KZ650 C2 proper winter storage

Hi Folks,

Looking for some advice on proper storage. I'll be storing the bike in a non heated garage for the winter and I just wanted to make sure I was doing everything I needed to do so I won't have any problems in the spring.

I'll make sure it's off the wheels and properly covered while stored, but I'm not too sure if I should drain the fuel completely from the tank and carbs or if I should fill it right up and put some fuel conditioner in the tank.

Also, should I change the oil before I store it or does this really matter?

Anything else you folks can think of? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

There's a million differing opinions on storage. It probabably matters if you live in humid climate too. Here in Colorado it's dry. I've tried running gas stabilizer and letting the cycle sit for a few months. This didn't work, the carb's gas went stale and clogged the jets. For storage of less than a year you can fill the tank, or drain it, doesn't really matter, but you must drain the carbs if you'll be sitting more than 3-4 months. If sitting for several years, all gas should be drained. All the fables about old oil sitting in your engine doing harm are just that, but if you feel better drain and fill the oil when put in storage. You should do fine just draining the carbs, putting it under cover and come spring uncover and all will be well. Remove the battery or keep it charged.

Storage area must be dry, with minimum risk of fire and theft.

Ride the bike until it is fully warmed up. Drain the oil, then change filter and install fresh oil. Start bike, and let run for about 15 seconds.

Wash the bike completely. Remove all water and wax everything you can.

Remove the battery, and bring it into a warm place to be charged 1 a month, or put on a "battery tender model" charger.

Add an appropriate fuel stabiliser to a full tank of fresh gasoline. (NOT if bike is fuel injected - drain gas). Drain the carb bowls, then turn gas back on to get stabiliser into bowls. Run engine for about 15 seconds.

Remove all the plugs and add about 2 teaspoons oil to each cylinder. Crank the engine for about 3-5 seconds to disperse oil in the cylinders. Re-install plugs.

Check tire pressures. Move the machine to the storage position, then center stand/raise the bike so that BOTH wheels are off the ground. Use either jack stands, wood blocks, whatever, just make sure that both tires are 1 inch/more off the ground.

Cover the entire bike with an old bed sheet. DO not use rain covers/heavy material/plastic! It must be light/cotton and breath well. It is just to stop dust and moisture form accumulating.

BEFORE you start bike in spring:

Once bike is on ground - check tire pressures.

Check all fluid levels.

make sure battery is fully charged.

Fill tank with fresh gasoline. Discard old treated gas properly.

perform a regular tune-up/get ready to roll.


Do it, just DO IT.

The previous post that said that changing the oil prior to storing the bike is a myth is incorrect.
Combustion inside the cylinders causes deposits to form in the oil via blow-by. This causes acids to build in the oil, promoting corrosion in the metal parts of the engine. It is always a good idea to change the oil prior to storage. This is why there is a time change specified for oil, in addition to a mileage requirement. Usually the recommended period between oil change, related to low usage, is 3 months.
If you dont believe me, get some litmus paper and test some new oil and compare the Ph versus used oil. This is also easy info to get from oil manufacturers of the web.

Also, rather than using motor oil in the cylinders, try using some engine fogging spray. It is available at most auto parts stores or a boat supply. Remove the air filter and spray the fog directly into the intake while motoring the starter. Grounding the coil wires at #1 and 2 cylinders will keep the motor from starting while doing this. When done reassemble all the stuff you took apart. This will coat the inside of the carb bores, cylinders, pistons, valves and seats, and even a little on the inside of the exhaust.
Also always warm the bike up to running temp after washing, this will insure that all water is out of the exhaust and no pools on the engine.

Sounds like you're going to be storing the bike in a protected, but cold area. Only thing I have to add beyond what Tek9iNe said is...

Get your wheels off the ground, but then reduce the tire pressure to about 10 lbs or so, just enough to keep them seated to the bead. If you leave them at the normal pressure in a cold climate like Canada Eh, you can find yourself with unwanted sidewall cracks come spring. Rubber is expensive. Just remember to refill them come spring.. chuckle.

Thanks to everyone for their advice! Should I spray anything on the metal to prevent rusting?

The best advice I can give is don't store it. The weather where I live prevents me from riding during winter months too, but instead of storing my bike for months I start it up about every 2 weeks and let it run for about 20 minutes. This has served me very well for the past 33 years. It keeps oil on the cylinder walls and other vital places, cooks of any condensation, keeps the carbs from gumming up, keeps the battery charged, and maybe most important, makes me smile knowing I'll be able to ride as soon as Spring arrives. Do keep the fuel tank as full as possible, and it doesn't hurt to put some Sea Foam fuel treatment in the tank. Ed

Just for info, but of course it's a sin, I let my oil go 16 years without being changed on one of my KZs --gasp--. Oil analysis showed the oil was perfectly fine despite sitting 16yrs in temps ranging from -25 to 110 degrees or more in the shed, so you can believe the fables or use you're own guidance. My gut instinct for 40 years is the oil does not care how long or what temps it sits in, so I've always gone on that thought and it was proved in my oil analysis in my case. Oil is cheap, change it every 30 days if you feel better and it won't break the bank, but don't expect that leaving old oil in the engine during winter storage is going to eat your gears or anything dramatic. Best thing is like Ed said, why store? I have 9 motorcycles is the only reason, only store ones I don't care to ride much. One or two, just ride all winter.

The best advice I can give is don't store it. The weather where I live prevents me from riding during winter months too, but instead of storing my bike for months I start it up about every 2 weeks and let it run for about 20 minutes. This has served me very well for the past 33 years. It keeps oil on the cylinder walls and other vital places, cooks of any condensation, keeps the carbs from gumming up, keeps the battery charged, and maybe most important, makes me smile knowing I'll be able to ride as soon as Spring arrives. Do keep the fuel tank as full as possible, and it doesn't hurt to put some Sea Foam fuel treatment in the tank

X2...i was going to say that but Ed already said it....I do the same thing, but not for the past 33 years hahah. :lol: