Dynojet Kit tuning question

Evening,

Installed the DynoJet kit for my 1980 KZ 550

Everything went well on the install.

Air screw @ 3/4 turn out, needle e-clip in groove 3, washer on top

Test 1 is good only a slight spattering at 5k but no surging or hesitation
Test 2 was good power delivery is strong and consistent
Test 3 was great...so long as it was a moderate to quick acceleration - instant full throttle cause a bad hesitation, might even kill the engine if I didn't let up.

Also, from idle any try of a "blip" causes bogging.

I am at 3/4 turn out on the air screws and really don't want to have to move the clip on the needles, it really runs well other that those couple items..... thoughts??

Haven't really run it enough to check the plugs yet...

TIA

David

Does partial application of choke either reduce or worsen the symptoms?

If not already done, would assure perfect functioning of the timing advancer.
And visually observe spark quality, looking for fat blue sparks.
And assure valve clearances are within specs.

Good Fortune!

Not sure what comes in a Dyno jet kit for a 550, but generally if you are 3/4 turns out on a mixture screw the pilot is too big. It is also consistent with the bogging you mentioned. That is if you set it by proper procedure. If you just turned it to 3/4 and left it that would not be proper procedure.

Full throttle with the hesitation sounds as if the main jet is too big as well.

What exhaust do you have?
Are you using the airbox?

Why did you go with 3/4 turns?

Less turns out is richer.

Usually if it bogs when you give it a blip, but runs ok when you very gradually open the throttle, that means the lowest throttle position is too rich. Try 1-1/4 out and see if that makes it better.

Blipping the throttle makes a temporary rich condition. Holding steady throttle and letting the RPMs go up let's the mixture get leaner.

Also, if you have the washers on top of the needle clips, get rid of them. They will cause the needle to bind up. My tk-22 website has a lot of details on the needle shimming and what you need to do to prevent the needle bind when using washers.

It's hard to say from descriptions, but I think test 1 is telling you the part throttle cruise is too lean. That means you need larger pilots.

Test 2 shows the needle at 3rd clip from top is good. Get rid of the washers.

That bog from idle is probably because you have the screws too rich as a way to compensate for the test 1 problem of the pilots too small.

Being rich at idle means you have to come off idle slower otherwise it gets too rich during the throttle change, but staying steady off idle makes it eventually get too lean.

Larger pilots, with larger air-screw openings, will make idle leaner while enrichening off-idle cruise.

Test 3: normal.
Because this is a manual slide carb, you can never do a quick wide-open-throttle blip from idle. That will almost always stall. CV carbs don't do that, but manual slides require throttle control. That's just how they are (when the carbs are reasonably sized. Much smaller carbs probably would allow full-throttle blips and not stall, like on scooters and mopeds).