float bowls

had some drippy carbs #1 and #3 the #1 was the worst my shifter foot shoe and pant leg smelled like gasoline often. the problem was that the float bowl overflow tubes were cracked i patched them and set the float levels. twenty+/- tries later i got them right and i dont mean to brag but theres no fancy equipment here. i decided i might as well patch the other two for good measure and when i put them back on that time i guess there is a vacuum leak now and no low end power. i ordered some aeresol gasket sealer so i can just empty the can on the intake boots if i feel the need. i sprayed carb cleaner on the intake boots earlier today and the rpm's jumped about 3000 higher than where it was idling so i am pretty sure that is where the leak is at. furthermore i forgot that i had a champion n2c spark plug in the #1 plug hole<since late july> the old ngk plug pulled up some threads from the head that is still useable. my hypothesis is that cylinder was running hot due to a lean fuel mixture and possibly caused the head to melt to the plug<it was cold when i pulled it= drippy carb. now i would recomend not to use champion n2c spark plugs in a hot engine such as this because they are probably intended for a 5 hp max lawnmower engine. i was zapped multiple times i am just now getting the feeling back in my lefthand index finger i was zapped while pulling the clutch not too far from home so what could i do but turn it off and coast, then push this was about a month ago i replaced the plug wires that made it better and just now i remembered oh thats why. its funny that the shock made it through my harbor frieght mechanics work gloves, maybe the electricity made it through the clutch cable. anyway it is the fault of the carburetor adjustment that i was zapped 1980kz750 h1

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H1Vindicator wrote: didntgetveryfarreadinghavingashortattentionspannallbutonethingisthatitsoundlikeyouremissingthecarburtoroverlfowtubingwhichelpstodirectfuelawayfromahotenginekindahandyforminimizingthechancesforafireespeciallyintheeventyoudumpthebikebutlikeisaidthatsasfarasigotsincereadingalongpostwithnopunctuationorcapitalizationaintmycupoteagoodluck

ha! :laugh:

Your post is hard to read. After a sentenance or two hit "Enter" so we old guys can read it.

Getting shocked through the clutch lever is a new one to me. It there naked wires under your gas tank?

donthaveakawman wrote: had some drippy carbs #1 and #3 the #1 was the worst my shifter foot shoe and pant leg smelled like gasoline often. the problem was that the float bowl overflow tubes were cracked i patched them and set the float levels. twenty+/- tries later i got them right and i dont mean to brag but theres no fancy equipment here. i decided i might as well patch the other two for good measure and when i put them back on that time i guess there is a vacuum leak now and no low end power. i ordered some aeresol gasket sealer so i can just empty the can on the intake boots if i feel the need. i sprayed carb cleaner on the intake boots earlier today and the rpm's jumped about 3000 higher than where it was idling so i am pretty sure that is where the leak is at. furthermore i forgot that i had a champion n2c spark plug in the #1 plug hole<since late july> the old ngk plug pulled up some threads from the head that is still useable. my hypothesis is that cylinder was running hot due to a lean fuel mixture and possibly caused the head to melt to the plug<it was cold when i pulled it= drippy carb. now i would recomend not to use champion n2c spark plugs in a hot engine such as this because they are probably intended for a 5 hp max lawnmower engine. i was zapped multiple times i am just now getting the feeling back in my lefthand index finger i was zapped while pulling the clutch not too far from home so what could i do but turn it off and coast, then push this was about a month ago i replaced the plug wires that made it better and just now i remembered oh thats why. its funny that the shock made it through my harbor frieght mechanics work gloves, maybe the electricity made it through the clutch cable. anyway it is the fault of the carburetor adjustment that i was zapped 1980kz750 h1

Am doubtful that anything related to carb adjustment was related to the zap.

More likely, a spark plug wire was for whatever reason leaking high intensity voltage, which was conducting through its insulation covering to the chassis-frame (perhaps from wire to engine valve cover to frame.)

For instance, new spark plug wires may touch the valve cover without leakage while the engine is running.

