to everyone with cv carbs trying to run pod filter

Back in the late 70's all the bracket racers started using CV carbs because they were dead on consistent. Velosity stacks and whopping jets. :ohmy:

I figured if it worked for them it would work for me. Except I run pods and not so whopping jets.

I bought a ninja one time and it wouldn't run without air filters so I called someone I know and he told me the reason it would not run was because it was too lean wthout a filter. Got big jets and pods and I owned my first whellie bike.

Thanks for the info. I've been fighting this problem on a Honda with CV's that have mechanically sealed slides instead of diaphragms. Keihin I think. I'll give this a shot.

I have absolutely no problems and there is NO Notch inside the filter boot.

otakar wrote: If your carbs came from a Kz1000 or 1100 you will have some problems. The draw between your bike and the "J" series motors is quite a bit different if your engine is stock. What you want is a set from a GPz750 (not a KZ750) Those would also be Mikuni carbs but the slides are quite a bit different to accommodate the lower draw threw them. You don't want KZ750 carbs because they are Keihin and they are SHIT. If your bike has had head-work done on it than the KZ1000/1100 BS34s would be fine but just need to be set up right.

Wire George stated that keihin carbs work "very nicely".

Is there something you guys don't know :blink: :woohoo: ?

He he he

I got 34 mikunis on a 1015 and when I punch it at 75oo or 8ooo

and the back end starts squirreling all over the place

and by the time my eyes locate the tack

it's showing me 11,000

I believe they are working.

Friend told me the other day my bike sounded like a
moto gp bike.

And that was a burned out batt. pulling down voltage to
9volts.

YEEEEEA BABY I'm 225lbs and

resemble a flying terd.

Got the carbs off a 1980 1000j

power all day.

peter1958 wrote:

:laugh:
:laugh:
:laugh:
:laugh:
:laugh:

Some cheap pods do in fact interfere with the slide lift port in the bellmouth. I've seen that before. Not all PODS are created equal

Polar_Bus wrote:

kzbigrick wrote: Ok age old question. Why can't I get my bike with cb carbs to run right with pos filters? Ok here is the answer and the solution to your problem. I have a kz 900 with some late model cv carbs on it (don't ask got it that way) with pod filters on it. Bike was running like shit when gave anymore than about 1/4 throttle. Started searching the net to only find the same answer "pods on cv carbs don't work". I don't like being told something won't work so I kept asking until I asked a guy that owns a local shop and this is the fix. If u look at carb there is a kinda kidney bean shaped port , well the pod filters block air flow thru this port. Cv carbs use air(suction) to raise slides. When twist throttle it opens butterfly which supplies air to motor and to carb to move slides via those ports. All u have to do is notch the rubber inside the pod that mates with port. U can pop the filter off the boot and put boot on carb so u can see where and how much to notch. I was lucky to get 2500-3000rpm out of my bike before I did this now it is running fine. U will still have to do some jetting as with any performance upgrade. I hope this post answers this age old question and saves a lot of headaches for people.

Ive read this "fix" before. And while I do understand what the idea is, I don't believe this is the "end all" correction for why CV's simply run like garbage with pods. If this above mentioned fix was the true issue than why do the pod mfg's not advise to perform this check and or modifiy the design of the pods to ensure the carb CV vent passageway is unobstructed ? CV carbs were intoduced 21 years ago, and 21 years later most performance tuners are still scratching their heads at how to get pods and CV's to cooperate together....

Only the stupid ones :laugh: They make jet kits for CV carburetors that allow them to work properly. I've installed lots and lots of them. Factory, K&N, DynoJet....

Once you yank the airbox, it changes everything. The easiest route to a properly running bike with CV carbs is to buy the jet kit. Pissing around with larger pilots jets is the first mistake most guys make. That technique is so ancient that carburetors were measured it cubits :woohoo:

Thus spake Zarathustra-best technique is leave the freakin airbox in the freakin bike and leave the freakin carbs the freak alone-thus spake Mr.BS34.Lol.bj

cavanaughracing wrote:

Polar_Bus wrote:

kzbigrick wrote: Ok age old question. Why can't I get my bike with cb carbs to run right with pos filters? Ok here is the answer and the solution to your problem. I have a kz 900 with some late model cv carbs on it (don't ask got it that way) with pod filters on it. Bike was running like shit when gave anymore than about 1/4 throttle. Started searching the net to only find the same answer "pods on cv carbs don't work". I don't like being told something won't work so I kept asking until I asked a guy that owns a local shop and this is the fix. If u look at carb there is a kinda kidney bean shaped port , well the pod filters block air flow thru this port. Cv carbs use air(suction) to raise slides. When twist throttle it opens butterfly which supplies air to motor and to carb to move slides via those ports. All u have to do is notch the rubber inside the pod that mates with port. U can pop the filter off the boot and put boot on carb so u can see where and how much to notch. I was lucky to get 2500-3000rpm out of my bike before I did this now it is running fine. U will still have to do some jetting as with any performance upgrade. I hope this post answers this age old question and saves a lot of headaches for people.

Ive read this "fix" before. And while I do understand what the idea is, I don't believe this is the "end all" correction for why CV's simply run like garbage with pods. If this above mentioned fix was the true issue than why do the pod mfg's not advise to perform this check and or modifiy the design of the pods to ensure the carb CV vent passageway is unobstructed ? CV carbs were intoduced 21 years ago, and 21 years later most performance tuners are still scratching their heads at how to get pods and CV's to cooperate together....

Only the stupid ones :laugh: They make jet kits for CV carburetors that allow them to work properly. I've installed lots and lots of them. Factory, K&N, DynoJet....

Once you yank the airbox, it changes everything. The easiest route to a properly running bike with CV carbs is to buy the jet kit. Pissing around with larger pilots jets is the first mistake most guys make. That technique is so ancient that carburetors were measured it cubits :woohoo:

Am I dreaming???? Or did Larry C just say that there is a way to make BS34's work properly? I know, I know....burn em and get some smoothies, but for those of us on a limited budget I am curious on your thoughts (Otto, Larry, Roy) on getting the best results with the BS34's. Mine are the US made version with the fixed needles. I am curious if the Dynojet or other kits are worth the $ given that they retrofit the needle issue with adjustable ones. Any thoughts? BTW, were talking stock airbox with a k&n filter here, 4-1 Kerker.

What is this new devilry?

A Pod. A demon of the ancient world. This foe is beyond any of you. Run!

Pods are the root of all evil, send me your pods and be saved!





No seriously... don't pitch them send them to me! :evil:

I just jetted mine 40/140. Adjust with a hand held dwell/tach and have never touched them again. That was years ago.

A old school mechanic/drag racer at mid-ohio asked me why I ran them. Told him they were simple. He said I sure had that bike tuned good. Roy

My last (and final) "jet kit" experience was severall years ago. I installed a Factory stage I kit for my relatively stock airboxed, Kerker K5 piped '82 GS1100E . Long story short the engine was SO pig rich the engine would barely rev past 4K . I made tech support phone calls, got no real definitive answer. I ended up taking my bike to a veteran "air cooled" tech buddy of mine. A week later, my GS was running MINT !!! What did my buddy do ? Add one size OEM richer pliots, put the OEM stock mains back in, and add a '020" shim under the stock OEM needle. So my new attitude is not only to pods suck (for the average home garage tuner), and predetermined "jet kits" are a waste of money (due to the fact of so many different engine air/fuel need variables).