Bike won't idle after taking apart carbs

So here's the deal. I took apart my carbs to try to fix a carb leak. I adjusted a couple of the float bowls including the one where the leak was coming from. I also returned the pilot jets to their stock position of 2 turns out (they had been set at 2 1/2 out). I put the carbs back on and the bike would only idle on choke even after i rode it some. It would shut off when i let off the throttle and disengaged the clutch. So i put the pilot jets back to 2 1/2 turns out. This helped a little but it still shuts off on me just not as quickly. Now, i had this problem before i took the carbs apart but once the engine warmed up thoroughly, it idled fine which it appears to NOT being now. So what I wanna do is turn the pilot jets out another half a turn to let more fuel through and hopefully it will idle fine. Sound good?

Does turning the throttle stop screw help?

Doggonet Ed, I don't where that is. Are you thinking my idea isn't a good one?

I mean to say that the previous owner put on a fuel filter so I was thinking this could be messing with the fuel that reaches the pilot jet

What type of fuel filter? Z1 sells the kind that will work with bikes, the car types need a fuel pump to force the gas through it. I suppose buying one for a lawmmower would work as they are not restrictive.

I couldn't tell you. It's got a golden pod shaped filter in it. What do you think about turning the pilot jet out another half?

KZ7hundy wrote: I couldn't tell you. It's got a golden pod shaped filter in it. What do you think about turning the pilot jet out another half?

Official authorization is hereby granted to turn the pilot screws (but not the pilot jets) out an additional 1/2 turn each, and test run for effect.

Some cv carbs have plugs/caps over the pilot jets, which plugs/caps are required for proper carb function.

Good Fortune!

Make sure that you haven't created a vacuum leak. Removing the carbs, one or more of the Intake Manifolds could be cracked or broken, they separate the rubber from the metal. Are you sure all the vacuum lines are hooked back up and not leaking, etc. Get it to Idle the best that you can and spray some carb cleaner at the Intakes, if the Idle changes, then Vacuum leak.

If the pilot screw is a pilot air adjustment screw, turning it out would generally allow more air into the mixture thereby providing a leaner mixture.

If the pilot screw is a pilot mixture adjustment screw, turning it out would generally allow more mixture into the bore thereby providing a richer intake mixture.

The carb parts diagram on kawasaki.com describes the 1984 KZ700 carb pilot screw as a pilot air screw, which would seemingly be an air adjustment, but this could be an erroneous interpretation.

Good Fortune!

650ed wrote: Does turning the throttle stop screw help?

I like Ed's suggestion. If it just takes maybe a 1/4 choke to keep it idling then a good sign the initial adjustment has just shifted the idle a tad as the last part of choke travel just effects the idle.

To find the idle adjustment/throttle stop look or reach behind and below between carbs 2 & 3 to find a large black plastic knurled nut or thumbscrew. Turning clockwise usually increases the idle. Just a tiny bit at a time

When the bike is warmed up reduce the choke and turn the throttle stop. I can sit on the bike at a stop light and reach under to the idle adjust/throttle stop and adjust the idle.

My fault, I meant pilot screw, not pilot jet. As well as now I know what you mean now by throttle stop, I hadn't heard it called this before. I appreciate all the suggestions. I'm working on it