One test for plug wire leakage is to spray water mist over the plug wires with the engine running in the dark, and watch for sparks. :woohoo:

Good Fortune!

ok, i apologize for the run on sentence.
i fixed the vacuum leak at the intake with some permatex spray gasket sealer.
i have noticed an occasional puff of smoke or steam or whatever by the carbs.
what is it i hope its not coming out of the head gasket. probably still an intake leak+backfire maybe another coat of gasket sealer or two would cause the problem a problem and cause me to be able to stop worrying.i made a saddlebag out of a jansport shoulder satchel maybe i will ride it like that but it is a purple bag and bleach didnt seem to do anything about it. i sould rather have a gpz with the watercooled motor does anyone know if the mounts are the same?exhaust?chain?
80kz750h1

donthaveakawman wrote: ok, i apologize for the run on sentence.
i fixed the vacuum leak at the intake with some permatex spray gasket sealer.
i have noticed an occasional puff of smoke or steam or whatever by the carbs.
what is it i hope its not coming out of the head gasket. probably still an intake leak+backfire maybe another coat of gasket sealer or two would cause the problem a problem and cause me to be able to stop worrying.i made a saddlebag out of a jansport shoulder satchel maybe i will ride it like that but it is a purple bag and bleach didnt seem to do anything about it. i sould rather have a gpz with the watercooled motor does anyone know if the mounts are the same?exhaust?chain?
80kz750h1

Applying any kind of sealant to leaking carb holders is at best a very temporary remedy.

A too tight intake valve clearance may cause backfire through the carb.

If the purple jansport shoulder satchel saddlebag is made of leather, it could be dyed with maybe black or brown leather dye. And if made of vinyl, it could be re-colored by spray painting with rattle can plastic upholstery dye.
Am recalling that OMR uses the exact same dual bags in orange, and luvs 'em.

What color GPZ?

Good Fortune!

well i would like a gpz watercooled motor on the kz because it might be more economical, with 4 valves per cylinder there would be greater airflow for the upper rpm's. but now that i think about it it would probably be a gutless terd as far as tourque goes, i really dont know i have never had one.

the kz750 e1 looks like it is not safe. the seat is straight, unlike the kz750 h1 that has a groove in the seat.
when i was riding my kz750 h1 on christmas at night after adjusting the springs to their middle stiffness(as opposed to their stiffest adjustment where they were) i noticed while sitting forward on the seat givving it 3/4 throttle while well into the powerband, along with laying some rubber on a poorly done tar patch job on the road, i slid back in the seat pretty forcefully so i would think if someone were on a kz750 e1 that person would probably want to install one of those killswitches like in the treadmills at the gym, yes the one on the string.

yesterday, the 26th i stalled in a busy intersection and had to push the bike to taco time to get out of the road.
i am pretty sure there is a short in the electrical, the starter wasnt working. when in neutral i noticed that it depends where the forks are turned but sometimes the green light is on and sometimes it isnt.
perhaps it is that ignition switch from autozone that i stuffed in the ignition switch hole that is making it malfunction along with me leaving it in the rain.
its not that i liked this ignition switch it just doesnt look like i stole the bike and it looks theft deterrent.
when i bought the bike; title and everything, it was being started with a butterknife.

oops it probably isnt the carbs' fault although i would like some input on the float needle clips one was missing are they absolutely nessicary and i wonder about the white puff between the carbs can i remove the pcv hose and put a filter there to see if that helps anything?

donthaveakawman wrote: well i would like a gpz watercooled motor on the kz because it might be more economical, with 4 valves per cylinder there would be greater airflow for the upper rpm's. but now that i think about it it would probably be a gutless terd as far as tourque goes, i really dont know i have never had one.

the kz750 e1 looks like it is not safe. the seat is straight, unlike the kz750 h1 that has a groove in the seat.
when i was riding my kz750 h1 on christmas at night after adjusting the springs to their middle stiffness(as opposed to their stiffest adjustment where they were) i noticed while sitting forward on the seat givving it 3/4 throttle while well into the powerband, along with laying some rubber on a poorly done tar patch job on the road, i slid back in the seat pretty forcefully so i would think if someone were on a kz750 e1 that person would probably want to install one of those killswitches like in the treadmills at the gym, yes the one on the string.

