Plug reading photos UPDATED, clear, 3photos

I reset the float height on my KZ200, and, it seems to run OK. But, when I look at the plug, and compare it with various examples, I cannot really decide if it is rich or not, or, perhaps lean.

I updated these photos to show what I think is the annealing line, and, the creamic insulator,
more clearly

www.dpreview.com/galleries/1280783007/al...at-41miles/slideshow

If anyone has a few seconds to run through them an offer a perspective, that would be appreciated.

Also, I put the plug in new, ran it for 41 miles continuously, or about an hour and a half, about half that mileage at 5500 rpm, the rest stop and start and drive.

looks good to me....

Thank you. I was worried a little about it being too rich.....but...I closely look and don't really see any sign that the plug is running too hot.

But, I learned all I know about plug reading on the internet.

As long as the insulator is tan youre safe.
Black would be rich or ignition isnt doing its jo.
White would be lean

jsanch08 wrote: I reset the float height on my KZ200....

Is fuel level within spec as evidenced by the clear tube test?

Good Fortune!

Well,

The float height is a slightly strange story. I rode the bike from 1992-2001 and put 3000 miles on it without ever checking the float height. I stored the bike from 2001 to this summer, and, when I pulled it out of storage, it would not idle.

I cleaned the idle circuit with some 28 guage copper wire, and cleaned up the float bowl etc. The idle came back, but, the idle was not stable.

So, I took some 1/8 tubing and wrapped it with teflon tape and screwed it into the drain the carb bowl and measured the static height below the gasket surface. It was 11mm below that gasket. I checked the spec and it was 5mm. Note, I did not tap the float bowl to see if that was a false reading, because, at that point I was still learning.

So, I pulled the float and bent the tang a few times until distance from the gasket was 6mm. But, after that the bike ran very rich, and, in fact, for whatever reason, sometimes the float level would exceed the height of the gasket and go to the overflow. After trying to get the float level to stabilize, and failing, I reset the float level to 8mm below the gasket surface (spec is 5mm).

Bike runs good, but, the ceramic is white, not tan.

I will have to learn more about tan vs white.

The ceramic is white. Not tan.

But, it shows not sign of blistering, and, there is no sign of metal particles on it.

Appears a tad lean. The outer ring of the plug is usually Lowspeed, midrange is 1/2 way up the ceramic insulator , the top of the insulator and tip are top end.
The outer ring(lowspeed) is speckled, showing that your top end is lean enough to start cleaning that area, the redish color is gas additives, your top end is lean. An overall light brown to brown is a good mixture.
Keep in mind any one area thats way rich could blacken the whole plug.
Thats just my years of tuning based in my opinion.
When I check top end only, I use a clean or blasted plug, then get at topend for a long ways and pull clutch and kill ignition on rt handlebar. Then stop and check plug right there.

Click

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> NGK Info

jsanch08 wrote: The ceramic is white. Not tan.

But, it shows not sign of blistering, and, there is no sign of metal particles on it.

I guess I need new glasses,looks tan to me anyway.

wireman wrote:

jsanch08 wrote: The ceramic is white. Not tan.

But, it shows not sign of blistering, and, there is no sign of metal particles on it.

I guess I need new glasses,looks tan to me anyway.

+1 here

wireman wrote:

jsanch08 wrote: The ceramic is white. Not tan.

But, it shows not sign of blistering, and, there is no sign of metal particles on it.

I guess I need new glasses,looks tan to me anyway.

That's cause you always got those sunglasses on