- Posts: 7582
- Thank you received: 2237
82' KZ750 Sputtering needs choke on or dies...
- mobile1
- Topic Author
- Visitor
24 Jan 2011 15:00 #425055
by mobile1
82' KZ750 Sputtering needs choke on or dies... was created by mobile1
Hello, all. I recently bought an 82 KZ750F When I start it it has hesitation on throttle response, and if I ride it down street it will die if I don't leave choke on... Being an older bike that I have no history for, I assumed I would have to pull the carbs then clean em... Now I'm wondering if the carbs just need to be "primed" as the bike was sitting awhile... My question is if the bike was starved for fuel/not primmed. Wouldit correct itself running a mile or two or would it contiunnue to stumble untill they were primed?
Thanks for any imput!
Thanks for any imput!
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- TexasKZ
-
- Offline
- Platinum Member
Less
More
24 Jan 2011 15:24 #425057
by TexasKZ
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
Replied by TexasKZ on topic 82' KZ750 Sputtering needs choke on or dies...
Welcome to the madness.
It takes only a few seconds to fill the float chambers, unless there is a problem. Open the fuel cap and peer inside using a flashlight (NO FLAMES, PLEASE). If you see mucho rust or muddy sludge in the bottom, the fuel tank and petcock will need to be removed and cleaned along with the carbs.
If the bike was not ridden for more than 3 or 4 weeks at any time before you bought it, there is a 99.9% chance that the idle circuits in the carbs are fonged up (technical term
).
Go to the KZR home page and look for the file base button. Click it. Then under "non model spesific" you will find several good articles about carb theory, cleaning and adjusting. There are also a bunch of discussion threads in the carburettor section. The search box can get you started there.
No matter what, get a genuine factory shop manual for your bike. It will save you many dollars and much frustration. The aftermarket (Haynes and such) manuals are better than nothing, but far less useful than the factory ones. They can be found pretty frequently on flea-bay and Kawasaki still prints a surprising number of them that are available through your neighborhood Kawasaki dealer.
It takes only a few seconds to fill the float chambers, unless there is a problem. Open the fuel cap and peer inside using a flashlight (NO FLAMES, PLEASE). If you see mucho rust or muddy sludge in the bottom, the fuel tank and petcock will need to be removed and cleaned along with the carbs.
If the bike was not ridden for more than 3 or 4 weeks at any time before you bought it, there is a 99.9% chance that the idle circuits in the carbs are fonged up (technical term

Go to the KZR home page and look for the file base button. Click it. Then under "non model spesific" you will find several good articles about carb theory, cleaning and adjusting. There are also a bunch of discussion threads in the carburettor section. The search box can get you started there.
No matter what, get a genuine factory shop manual for your bike. It will save you many dollars and much frustration. The aftermarket (Haynes and such) manuals are better than nothing, but far less useful than the factory ones. They can be found pretty frequently on flea-bay and Kawasaki still prints a surprising number of them that are available through your neighborhood Kawasaki dealer.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.