tk 22 jet's... mix n' match make a difference?

So, I've been battling carb issues on my 82 550 LTD (TK22). Pipe crackle while shifting/deaccel, bogging while giving it WOT from about 55 mph and now what seems to be a "give a crap less" attitude from #1 and #4 carbs as to where the air screw is.

So, took it apart. again. once again, found the passages to be clean. BUT... #1 and #4 carb had different pilot jets in them from #2 and #3. Now, they are the same size jets, but 1 and 4 are from a rebuild kit, whereas 2 and 3 are not. Not sure how this happened, but must have grabbed and not looked close enough when assembling.

Also noticed the main jet on #1 was a rebuild kit one, whereas 2,3,4 were not. So, long story short, I would think they wouldn't make a difference, but I put them ALL back to stock jets. Here is a snapshot. The pilot with the beveled edge is the aftermarket one. The square edge is the OEM. The main jet pictured is the aftermarket.

TK22 guys, what do you think? Maybe just small enough difference between the jets that its not noticeable when you have all 4 new jets, needles etc and maybe when you replace just some parts they don't play nice with the original?

Oh, the stamping on the original pilots is on the end, where aftermarket is opposite. Main jet OEM stamping is on the side, whereas the aftermarket one I got is around the center hole.

Unfortunately, I can't really say what difference the pilots would make. I've never measured out the K&L rebuild kit jets.

I don't think they would make that much difference on bogging, especially since they are the same size and are meant to be direct replacements. Try it with all the same and see what happens.

I'm hoping and praying for some reason there is a difference...

Actually, my rebuild kits came of ebay a few years back, and they were Keyster brand in a orange box...not the one you have pictured in the TK22 site... So, maybe I don't have the exact right one? I know I'm reaching here, but it makes some sense that the two carbs that were acting funny had the different pilots. The mains look the same, but figured I'd go back to stock everything.

Lou- Have you used the keyster or K&L kits yourself with success?

one other thing...
I pulled my slides out just to make sure...and I noticed that the main needles had, call it a collar where pattern up towards the top of the needle. These needles where from the parts carbs I got, so I swapped them out with my needles that I knew used to work, which were more smooth and less harsh taper transition.

I'm getting desparate here...can you tell?

quick update on this. I put all my stock jets in and bike doesn't crackle anymore while shifting. Didn't get a chance to try the wot bog, but will tomorrow.

apbling wrote: ...seems to be a "give a crap less" attitude from #1 and #4 carbs as to where the air screw is....

Often results from dirty pilot circuit or damaged air screw.



Wear eye protection when using carb spray, because it always backfires.

Good Fortune!

agreed. But the passages where clear on all 4 and all 4 screws were in good shape, but the offenders had the aftermarket OEM replacement jets, whereas the ones that had the stock ones were fine.

apbling wrote: agreed. But the passages where clear on all 4 and all 4 screws were in good shape, but the offenders had the aftermarket OEM replacement jets, whereas the ones that had the stock ones were fine.

Could swap stock pilot jets with aftermarket pilot jets to see whether the issue (i.e., no response to air screw adjustment) follows the aftermarket pilot jets.

Good Fortune!

I could, but I really don't want to take carbs off again.

I really do feel the issues follow those jets. Before when the bike was my everday rider, I had all the stock jets. After a mis-hap and rebuild, things were going fine. Then I had another mis-hap that required a new set of carbs. I mixed and matched jets at this point (not intentional) and these issues popped up. I switched jets back and issues are gone.

apbling wrote: ...switched jets back and issues are gone.

So currently, on every carb, the pilot screw adjustment affects idle rpm as it's supposed to?

Good Fortune!

apbling wrote: Lou- Have you used the keyster or K&L kits yourself with success?

Somehow I missed this question. Sorry it's so late.

Yes, I have used both, but I would have had to drill the mains and probably the pilots to use the jets on a Gpz.

If you have the tiny drill bit set, you can use it as a gauge.

@ Patton - Yes, adjusting the pilot screws actually causes a change in idle, whereas before it did not with the 2 rebuild jets and 2 stock jets (the rebuild ones being the offender). I know it sounds nutty, but there is something with the jets I had in there!