yesterday, the 26th i stalled in a busy intersection and had to push the bike to taco time to get out of the road.
i am pretty sure there is a short in the electrical, the starter wasnt working. when in neutral i noticed that it depends where the forks are turned but sometimes the green light is on and sometimes it isnt.
perhaps it is that ignition switch from autozone that i stuffed in the ignition switch hole that is making it malfunction along with me leaving it in the rain.
its not that i liked this ignition switch it just doesnt look like i stole the bike and it looks theft deterrent.
when i bought the bike; title and everything, it was being started with a butterknife.

oops it probably isnt the carbs' fault although i would like some input on the float needle clips one was missing are they absolutely nessicary and i wonder about the white puff between the carbs can i remove the pcv hose and put a filter there to see if that helps anything?

would like a gpz watercooled motor...with 4 valves per cylinder...would probably be a gutless terd...i really dont know i have never had one --- don't know of anyone who's had one of those GT's.

kz750 e1 looks like it is not safe. the seat is straight, unlike the kz750 h1 that has a groove in the seat...riding my kz750 h1 on christmas at night after adjusting the springs to their middle stiffness(as opposed to their stiffest adjustment where they were) i noticed while sitting forward on the seat givving it 3/4 throttle while well into the powerband, along with laying some rubber on a poorly done tar patch job on the road, i slid back in the seat pretty forcefully so i would think if someone were on a kz750 e1 that person would probably want to install one of those killswitches like in the treadmills at the gym, yes the one on the string. --- wireman has his speed-boat kill switch on one flat seat bike and treadmill safety switches from local gyms on the others. But he's a little shy about running over half throttle into the power band. Especially in Kansas where the roads aren't ever patched.

yesterday, the 26th i stalled in a busy intersection and had to push the bike to taco time to get out of the road.
i am pretty sure there is a short in the electrical, the starter wasnt working. when in neutral i noticed that it depends where the forks are turned but sometimes the green light is on and sometimes it isnt.
perhaps it is that ignition switch from autozone that i stuffed in the ignition switch hole that is making it malfunction along with me leaving it in the rain.
its not that i liked this ignition switch it just doesnt look like i stole the bike and it looks theft deterrent.
when i bought the bike; title and everything, it was being started with a butterknife. --- electrical short is likely the correct diagnosis. But it might be a too short safety switch string. And btw, taco joints are risky parking sites because that's where OMR usually hangs out with his butterknife. MFolks should be along soon with military specs for wiring AutoZone ignition switches.

oops it probably isnt the carbs' fault although i would like some input on the float needle clips one was missing are they absolutely nessicary and i wonder about the white puff between the carbs can i remove the pcv hose and put a filter there to see if that helps anything? --- can probably get by okay without the clips. But imo neither the missing clip nor the existing hose is causing the white puff. If backfiring through the carb, a too tight intake valve might be responsible. One type filter could be an aftermarket inline filter (highly recommended) in the fuel hose before gasoline reaches the carb. Am not a fan of the other little filter some owners add to the crankcase vent hose, but which imo wouldn't cause or inhibit smoking from the crankcase vent, which smoking more likely results from worn pistons and/or rings and/or cylinder bores.

Good Fortune!

i guess i was just thinking too much with my dipstick and i put too much oil from the k&n air filter recharge kit on my air filter.
i took out the air filter and now i need to adjust the idle, clean and lightly this time i am going to oil the filter when i find the k&n kit somewhere around here.
i bought the hei parts for the ignition and i think i am going to do this as an upgrade i am curious as to where to put it. there is a good spot under the seat towards the back but i dont think it will get enough air in there to cool it down. i also need to find a drill for the mounting plate.
i think if i mount the ignition hei plate to some u-bolts to the frame i will be in good shape.

i remember when i got my 5hp briggs running for the first time. I remember i just clipped the kill wire off the motor since i thought i wouldnt be using it... well you guessed it, i shocked the hell out of myself trying to shut it off they seem to shock way harder at high RPM dont they?

Yes they do I just gave away a cat 300z minibike that had a Briggs and Stratton on it that I got as a gift oh well I don't like how the brakes work on those