rebuild and tuning

The far left side carburetor of my '77 kz1000B leaks fuel out the overflow. I'm not sure if it is the jets/needles/float/or drain nipple yet. I'm preparing to open it up and either rebuild or tune the carburetor. I'm thinking about getting one of these: www.z1enterprises.com/Carburetor-Rebuild...Z1000-197778-43.aspx

I doubt I'll need half the parts for the carburetor rebuild, but I wouldn't mind having the extra parts and pieces around. I'm also leaning towards buying this guide: www.z1enterprises.com/Sudco-Carburetor-Tuning-Guide-231.aspx

I have some basic tools available and a friend with some limited carburetor experience. He has some cleaning chemicals for carbs. I have a 'Clymer' manual with some limited steps.

At this point I'm preparing to make the order. Should I order some extra gaskets too? Is it a rule of thumb to just replace gaskets every time the carbs are opened? Any other things I should order to help with a basic carb rebuild/tune... and I'm trying to do this on the cheaper side.

Also I'm looking for any guides or information on process. I'm looking into the 'clear tube test' right now. I'm sure this is a tired subject but I'd rather start anew instead of hi jack a bunch of other threads

It's likely something just a cleaning will take care of. Worst case you'll just need the float needle as that's the piece that is supposed to stop the overflow.

Also, unless you're changing something on the bike, I wouldn't bother with the tuning manual. There's a good amount of free information available for learning how your carbs function. I would recommend a good Kawasaki brand Factory Service Manual over the tuning manual for a mostly stock bike.

Also, chemicals are really necessary if you don't want to use them. The metal bits in a pot of lemon juice/water makes a great cleaning solution. Recommend doing it outside, though, as it stinks like all get out.

Some canned carb cleaner or compressed air will get you the rest of the way.

TheFlyingFreemole wrote: ...trying to do this on the cheaper side....

With in-line fuel filter fitted, and engine off, would flush the float valve by opening the float bowl drain and allowing gasoline to wash through, this being an effort to loosen and flush away any grit or crud at the orifice in the needle-seat interface.

Next, try to stop the overflow discharge, with engine at idle, by rapping smartly against side of float bowl with a plastic mallet or large screw driver handle, which sometimes shakes loose a bit of grit or crud at the orifice in the needle-seat interface.

Then run through a tank-full of gasoline with SeaFoam added.

If above fails to sufficiently resolve the carb issue, would consider a thorough cleaning and reassembly without using any new parts, which might be successful.

Remember to keep the same float needles with their same seats, as they are matched pairs, and should not be mixed up.

Good Fortune!

If the carbs haven't been messed with I wouldn't bother with the clear tube method. It's more likely gunk causing the float needle to not seat completely when the float bowl fills.

I think the only thing I would order would be float bowl gaskets as they may leak after taking it apart to clean.

Float bowl gaskets: www.z1enterprises.com/Carb-Float-Bowl-Ga...saki-Suzuki-311.aspx

Also, I would install (if not already done) some inline fuel filters: www.z1enterprises.com/SearchResult.aspx?...yWords=fuel%20filter (or check with the local bike shop).

Would also highly recommend shutting off the fuel petcock whenever the bike isn't running - the petcock might be the actual source of the issue if it isn't shutting off completely (although a carb cleaning isn't a bad thing to go through).

I haven't tried physically dislodging and gunk. I currently park the bike with the fuel turned off. I also have a about 1.5 gallons of gas mixed with about 2.5 oz seafoam. I've run it for about a half an hour with this mix in it, but haven't been able to run it any longer as it is been snowing recently.

After running the rest of this tank and trying a gas flush, and tapping to physically dislodge should I try a spray can cleaner sprayed in from the top? Or should I just go at it and tear it apart and clean it completely?

Could you give a bit of recent history about the bike / operation? Has the bike been sitting, or was it running well and just developed a leak? This would help people here diagnose the problem better for you. If the bike has been sitting for weeks or months then it could be gunk in the carbs (curd on needle valve). Or the debris from the tank made its way into the carbs and clogged the float needle valve. However, if the bike was running fine before this happened, then it could be the over flow tube may have a leak (does if this only happens when the bike is off but the petcock on?). So its helps to indicate if or how the bike was running before.

I bought the bike less than a month ago. It hasn't sat longer than a few days with out being started in my ownership. Before that it had been sitting for a couple months. Before that the carbs had been redone about 2 years ago now. I'm thinking it is hopefully along the lines of gunk.

If the bike otherwise runs ok and the only carb issue is overflow I would simply turn off the petcock, drop the fuel bowl with the carbs still on the bike, clean the float valve (orifice and needle using carb cleaner and Q-tip - nothing abrasive), replace the fuel bowl, and see if the leak was cured. I did this with my bike several years ago when there was a tiny bit of crud keeping the float valve from closing completely and it solved the problem. For sure, try this procedure before removing and rebuilding carbs when they may not need it. Ed