tuning bs34's

My engine seemed sluggish ratty up top.
The idle was up and down and I had to constantly adjust it.

3 and 1/2 turns out on the pilots, tried turning them in.
Ran it and it just seemed worse.

I stopped by the country roadside and was baffled.
been changing timing and getting different effects but no real ride.

well folks it was time to tune the carbs and get it on.

Little did I know the effects would be outragous. I can only describe the engine afterwards

with two words, bute force to the redline. It's what happens when say you might roll open the throttle

in first or second in a turn you better hang on and be prepard for the wheel breaking traction.




What I did out there made the port work SHINE!!

problem was each carb was getting different amounts of fuel.

Those pesky little screws.

I gave up on counting turns.
I turned the idle up to around 2.

I turned no.1 in and got a ways...

the idle came up.

I think one or two actually had to be turned in!

Holy snikes.

I back the idle down to about 950.

It seemed to stay there but I knew that had to be a fluke.

I pulled out onto the road and noticed that idle liked its spot.

Then :woohoo: :silly: :lol: :evil: :ohmy: :lol: :woohoo:

I'm never bench syching anything again.

And power is like fuel inj. the motor is so much smoother, so powerful up top,

It constantly builds and when you open the butterflys, hang on and say good
bye to your traction. Cuz it's not going to stay hooked.

Tons of stomping power. All the way from idle to the rip roaring top

That's gonna stomp out the 600cc.

I was reading about the magna vs zrx. pretty even.

I think I could take those bikes out.

They are just too heavy.

When I had those carbs off to clean them yesterday thats where it all started.

I looked into the intake runners and saw some of what I had done, straitghening
guide boss removal and shaping, and I thought there had to be more to it.


I screwed around in that head so much I figured it would either ruin it or it should run good.

Well I can tell now the breathing the head can handle, it's what makes the top
hard core output ONLY! All you gotta do is open the gates. I may as well had mice in the ports.
Each cylinder was fighting for a different amount of air.
It was like I had just the primer and not the powder.

Everything was in place the whole time just needed to tune fuel delivery.

wow

Everything I did

:evil: It rocks that bike the fuel is getting burned and its' hauling out.

So I made out like a bandit. 1015cc kit, .407 cams porting and thirty fours
with drilled mains and stock pilot.

Out an old kerker with a homade baffle.

It means serious buiseness, regardless of looks, zip ties, duck tape peeled paint,
missing side covers, etc.

Every 600 is vulenerable to this bike.

I have new respect for the powerplant in that frame.

That's the way I wanted it to rev
That's the way I wnated it to pull

That's how fast I wanted it to be.
Got that little buzz box putting out some dynomite power!

I can tune the timing for curves or staight line mph according to the track or road.

That part I got down to science.

Lot's of practice there and now changes made in timing are dramatic.

It's a nice tool to have if needed.

So bring one

bring all

I'm here man

Chewing on a straw, looking down the road, listening to the birds singing
in the trees, got time and money and women on my mind, wandering through life,
playing with my kz, still seeking an ultimit destination.

It's somewhere the kz can't be or help me get to,
but I still figure it's ok to ride in the mean time...

Ride on brother,ride on

I'm hearin you man,maybe I am behind you or maybe I am in front of you either way I am always chasing that old kz dream... well minus the bs34's.
cheers

Fly like the wind Naddy....

"Those pesky little screws.

I gave up on counting turns.
I turned the idle up to around 2.

I turned no.1 in and got a ways...

the idle came up.

I think one or two actually had to be turned in!

Holy snikes.

I back the idle down to about 950.

It seemed to stay there but I knew that had to be a fluke.

I pulled out onto the road and noticed that idle liked its spot."


Can you elaborate on this please? What did you do? :huh:

cyclhed wrote;
"Can you elaborate on this please? What did you do? :huh: "

Motor Head wrote: cyclhed wrote;
"Can you elaborate on this please? What did you do? :huh: "

Thanks, but that won't help...

82 KZ1000 CSR Bs34s. Today I pulled the plugs on my pilot screws and found them 2.5 turns out. I fiddled around with them and got the highest idle speed at 3 turns out each. I then balanced the carbs with my carbtune to within a nats ass of each other. The bike runs and accelerates like a motherf**ker, but I still had a miss on one cylinder so i pulled the plugs and sure enough #4 is at 70# while 1 = 180#. 2= 170# and #3= 190#. That is tested with hot engine, throttle open and 2 squirts of motor oil in the cylinders. Also when I pull the #4 plug wire while the engine is running it doesn't change the speed. I put the compression gauge in #4 and ran the engine and it only made 70#. The valves were adjusted 4K mikes ago so I don't think they are tight on that cylinder. I guess I burned a valve maybe, didn't do a leak down yet. Or maybe the head gasket? What do you all think? The miss started about 300 miles ago after a fast blast to Reno and back. It ran fine all the way there and while I was there and then coming home down hiway 50 at 75-80 mph it shit something and started missing on #4.

Leak Down Test is next, and recheck the valve clearance. But well, looks like a top end job.

Motor Head wrote: Leak Down Test is next, and recheck the valve clearance. But well, looks like a top end job.

I finally got around to doing a leak down on my 82 1000 CSR. I warmed up the engine to operating temp first. Pulled the spark plug and rotated to TDC on compression stroke of course. Number 4 is the problem hole so I only checked that one and adjacent one (3) for comparison which has 15% leakage. To reiterate: 1, 2, and 3 all were in spec as I stated in my post above. The percentage of leak on 4 is 65 and it's leaking past the exhaust valve. I just adjusted the valve clearance less than 5k miles ago so that is not the issue here. What I am speculating is that maybe a piece of carbon from the combustion chamber broke loose and got caught in the valve and that is causing the leak. I can see a portion of the exhaust valve sealing surface through the plug hole and it is not shiny as it should be; it looks like it's been leaking past it. I can only see about 1/4 of the sealing surface though. Has anybody seen anything like this? If it is a piece of carbon that got hammered in there, what would clean it without dis-assembly? There is 30k miles on the bike and engine.

You could try taking the airbox top off and filter out & spraying water in it with it running at 3000 or so with a water pistol. That would get the carbon out but I doubt thats your problem, Doesnt cost much to try it though. Instead of thinking rhe valve setting is Ok how hard would it be to stick a feeler gauge in there instead of guessing