carb settings

hi all. can't seam to find info, sorry for repeat??.

main jet/ how many turns out from lightly seated if any?
pilot jet/same question.
air screw/is this 1 or 1 1/2 out from seated?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
just gave carbs good cleaning, don't want to put back on without good settings.


thanx jim.

The Main/Pilot jets are completely seated, firm but not too hard as to break the brass. They aint going nowhere.

The air screws are generally between 1 1/4 and 1 3/4 , not certain what the stock position is for yours, but its more about feel. When your ready to go, feel how the throttle transitions from none to very small amounts of throttle and try driving off with small throttle inputs. Just adjust the screws for the best feeling in that range.

If the bike runs/starts terrible/makes popping sounds, then there is likely too much air gettin in somewhere, either a leak or a modification not properly jetted for.

General guideline for air/fuel adjustment screws is that if the screw is located on the front half of the carb (closest to engine), then it is a mixture screw. Out is more fuelmix, in is less. An adjustment screw on the rear half of the carb is an air control screw (before the pilot) that controls just air. In is less air, out is more.

Best of luck.

thank you TeK9iNe. i will set carbs up and post soon.


thanx very much, jim.

Edited:
As for the air screws, there are no stock settings. Prior to removal, you're supposed to turn them in while counting the number of turns until they are just seated. Reinstall by gently seating them, then back them out the same number of turns that were counted prior to removal. But after 30 yrs...

There used to be a pretty good carb tuning how-to in the file base here, but I don't know if it's still there or not. I kinda looked for it the other day with no luck.

JMKZHI wrote:

As for the air screws, there are no stock settings. You're supposed to turn them in until they are just seated, counting the number of turns until they seat, then remove them. But after 30 yrs...

There used to be a pretty good carb tuning how-to in the file base here, but I don't know if it's still there or not. I kinda looked for it the other day with no luck.

The stock setting im reffering to is the setting they came with from the factory, which was clearly printed in the service manuals for the bike, and was the same on all of the identical models.

Count number of turns till they seat, then remove them...??? Maybe you just stated this incorrectly :laugh: , but I can assure you that they need to be there.

Once they are set correctly, they do not need to be adjusted. Many of carbs that came off US bikes had caps that prevented them from being changed, till people drill the caps and fiddle with them.

thank you for all the info guys. one last question if any one has ideas. after i drill out caps for air/fuel screw settings, do i need to recap/plug holes so no dirt gets in. some sort of rubber or plastic?

btw i don't find any carb settings info in my fsm i downloaded mine from kzr site. am i not looking good for info?

thanx again jim.

Unnecessary to plug/cap over carb pilot adjustment screws.

Only purpose of the plugs was to deter us pollution-loving reprobates from messing with the air-fuel mixture.

Some carb kits come with a drill bit and sheet-metal screw to be used in removing the plugs.

When drilling, go very shallow, being careful not to hit or damage the underlying adjustment screw.

May use a tube (cut to desired length) over the bit when drilling to expose only a short section of the pointed end, which will limit the depth of the hole being drilled.

If needed, there's lots of good info on kawasaki.com, including parts diagrams, part numbers, models sharing same part, availability, etc.

Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...w&catid=13&id=376734

For example, see below the carb parts diagram.

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to improve view.]

thanks patton, great info as always. working on carbs this weekend.have drilled out caps and removed screws. 1 3/4 turns for reinstall. should i remove plungers to clean they are a pain in the *** to remove. looked at your post for cleaning pilot circuit. fsm says my carbs have 102.5 main jets, looked at them they are 92.5 do you think po changed these? (member jmkzhi) said 102.5 are to rich in older post. should i leave 92.5 in? bike runs good. or put in 102.5 per fsm.


thanx jim.

TeK9iNe wrote:

The stock setting im reffering to is the setting they came with from the factory, which was clearly printed in the service manuals for the bike, and was the same on all of the identical models.

Count number of turns till they seat, then remove them...??? Maybe you just stated this incorrectly :laugh: , but I can assure you that they need to be there.

Once they are set correctly, they do not need to be adjusted. Many of carbs that came off US bikes had caps that prevented them from being changed, till people drill the caps and fiddle with them.

My post was not intended to contradict your info.
The factory manual for the 81 KZ650 doesn't list a setting for the air screws. The air screws were originally covered by a metal plug, so as to prevent tinkering with them or something.

And I guess I needed to be more specific - as per the factory manual instructions: turn them in until they just seat, counting the number of turns, then remove them to clean the carbs & air screws. Then reinstall them by seating them gently, then back them out the same number of turns that it took to seat them. But after 30 yrs, who knows what the original setting was.

JMKZHI wrote:

TeK9iNe wrote:

The stock setting im reffering to is the setting they came with from the factory, which was clearly printed in the service manuals for the bike, and was the same on all of the identical models.

Count number of turns till they seat, then remove them...??? Maybe you just stated this incorrectly :laugh: , but I can assure you that they need to be there.

Once they are set correctly, they do not need to be adjusted. Many of carbs that came off US bikes had caps that prevented them from being changed, till people drill the caps and fiddle with them.

My post was not intended to contradict your info.
The factory manual for the 81 KZ650 doesn't list a setting for the air screws. The air screws were originally covered by a metal plug, so as to prevent tinkering with them or something.

And I guess I needed to be more specific - as per the factory manual instructions: turn them in until they just seat, counting the number of turns, then remove them to clean the carbs & air screws. Then reinstall them by seating them gently, then back them out the same number of turns that it took to seat them. But after 30 yrs, who knows what the original setting was.

Right :laugh: Just thought your origional post was pretty funny.

Peace

I have seen info that indicates some of the 650s did come stock with the vm24ss carbs with 102.5 mains while others came with 97.5 mains. While some other models came with vm22ss carbs and they had either the 92.5 mains or 90.0 mains. I would say that if the bike runs fine with the current jetting then I would not change them.

thank you gd4now. i am happy with what i have. how do i find out if carbs are vm24ss or vm22ss? what to look for and where? want to make sure i get the right parts.or are these parts the same. again my main jets are 92.5 do i assume vm22ss?



thanx again jim.