Idle shooting sky high after reving

I just got new float needles, and with that I got my carbs to stop leaking /win

I start the bike up and put the choke on about halfway and I will let it warm up. But I can never turn the choke off or else it will die. And if I try to ride off with the choke where it's at, the vibrations move the choke up and then the idle shoots up.

I replaced the rubber diaphragm in one carb b/c it was torn. I changed the air box out with pod filters, and it's actually a bobber project. The carbs have not yet been synced, I dont know if that's a problem or not... I dont want to pay for it to be done, then mess with the carbs, and have to pay to get it done again.

I have tried playing with the throttle cable and adjusting it here and there... but no help so far... Ideas?

Probably cracked rubber ducting to the air box/vacuum plugs/carb holder(s) can cause a vacuum leak raising the idle rpm's. To locate the leak, get some spray carb cleaner/WD-40 and spray around a running engine at these places. If the rpm goes up, you've found the leak.

The best repair is to replace the cracked part rather than use tape or sealant.

Problem: You put pods on a KZ440; bike is now running lean so it needs the choke on to run. Now you need to buy a bucket of jets and needles and become an expert carb mechanic. Your bike will run like crap, if it runs at all, if you put on pods and did not go through the sacred pod rejetting ceremony. You mention that you don't want to pay someone to synch the carbs and then make changes and synch them again. I certainly agree that makes perfect sense, so you will need to be able to synch them yourself. Compared to the jetting ritual that is extremely simple. You may want to use the search function on this site to read about the experiences of others when putting good ole pods on their KZ440 bikes. Ed

That looks like a straight pipe on your bobber; having no back pressure is also going to effect carb jetting, making it leaner and harder to tune