jseagraves wrote:
I need to sync my carbs and I am not sure where the adjust point location is on them. Does anyone know? Also, does anyone know what order I sync in?
Thanks.
Buddy, I have never touched a 550 carb, but hopefully the 650 carbs are similar and you understand what the basic process is. Here is a link to the file base, scroll down until you find....KZ650 Carb Bench Synch.... download it and take a good look. The last picture on the bottom right really shows what you adjust, it says "adjust this screw". It is a threaded metal rod/screw sticking up that accepts a standard blade screwdriver and it is locked down with a nut. I think the nut is 8mm. When you are doing a final fine synchronization you loosen the nut and turn that little metal rod back or forth to ballance with the other carbs. When you have a ballance, or a point that you want that carb to be at, slip the wrench down over the nut, then the screwdriver. Hold the position with the screwdriver and snug up the nut. Don't push down on the screwdriver or it will mess up the setting. It's finicky and may have to be done a few times. Have a fan blowing on your engine so it doesn't over heat. The rough synch, or bench synch is done first, if you have had your carbs apart or messed around with the throttle valves.
bench synch
After the bench synch the carbs go back on the bike and you set it all back up. Start the bike and adjust the idle wheel etc. until you get a basic idle. The black rubber carb holders attached to the engine have little black rubber plugs sticking out of them, they are covering small hollow metal rods. I pull these rubber plugs off one by one and attach the four clear hoses from my Manometer tool (you can get a motion pro for about 40 bucks). So....,I already have my bench synch done, put the carbs back on, set the idle as close as possible to factory spec., have the top caps off the carbs, the bike is idling (probably poorly), I attach each manometer line to each metal tube on the carb holders, I unlock the nut on my first carb and turn the screw/bolt gently back or forth with a blade scewdriver to the setting were I want it (the mercury in the manometer will move up or down) and lock it down with the nut, then I do the rest of the carbs. I have a fan blowing on the engine. The manometer is listed in Hg's, whatever the hell that is. All of my carbs must be within 2 Hg of each other and all should be within an ideal range listed in a service manual. All the manometer is, is a board with plastic rods and attachment hoses going down to a small container of mercury. It is the mercury level on the manometer that you watch.
Do not rev your bike or it will suck the mercury into your engine. In order to do this right you should get a service manual and a 4 line manometer. They are both cheap investments that will be used repeatedly. If your carbs haven't been taken apart or fiddled with, I suppose a guy could just try doing a fine synch alone, without yanking the carbs off. If someone sees a blatant error in this explanation, please correct what I said.
kzrider.com/component/option,com_docman/...it,20/limitstart,20/
Post edited by: gas, at: 2006/05/01 16:01
