Leaky tubes?

Don't forget to use compressed air and some spray carb cleaner before reassembly. In-line Gravity style fuel filter and new line. Set those carb float heights by the book, then check the actual Fuel Level with the clear tube method, in book also. get them nice and clean, then fuel level nice and even. Set the throttle valve/ Slide to the same opening with a round gauge, paperclip or drill. Once they are on the bike and running, you will have to do a running fine tune Vacuum Sync. If you look in "File Base" there is a cheap, $6 tool you can make to sync them. I built one and it works very well.

Well the carb has been cleaned and I replaced all the parts in the pack. I never separated the carbs so I'm assuming I don't have to do a sync. how the heck are you supposed to get the carbs back in those engine sleeves!?

MNateo wrote: Well the carb has been cleaned and I replaced all the parts in the pack. I never separated the carbs so I'm assuming I don't have to do a sync. how the heck are you supposed to get the carbs back in those engine sleeves!?

lotta wiggling.. :laugh: I put a little grease on the outside of the carb flanges, not in the rubber boots, helps a little. Also make sure the clamps are all the way loose, youd be surprised at how much that counts too. In your original post, the original pics, take a look at how the carb boot to the airbox is not fully seated. That will cause your sticky 3000 rpm problem, those boots have to airtight both to the airbox and engine. I didnt see a clamp on there either, i would have a clamp on them. Might not be necassary, maybe one of the other guys can chime in on that.

GOT THEM ON! had to use a 2x4. Standard tool... Ended up breaking a tennis racket in the process( don't ask...). but, it works!!!! The bike runs great and after a little messing with the idle screw, it's idling at 1200, doesn't stall and doesn't do that 3k rpm sticking thing! Thanks so much for the help everyone, I'll put a video up so everyone can see how awesome Janet is !!

www.flickr.com/photos/project-nate/6104712070/

Well it turns out the job it's done even after my awesome 10 mile ride. the tube that goes from the petcock to the passenger side carb was seriously out of a fish tank or something and it was leaking BADDDDLY from the carb end. Will they sell the correct tube at Autozone and does it need some kind of hose clamp? Thanks!

Yikes! Gotta get that rear tire changed with some new rubber! Trust me, I once almost met my maker sliding through an intersection with a tire like that. Normally not a issue, but a light rain had just started. Pumping the rears and front breaks didn't help. Once I knew there was no way to stop, I had to lay on the horn and gun through the light. A blackout Chevy SS just missed/passed by me as I hit the intersection. As for the fuel line, not sure what size yours requires but I used a 1/4 automotive fuel line from Advanced Autoparts. Its not a very tight fit but I use nylon ties to snug them up. Getting the exact size from a motorcycle shop is probably your best bet. Especially after all the grief leaks have already caused you.

Almost scared to say it, but I think she's actually fixed... again. I got some clear 1/4" fuel hose and pushed it on. Worked like a charm. I replaced the other too since it looked so good. She started right up and road her to school. First day without a leak