Mikuni CV BS34 lean but rich?

You are messing with too much stuff at the same time. You are working on the carbs at the same time as you are on the ignition. You should not be doing that. I more suspect this to be an ignition problem than a carb problem. Fix one thing first and than start working on the other.

I didn't think I had an ignition problem till working on obviously messed up carbs solved almost nothing as far as the way it ran. That's when I started looking for ignition problems.
I will focus on that first.
Any thoughts on how to check actual spark output? Good coils should be able to jump a 0.XXX"?? air gap.
Can I just stick something in the end of the plug wire while cranking and see how far it will jump to ground?
Thanks for the input.

Just get rid of the OE coils and install a set of Dyna 2.2 Ohm gray coils. The OE Kawasaki coils were SHIT right from the get-go. Use a 0 resistance cable setup with non resistor NGK, Dens, ACCEL plugs. That is a start. ACCEL plugs can be gotten at SUMMIT racing.

Sadly I have no money to buy new coils right now.
I rechecked the coils, 2.6-2.7 ohms, batt voltage @coils, will jump 5/16-3/8 air gap on all 4.
Doesn't this seem like it should work?

otakar wrote: A good sync will only affect lo-idle. I have NEVER used a manometer to sync my carbs and have never had a problem. I just do mine mechanically.

Your not entirely correct Otto. Poor sync can have many well documented negative effects, including (but not limited to) surging both at idle and during cruising, diminished fuel economy, over lean idle conditions, maximum power output, etc.

Some conditions may only apply to the hard-core finatical racers and such but for us with cv carbs - a very accurate vacuum sync means that you can idle the bike as low as 500rpm or less with the throttle plates virtualy closed to the naked eye. (Not that anyone would do this - but I can, and manometer sync makes a BIG difference).

I used mechanical sync for years - then I got a manometer and thought WHY was i being so stubborn. It smoothed out the idle and power so nicely and so quickly I nearly slapped myself.

You cant mechanically sync carbs accurate. Its impossible because of slight differences in the engine. It demands differently on every cylinder no matter what quality of tolerences.

PEACE.

otakar wrote: You are messing with too much stuff at the same time. You are working on the carbs at the same time as you are on the ignition. You should not be doing that. I more suspect this to be an ignition problem than a carb problem. Fix one thing first and than start working on the other.

This is good advice and you generally want to start with ignition/timing, then fuel, then carbs last.

The OEM coils ARE shit - agreed.

jga2z wrote: I rechecked the coils, 2.6-2.7 ohms, batt voltage @coils, will jump 5/16-3/8 air gap on all 4.
Doesn't this seem like it should work?

Does anybody want to try answering this question?

If a stock bike with OE coils within spec won't run, nobody would be riding with stock coils.
Sure it would be nice to get higher performance coils, but it shouldn't be a necessity.

As far as a carb sync goes within the last 100 miles it would idle perfectly down to 6-700rpm when warmed up. I usually like it to idle around 8-900 though. I will eventually do the vac sync.

Finally a thought on multitasking with multiple systems. I want to go thru everything that could be an issue since it's still a mystery

For me working on a KZ is just a few steps up from working on a lawnmower compared to what I usually work on with cars, which includes anything and everything on any car or truck from bumper to bumper. If it's a part of a vehicle, I fix it for going on 35 years. My motto..."Got a problem? No problem."

Your motor is NOT getting gas. Full choke to run? Cmon.

Wait a minute! Had a snomobile mercury sno twister, would foul a plug and choking it would get the plug firing again.

So there, even more confusion. If your fouling plugs the ignition sucks.

If the plugs are dry, no gas. Testing 1234

Wish I could just drive over and fix it for you.

The choke circuit may be plugged it's a small passage.

Always remember, if one cylinder is fooked up, yout engine is going to run like it's got bearings out and won't idle for shit, popping, banging, groaning and clanging.

I had a ke100 enduro, it would only run if you primed the cylinder and were pushed down the block by all the kids, when it ran out of prime it quit,

Never once did it fire kicking it even with prime.

It was the points wire broke off and was close but not touching the points.

Time to get your head out and fix this thing. When you run tests you don't go half way and say well it does have spark, it jumped xxx then say ok it sparks ok.

Test whatever your testing until it's conclusive in every way that the problem is not the part of the engine not operating right.

Otherwise how do you know,?? How do you advance when you don't know when?

Straighten up soldier! Time to listen yo your own intuity. You know the bike better than anyone.

Too many cooks spoil supper, ask for it you get it. Opinions are like .........

Thus spake Zarathustra.

My 2 cents;
You probably have, but Compression test? If not running on all this needs checking, along with valve clearances.
Pods = PITA to set up on CV carbs but can be done. Better to fit the stock air-box.
But stock pilots and needle jet settings with pods will be too lean. Put in some 40 or 45 pilots, shim up those needle jets, 127 mains might be pretty close. Use the clear tube method to check the fuel level in the carbs not just a float height measurement.
Again as everyone mentioned, it has to run on all 4 with the Ignition and engine in good working condition before messing with carbs.
Stock air-box would most likely need no further re-jetting, Pods will, your choice.

Don't screw with the pilot jets!!!! That is the biggest mistake people make with these carbs. Keep them stock.

jga2z wrote: I rechecked the coils, 2.6-2.7 ohms primary 12.3K ohms secondary, batt voltage @coils, will jump 5/16-3/8 air gap on all 4.
Doesn't this seem like it should work?

Am I beating a dead horse?
To move on from ignition I need this question resolved.
Clymers says coil specs are 1.8-2.8 pri, 10.4K-15.6K sec, and I saw a post which said air gap test should be about 1 cm.
Can I move on to fuel/carbs?