1982 gpz1100 fuel injection

OK, need some help on this one. I saved a 1982 gpz1100 but its been sittig a LONG time, something like 17 years! Any hope the FI will ever work again? The throttle is very hard to twist....i'm guessing its gummed up in there. I can rebuild carbs with my eyes closed but this new FI I haven't a clue.

What is gummed up are the throttle bodies...those can be removed and cleaned/lubricated...the fuel injectors can be sent off to a place like www.witchhunter.com and they will check your injectors for balance and whether or not they are up to spec. It may be that your fuel pump needs to be replaced but those are still available on eBay (but you may get lucky on the fuel pump). New fuel filter definitely, all new FI line, new vacuum hoses. The electronics are another matter...why was the bike initially parked?


I cannot emphasize enough, buy the KHI shop manual (skip the aftermarket manuals) for the GPZ ...they are really common on eBay.

Many of us have 1982 GPz1100's

Two more places for FI service:
www.injectorrx.com/services.html
www.injector-rehab.com/

The factory shop manual from Kawasaki is # 99924-1026-02 Nine years ago I ordered # 99924-1026-03 from www.repairmanual.com I'd imagine by now there have been other revisions, so see if they can help you. They sometimes sell used manuals too.

More information:

Cleaning Kawasaki TPS

I'd suggest cleaning the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) too as it's a carbon variable resistor that gets dirty. It's the module with DFI on it below the tank on the right side.

To clean it, first go to Radio Shack or any other electronic supply store and purchase some De-Oxit contact cleaner/preservative.
With the engine off, remove a small SS clip holding the wiring to the TPS and disconnect the cable.Put some newspapers to keep the cleaner off the engine cases. www.deoxit.com is their website.

Spray the De-Oxit up inside the TPS while opening and closing the throttle several times to flush out any carbon residue. Let it dry for a while, then reassemble the TPS cable and retaining clip.

You should notice an improvement in throttle responce.



Kawasaki Fuel Injection Sensor Specs

Here's from my 1982 GPz1100 B2 factory shop manual:

Air temperature sensor spec(probably the one on the air filter housing, or next to it).

Meter at ohms X 1K ohms ( I use ohms X 2K as it works on my meter)
Disconnect the wiring from the harness, one meter probe to one of the connector pins, the other on the last pin.

Should read 2.0K ohms to 3.0 K ohms at 68 F, if your meter won't read this, try the 20K ohm setting.

A footnote says this reading is true when sensor temperature is 20C (68F), 4.7 K ohms to 7.6 K ohms when 0 C (32 F) and 1.4 K ohms to 2.2 K ohms when 30 C (86 F).

Engine temperature sensor spec:
Again, meter to 2K ohm settings, one meter lead to the push on terminal (remove the wire as it may give a false reading) and the other to a chassis ground(any Black with Yellow stripe wire is part of the ground circuit).

The readings will be the same as the air temperature sensor.

The TPS has an electrical connector, only the first three(3) contacts are used, counting from left to right as you face it.


From my factory shop manual I'm making it easier to get the readings, by using shortcuts).

1. Ignition switch off.

2. Remove the small SS clip holding the cable to the TPS.

3. Using a multimeter set on ohms, range of 2K.

4. Measure between the first electrical contact on the left and the third to the right.

5. It should read between 3.3K ohms to 6.8K ohms.

The next test will cover the range between idle and full throttle:

1. Set the meter's probes on the left contact and the one next to it, as this is the idle position check.

2. Readings should be between 2.1K ohms to 4.2 K ohms

Full throttle check:

1. Same electrical contacts used.

2. With the throttle wide open, readings should be between 0.35 K ohms to 0.71 K ohms, see if the resistance changes smoothly, with no fluctuations or wide variations as the throttle is closed down to the idle position.

3. If there are variations, try cleaning the TPS with the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner/preservative. Open and close it with the throttle while spraying the cleaner up inside.

4. www.deoxit.com is the website for the electrical contact cleaner/preservative. It can be purchased at Radio Shack Stores and other electronic supply places.

OK, so far got the throttle bodies free! :woohoo: All I did was spray pb blaster on the shaft and worked it back and forth. Looks like a few mice called the airbox home as it has lots of nuts inside.

Anyone ever put pods on with the FI? I'm going to try my best to get it working rather than installing carbs.

Don't use pods with the FI. To do so, you have to replace the airbox, which has a single sensor in it. If you are missing that sensor, then your bike cannot run correctly. Others have attempted to salvage the sensor and associate it with a single pod but the environment it measures is considerably different from that which was in the airbox.

That sensor is only the inlet air temp sensor. You can mount it in the back of any of the inboard pods. You can also just jump the connector.

z19OO wrote: OK, so far got the throttle bodies free! :woohoo: All I did was spray pb blaster on the shaft and worked it back and forth. Looks like a few mice called the airbox home as it has lots of nuts inside.

Anyone ever put pods on with the FI? I'm going to try my best to get it working rather than installing carbs.

I've had a good amount of hands on experience with the DFI systems over the past few years and here's a few tips I can give you. Exp #1) The DFI systems do NOT like to be "air flow" modified in any way. You start adding pods, a pipe and now the crude air system monitors are all confused and cause very ill running. Either keep the DFI stock or swap to carbs. Exp #2) The DFI system is mapped pretty lean. I always had an annoying slight lean surging around 3100 rpm's. I corrected the problem with the DFI "resistor mod" . This is another reason to NOT sdd pods and/or a pipe. I even tried to block off the fresh air injection system and my DFI got all screwed up. I can comment my 27 year old DFI system runs mint.

I've had a good amount of hands on experience with the DFI systems over the past few years and here's a few tips I can give you. Exp #1) The DFI systems do NOT like to be "air flow" modified in any way. You start adding pods, a pipe and now the crude air system monitors are all confused and cause very ill running. Either keep the DFI stock or swap to carbs. Exp #2) The DFI system is mapped pretty lean. I always had an annoying slight lean surging around 3100 rpm's. I corrected the problem with the DFI "resistor mod" . This is another reason to NOT sdd pods and/or a pipe. I even tried to block off the fresh air injection system and my DFI got all screwed up. I can comment my 27 year old DFI system runs mint.

Polar_Bus, thanks for info. and everyone else! Maybe thats why the pipe looks new? Probably was running like garbage and they quite riding it. The fresh air injection system was blocked also so i'm sure that didn't help either from what your saying. I guess I need to figure if I want it stock or modded now.......

Old Injection systems were not adaptable. So if you need to richen the mixture, the cheapest and easiest way is with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. When those early EFI systems started showing up in the US before all the emission standards, they were equipped with such regulators. Adjusting them was part of a through tune up. #-5 more PSI would probably be all it would take. But the actual system, injectors, sensors, wiring, Ignition, all must be correct first.

I run my z650 on pods and it runs great :laugh:
Why dont you just change the ecu to an aftermarket one?
I run '83 FI hardware and a MS1 ecu,