77kz1000 loses power

My bike was running real good at warm up after she was warm she would idle good but I would lose power when I tryed to go fast. Does anyone have the same experience?Did you find out how to fix this?Could you help explain how to fix to me?

Are you using the stock airbox or pods?

stock airbox:)

I am using a stock airbox, the bike has run intermittly over past two years, it was tuned up by a mechanic 2 years ago.

wdizard wrote: My bike was running real good at warm up after she was warm she would idle good but I would lose power when I tryed to go fast. Does anyone have the same experience?Did you find out how to fix this?Could you help explain how to fix to me?

If not already done, would assure correct functioning of the timing advancer, which may require lubing or both cleaning and lubing, as it might be sticking in the closed "idle" position, which could cause the reported symptoms.

Would also assure valve clearances are within factory specs.

If the original points ignition is still fitted, would assure it's perfectly set up.

Good Fortune!

I have new accel coils, all the connections are clean and full power is at the coils. The petcock is brand new, the spark plugs are new.The batterry is good.I have two new in line gas filters:)

I have a dyna s point setup and I am not sure how to check it or lube it, any suggestions/
Thanks Greg

Lube pivot pin areas on the timing advancer, which should be should be accessible through the timing inspection window.

Best to use a strobe type timing light to assure proper functioning of the advancer, by watching it move quickly back and forth as rpm is varied by blipping the throttle.

Here's what the adancer looks like under the Dyna-S backing plate:


Not supposed to look all rusty and crappy like this:


To set ignition timing with Dyna-S, align the F mark with the permanent case mark at idle rpm, using a strobe type timing light, same as with points ignition system.

Good Fortune!

"would lose power when I tryed to go fast."..
We'll need a tad more info such as the following.

After warm up...
Examples:
* Still Idle's at specification 900-1200rpm pending exact model and top end build.
* Sluggish off the line then takes off like a banshee...
* Sluggish until mid rpm range...
* Back fires in low to mid RPM in accelerations/deceleration...
* Pull strong to 5 Krpm then starts to flatten out...
* Hesitates when twisting her after 6 Krpm then takes off or not at all...
* Pulls well up to 3/4 throttle...
* Crap performance throughout the entire RPM range...
etc...

Holding at 65mph, let go of the the throttle, she back fire on ya....
Holding at 65mph, she surge back and forth a tad...
Most probable cause, too lean in both cases...

Now keep in mind, huge jump in temperatures, humidity air density etc... she'll run rich or lean pending conditions. Example, you change elevations recently where running, she'll run rich due to thinner air.

Maybe this will help just in case...

It speeds up when I put the choke on.It speeds up when I put the choke on. this happens at the same time I am increasing the throttle.

Does that idicate anything?

Before I cleaned my connections and installed new accel coils my mechanic put smaller jets in all of my carbs. Is it hard to explain to me how to change the jets to a bigger size? I would like to do that myself if it is possible

Before I cleaned my connections and installed new accel coils my mechanic put smaller jets in all of my carbs. Is it hard to explain to me how to change the jets to a bigger size? These are stock carbs and the motor is a 1075. I live at about sealevel. two years ago the bike was put on a dino and was running good, It sat last winter and now it has new coils with full power and it seems like the jets are too small. I would like to do that myself if it is possible.









Well, I determined that the petcock was not in the right position yesterday, but now I am able to ride but at 7000 rpm it cuts out, any ideas?