the fuel screw seems to give me ok performance at low revs, 120 main jet seems to work ok for WOT and no problems breaking the ton.

However, I'm getting a fair bit of over-run and when I pull up to a stop loight or whatever, engine is revving at around 3000. The diaphragms all seem good on the carbs, but I noticed the PO had the needles all the way up. would dropping the needles fix this or is there something else I should be looking at?

I'm a bit of a novice with Kawasakis and with 4 carb bikes in general...

Any advice or pointers gladly appreciated.

cas.vanderwoude wrote: dl.dropbox.com/u/17898942/IMG_3663a.jpg

[attachment:1]IMG_3663a.jpg[/attachment]

been trying to get my carb/pipe combination tuned in...
1979 KZ1000
V&H pipes (baffled)
pods

messing with the fuel screw seems to give me ok performance at low revs, 120 main jet seems to work ok for WOT and no problems breaking the ton.

However, I'm getting a fair bit of over-run and when I pull up to a stop loight or whatever, engine is revving at around 3000. The diaphragms all seem good on the carbs, but I noticed the PO had the needles all the way up. would dropping the needles fix this or is there something else I should be looking at?

I'm a bit of a novice with Kawasakis and with 4 carb bikes in general...

Any advice or pointers gladly appreciated.

The manual slide Mikuni carbs don't have diaphragms such as fitted on CV carbs.

A "racing idle" may result from air leaks through carb holders that are old, worn out and cracked.
Sometimes, a clamp that holds the carb holder onto the carb might be loose or misfitted, resulting in an air leak.

Or "racing idle" might be due to a "hanging" throttle cable (for whatever reason), interfering with full complete closure of the carbs when the throttle is supposedly closed.
"Hanging" throttle cable could result from maladjustment failing to leave slight slack needed in the throttle cables upon completion of installation, or frayed, dirty, or insufficiently lubed throttle cable.

The jet needle clip position doesn't influence idle rpm.
But would suggest fitting the clip in the stock middle position.
The clip position affects air/fuel ratio throughout mid-range of the carbs.

Good Fortune!

thanks for the info, I'll go through your checklist. Had the carbs off the bike recently and all the things you pointed out could have happened. One small note, the '79 model has 2 diaphragms - an air stop and accelerator pump I assume. I know if the airstop is torn, the carb gives the cylinders a belly-full of gas when you come to a stop...

here is an update on my woes...

I did a "system restore" back to last known good configuration

-reversed the pipe changeover and put the old pipes back on
-jetted back to 117.5
-checked carb boots and clamps: all ok
-checked throttle cables - all ok
-checked advance unit and oiled pivots
-set fuel screws to 1 1/2 turns out
-checked and lubed physical movement on all carb components, throttle, choke etc
-checked throttle cables (they are new) and they seem all ok, gave them a touch more free play at carb.

But the frigging problem is still there. Seems even a very minor adjustment on the idle screw triggers the real high idle. So I have either idle below 1000 or around 3000 and can't find anywhere in between.

Hopefully someone out there can help me with a few tips to steer me in the right direction?

I'm by no means a carb expert but i had the exact same symtoms trying to get my nearly bone stock csr back in running condition (ie the bike sat for a while and carb passages needed to be wired out). It had high idle even after warming up, stumbling under load at low speed and then taking off hard. until I realized i didnt have the air filter seated down properly all the way and the airbox top attached. I often then wonder if some of you with pod filters are running into tune issues due to flowing way too much air. maybe you could try wrapping you pods half way or 3/4 with cardboard or tape or something and see if affects your problem.

You could try packing the pods with steel wool

A carb sync tool is expensive, but worth wile. I suppose there are different inexpensive ways to make your own, but be careful. I haven't tried it yet but I am going to lightly plagiarize someone from sportsbikes.net and say to use 2 t connectors, some clear hose, and some marvel mystery oil, link em together and screw with the adjustments until they are evenly filled while the bike is running.
I'm sorry for the run-on sentence.

agnogel wrote: You could try packing the pods with steel wool

Not a bad idea, the baffle from my old exhaust blew out so i used a drilled soup can with steel wool and muffler weld.

here, I plagiarized this for you also, I will tell youtube to put it on my bill for all the other things i copied and pasted

Check your ignition advancer under the points cover. It will sometimes get stuck at full advance or are sticky and slow to return. That will also give you the high idle or slow to return to idle. Just take it off, dissasemble, clean, oil and put back together.

I wonder if carbs not being synced would be responsible for gas flying around in the airbox, maybe getting in the crankcase vent andburning oil quicker.
yes carb sync yes.... that and taking it to the 9, rpm's in moderation are usually harmless, harmless.

donthaveakawman wrote: I wonder if carbs not being synced would be responsible for gas flying around in the airbox, maybe getting in the crankcase vent and burning oil quicker....

Gasoline inside the airbox more likely results from too much fuel getting past the float valve, for whatever reason, and rising up past a non-functioning overflow circuit (if so equipped) and on up into the carb throat, from where the gasoline flows forward toward the engine and backward toward the air box.

Sync involves throttle slide heights and pilot circuit mixtures, and is unrelated to the above reasons why gasoline may get into the crankcase.

Good Fortune!