- Posts: 16
- Thank you received: 0
over-run and high revs at idle?
- cas.vanderwoude
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
[attachment:1]IMG_3663a.jpg[/attachment]
been trying to get my carb/pipe combination tuned in...
1979 KZ1000
V&H pipes (baffled)
pods
messing with the fuel screw seems to give me ok performance at low revs, 120 main jet seems to work ok for WOT and no problems breaking the ton.
However, I'm getting a fair bit of over-run and when I pull up to a stop loight or whatever, engine is revving at around 3000. The diaphragms all seem good on the carbs, but I noticed the PO had the needles all the way up. would dropping the needles fix this or is there something else I should be looking at?
I'm a bit of a novice with Kawasakis and with 4 carb bikes in general...
Any advice or pointers gladly appreciated.
Motorcycles are like underpants - you should have one for each day of the week
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Patton
- Offline
- KZr Legend
- Posts: 18640
- Thank you received: 2098
The manual slide Mikuni carbs don't have diaphragms such as fitted on CV carbs.cas.vanderwoude wrote: dl.dropbox.com/u/17898942/IMG_3663a.jpg
[attachment:1]IMG_3663a.jpg[/attachment]
been trying to get my carb/pipe combination tuned in...
1979 KZ1000
V&H pipes (baffled)
pods
messing with the fuel screw seems to give me ok performance at low revs, 120 main jet seems to work ok for WOT and no problems breaking the ton.
However, I'm getting a fair bit of over-run and when I pull up to a stop loight or whatever, engine is revving at around 3000. The diaphragms all seem good on the carbs, but I noticed the PO had the needles all the way up. would dropping the needles fix this or is there something else I should be looking at?
I'm a bit of a novice with Kawasakis and with 4 carb bikes in general...
Any advice or pointers gladly appreciated.
A "racing idle" may result from air leaks through carb holders that are old, worn out and cracked.
Sometimes, a clamp that holds the carb holder onto the carb might be loose or misfitted, resulting in an air leak.
Or "racing idle" might be due to a "hanging" throttle cable (for whatever reason), interfering with full complete closure of the carbs when the throttle is supposedly closed.
"Hanging" throttle cable could result from maladjustment failing to leave slight slack needed in the throttle cables upon completion of installation, or frayed, dirty, or insufficiently lubed throttle cable.
The jet needle clip position doesn't influence idle rpm.
But would suggest fitting the clip in the stock middle position.
The clip position affects air/fuel ratio throughout mid-range of the carbs.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- cas.vanderwoude
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 16
- Thank you received: 0
Motorcycles are like underpants - you should have one for each day of the week
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- cas.vanderwoude
- Topic Author
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 16
- Thank you received: 0
I did a "system restore" back to last known good configuration
-reversed the pipe changeover and put the old pipes back on
-jetted back to 117.5
-checked carb boots and clamps: all ok
-checked throttle cables - all ok
-checked advance unit and oiled pivots
-set fuel screws to 1 1/2 turns out
-checked and lubed physical movement on all carb components, throttle, choke etc
-checked throttle cables (they are new) and they seem all ok, gave them a touch more free play at carb.
But the frigging problem is still there. Seems even a very minor adjustment on the idle screw triggers the real high idle. So I have either idle below 1000 or around 3000 and can't find anywhere in between.
Hopefully someone out there can help me with a few tips to steer me in the right direction?
Motorcycles are like underpants - you should have one for each day of the week
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- cadmonkey
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 9
- Thank you received: 1
'82 CSR 1000 a work in progress
'97 Suzuki bandit 1200 the daily ride
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- agnogel
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 17
- Thank you received: 0
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- donthaveakawman
- Visitor
I'm sorry for the run-on sentence.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- donthaveakawman
- Visitor
Not a bad idea, the baffle from my old exhaust blew out so i used a drilled soup can with steel wool and muffler weld.agnogel wrote: You could try packing the pods with steel wool
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- donthaveakawman
- Visitor
here, I plagiarized this for you also, I will tell youtube to put it on my bill for all the other things i copied and pasted
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- baldy110
- Offline
- User
- Posts: 2272
- Thank you received: 512
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- donthaveakawman
- Visitor
yes carb sync yes.... that and taking it to the 9, rpm's in moderation are usually harmless, harmless.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Patton
- Offline
- KZr Legend
- Posts: 18640
- Thank you received: 2098
Gasoline inside the airbox more likely results from too much fuel getting past the float valve, for whatever reason, and rising up past a non-functioning overflow circuit (if so equipped) and on up into the carb throat, from where the gasoline flows forward toward the engine and backward toward the air box.donthaveakawman wrote: I wonder if carbs not being synced would be responsible for gas flying around in the airbox, maybe getting in the crankcase vent and burning oil quicker....
Sync involves throttle slide heights and pilot circuit mixtures, and is unrelated to the above reasons why gasoline may get into the crankcase.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.