82 CSR 650 will not start

Been trying to troubleshoot this in my free time, starting to get a bit frustrated.

New plugs, new wires, new fuel lines, new vacuum lines.

Pulled the bowls off, they are clean, free of debris. Jets are clean and clear.

Pull the fuel hose off of the petcock and turn to PRI position, gas flows freely. Put a clear hose on for testing and turned the petcock to the PRI position, no gas flow. Also tried ON and REV, no gas flow.

Will start on starting fluid, but eventually dies out after the fluid has burnt off.

Getting good spark (tested).

What am I missing here??

Thanks!

Stock, those carbs have a small filter right at the inlet to the needle and seat.
this is #14043 14043-1010 FILTER,FLOAT VALVE
Could still be in place and plugged. Common in some Jap cars as well.
What happens when you turn to prime and open the drain screws on the bottom of the float bowls?

I'll give this all a shot tomorrow sometime.

Anyway that I can save that image so I can enlarge it some. Took me a few minutes squinting to find that filter!

Lots of good info on kawasaki.com, including parts diagrams, part numbers, models sharing same part, availability, etc.

Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=13&id=376734

Good Fortune!

slick94prix wrote: I'll give this all a shot tomorrow sometime.

Anyway that I can save that image so I can enlarge it some. Took me a few minutes squinting to find that filter!

While looking at the image hold Cntrl on your keypad and use the mouse scroll pad by rolling upwards or if your using a laptop hold Cntrol and gently move your finger upwards on your mouse pad at the far right side. This expands the webpage and the image readjusts. EZ solution. Cheers

Pulled the carbs off, turned them over, lots of gas came out. So.. the bowls did have gas in them.

Anyways, tried to get down to that filter, but couldn't figure out how to get the piece out that sits on top of it (that the little needle sits in).

Anyways, snapped some pictures. Hopefully this will help me get questions answered, and bring up more questions!

I feel like I'm so close, but so far away still.

What is this screw here (the flathead, not the phillips, I'm using the phillips screw in a piece of vacuum line for a temporary plug, I'll make nicer plugs once I can actually get this running).



What is this black plastic T? There is another one between the other two carbs.



I went ahead and just completely removed the AIR injection system, so now the two outer carbs have plugs on the vacuum ports.



Here's how far I got before I couldn't figure out how to get down to that filter. Which now I don't believe is the issue, since there was fuel in the bowls. I pulled the jets out, and they were nice and clean.

Lets try to help
First the Flat head screw, those are the Idle mixture adjustment screws. They have a tapered needle on the end, a fine thread, and a small O-ring to seal the upper bore.
Your Manual should show this, and have a stock setting, like 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.
Then the Black plastic tee's. Well those are Kehin CV carbs and I don't have a manual for those, but they are either the fuel feed. Which then they should go straight to the float needle and seat. Or they are the Carb bowl vents. Then that would also be easy to see as they would just go into the upper body at the fuel chamber.
Now those pesky little fuel filter screens, they will be under the float valve seat. this is where the float needle, which you have out in your pic, sits. A 10mm wrench head, it screws into the carb body. Under it would be these screen filters, if still there.
Now you really need to have a Factory service manual, so you can follow through the process of setting the float height/ fuel level. Also cleaning the rest, because you have only pulled a couple of jets. There are small passageways, for air and fuel, that need through cleaning. Take the diaphragm covers off also and inspect for holes, or tears.
Take each carb apart and keep the parts for that carb separate, so it goes back right where it came out.

Thanks for the info.

I have a manual for a similar bike, but there appear to be some differences in the carbs. Any good info online that I can download to my laptop to carry out with me, so I can get the float level set correctly, needles adjusted properly, etc...?

BTW, I have pulled off one of the diaphragm covers. The diaphragm didn't appear to have any holes in it, however, it did want to curl up, so I had one heck of a time putting the cover back one while making sure that it sealed properly.

Got the screws set to 1.5 turns.

When I went to set them, I counted the turns in. The were anywhere between 3 and 5 turns out.

Anyways, it's closer. It will actually sputter now without starting fluid.

I need to pull the carbs back off, clean everything out nicely, and figure out how to set the float level.


Also, I tried to put a 10mm wrench on that- Way too big. It's right in between a 9/16 and a 5/32. But, I also did not see any flats on it, so not sure how that's supposed to come out. However, I could see the filter, and it appeared clean.

That's probably all the updates I will have for this week. But, if anyone has any good info for me (how to do certain things, stuff to check, etc...) I am all ears.

Thanks all!