Needle jets?

Cool. I drain the sediment cup and float bowls about every 1,000 miles. Each time I see particles. Particles of what? I don't know, they're black, there aren't a lot of them, but its annoying. Rust particles are magnetic, right? I'll get the inline filters on soon- they're sitting on my shelf at home. When I remove the sediment cup, I've never noticed a screen. Is one missing or do I have to pry it out of the fuel tap once the cup is removed?

mtbspeedfreak wrote: ... When I remove the sediment cup, I've never noticed a screen. Is one missing or do I have to pry it out of the fuel tap once the cup is removed?

The screen may be held in position by the o'ring (at top of sediment bowl) or possibly just snugly fitted into the petcock body and require gently pulling out.

But thinking the screen is likely missing, because it would have otherwise clogged up by now, and there's nothing to indicate fuel starvation.

Good Fortune!

No I wish starvation was my problem. That's an easy fix. haha

Mark, thanks for the heads up. Yeah, I was incorrect with my terminology- when I goose the throttle, I'd guess about 1/4 to 1/2 of the throttle opening, when I'm in low RPMs, that's when it falls flat on her face.

mtbspeedfreak wrote: Cool. I drain the sediment cup and float bowls about every 1,000 miles. Each time I see particles. Particles of what? I don't know, they're black, there aren't a lot of them, but its annoying. Rust particles are magnetic, right? I'll get the inline filters on soon- they're sitting on my shelf at home. When I remove the sediment cup, I've never noticed a screen. Is one missing or do I have to pry it out of the fuel tap once the cup is removed?

the screen may be missing. there are 2 screens inside the tank as well.1 for reserve and 1 for run. the particles u are seeing are likely rust. i think it would be a good idea to reset the needle back to its stock position, (middle) and see how it runs, then tackles the pilots air screws. after u have an inline filter installed.

I thought rust wasn't magnetic. :blink:
Is it? :huh:

"Rust is mostly hydrated Fe2O3 and is not "ferromagnetic" (forming strong magnetic fields) because the atoms of iron are separated by the atoms of oxygen (and molecules of water).

However, rust (and the Fe2O3 mineral hematite) responds to an electromagnetic field, and the weak attraction is now being used to separate hematite from waste ore, increasing the amount of iron extracted from a given amount of ore".

Read more: wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_isn%27t_rust_attr...magnet#ixzz1bm06HeFV

Anyone understand that? :blink:

How's the input voltage to the igniton coils?

Ignition Systems Testers
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8
www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?pr...ivision=1&category=8


Testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils For Input Voltage

When voltage testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils, the following needs to be done:

1. Remove the fuel/gas tank to access the coils.

2. Fully charge the battery.

3. Using a multimeter, set it up for VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

4. Turn on the ignition switch and the run/stop switch to “Run”.

5. Put the multimeter’s RED probe on where the red or red/yellow wire goes on the ignition coil.

6. Put the multimeter’s BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) post/terminal or a good frame ground.

7. You should be able to see battery voltage at the ignition coil connection.


Ignition Coil Primary And Secondary Wiring

Ignition coils on the 80’s Kz1000,Kz1100’s and Gpz1100’s are wired the same, that is as you sit on the bike, the LEFT ignition coil primary(small wires) are two wires, RED and BLACK. The secondary (or sparkplug wires) go to #1 and #4 sparkplugs(your primary wiring may be different). The 550’s,650’s & 750’s are backwards to what is listed for the bigger 4’s.

The cylinders are numbered left to right as you sit on the seat; #1,#2,#3, and #4.

For the RIGHT ignition coil, the primary wires, again are two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary going to #2 and #3.

The RED wire gets it’s voltage from the run/stop switch on the right handlebar switch pod. Your primary wiring may have a different color.

The BLACK and GREEN wires connect to the IC Igniter(if the bike has the Kawasaki supplied electronic ignition) it actually gives the coils their grounds to fire the sparkplugs.

Primary(small wires) side of the coils will read between 1.8 to 3.0 ohms.

Secondary(sparkplug wire ports)side of the coil will read between 10.4K to 15.6K ohms. These ports are wired together, so it makes no difference which is used, as long as the correct coil to sparkplug configuration is followed.

The sparkplug caps should read 5K OHMS(5000), any higher, or a reading of infinity means new caps should be ordered.

To stress the ignition coils, take a hair dryer, heat the coils and see if the ohm readings change from cold to hot . If they do, it’s time to buy new coils.

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Keep in mind, the wiring is reversed for the 550’s 650‘s and 750‘s, that is the RIGHT coil primary will be two wires, RED and BLACK with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #1 and #4.

The LEFT coils primary wiring would be again two wires, RED and GREEN, with the secondary(sparkplugs) going to #2 and #3.

These engines have what is known as a “Wasted Spark” that is, a sparkplug will fire during an exhaust stroke. It does no damage and many other motorcycle engines have this design.

Check the timing advancer. And put those needles back up where

they belong please.

nads.com wrote: Check the timing advancer. And put those needles back up where

they belong please.

Well you did ask nicely...

those POXY inline filters kill fuel flow.Dont beleive me, do some testing your self.with/without filter timed over 10 seconds with a stop watch an a measuring jug.Let me know what you come up with.Tho your issues are lower in the power range not up hi where the filters restrict top end .wayno