TOPIC:

Should
the (plate needle} move up and down in the
valve diaphram

and should this motion up an down be smooth

p.s i checked two carbs and both are hard jammed

If you are referring to the piston that changes the size of the venturi and has a needle attached, yes. It should move up and down. There should be a diagram of your carbs in the manual and at the buykawasaki.com web site.

Duck wrote:

If you are referring to the piston that changes the size of the venturi and has a needle attached, yes. It should move up and down. There should be a diagram of your carbs in the manual and at the buykawasaki.com web site.

yes I believe so
according to buy kawii descriptions are

plate needle
inside the valve diaphram

just to double check
ive attached the diagram
circled the plate that moves up and down
can u confirm this


(basiclly what is normaly done to get this motion moving freely??)

Where's George! He's looked at a lot more versions of this carb than I have.

The needle is not supposed to move up and down inside the slide.
On the diagram it looks like the pn 16055 will be held in place by the spring. On my GS this part moves around a little under the retaining ring. Just enough to rock a tad off center.

On older vrsion of this carb, the needle supports are smaller and there is a plastic piece(part 11) held in place over them using a retaining ring(part 12).






Post edited by: Duck, at: 2006/05/26 15:28

Most of the BS series carbs on kaws don't have the nasty retaining ring (try and get that thing out with a normal circlip remover... it is down there about 6 inches deep bwhahahaha

The yellowish plastic disk sits on top the jet needle. There is nothing to retain it. When you open the throttle, the venturi size changes as the slide moves up, the jet needle and plastic disk do not move but stay in place relative to the vacuum piston (slide).

When you ask, should it move freely, it doesn't move at all unless you have the slide out and push up on the jet needle. IT SHOULD COME RIGHT OUT! On some bikes, those things can be stickey and they can be a nightmare to get out.

Ground on some surplus needle nose pliars to make a tool. Worth it even if only used once.

newer bs looks to be much easier to work on.

Yep im able to pop the diaphrams out and pop the needles out the corks i have the right information as to how the plate and needle should operate thks guy

next

i would normally adjust throttle stop screw
normally during cold start id start bike with choke out
whithin no more than a minute the rpm would reach 2000
push choke in settle to 1000 with perfect idle nice and warm on some occasions idle would drop below 1000 at cold starts with choke in
i would adjust the throttle stop to bring it up just a little and rpms about 1200 warm up tweek it down a little always using my tach checking rpm

with that said
ive completly screwd the throttle position home off last i tried to start bike

i need to no how to zero this

looking at the bike from rear turning the knob clockwise i have it completly bottomed out how many turns counter clockwise should i make to home this throttle stop ????

Post edited by: froggy, at: 2006/05/27 02:36

Back it out until it's not engaged. Turn in in a few turns. Should get you in the ballpark.