Help plz,, I wanna ride!!

(1) Air mixture screws, have you got them all set to the factory starting point? If that doesn't help, try closing them all, it often helps when dealing with pods on CV carbs.
(2) Might want to use your K&N oil, and oil the hell out of those pods if you haven't already, so they create some vacuum for you.
(3) I'd ditch the hoses you have jumping from carb to carb to block off the air nipples, and block each one off individually with a vacuum cap.

loudhvx wrote:

Pull all four pods, and cut out a piece of cardboard big enough to cover all four carb openings. Cover all four while cranking. If it starts, play with the carboard to let in a little air. if the plugs are not fouled, and the ignition works, this will start it.

I've used a small roll of rubber sheet to do this. With the choke on, it should start no problems with things clear in the carbs and good compression.

With the small hoses connecting the vacuum ports of your 1&2 intakes, and 3&4 intakes, this will cause a decreased vacuum response with cv carbs at idle, and is cause for a loss in mileage due to necessary compensation with idle and mixture controls. Is better to just cap them off individually, makes for smoother idle too, once sync is performed.

GL.

PS - OMR 12V is an almost dead battery... if after charging, battery sits for a couple hours, it should not be less than 12.6V new, maybe 12.45-12.5 2yrs old. Or, may need slight refilling.
Just in case you didnt know...

Putting a couple teaspoons gas in each cylinder to fire it off/get it putting a few times is ok, but dont repeat this procedure constantly, it promotes rapid wear.

Capt America wrote:

(1) Air mixture screws, have you got them all set to the factory starting point? If that doesn't help, try closing them all, it often helps when dealing with pods on CV carbs.
(2) Might want to use your K&N oil, and oil the hell out of those pods if you haven't already, so they create some vacuum for you.
(3) I'd ditch the hoses you have jumping from carb to carb to block off the air nipples, and block each one off individually with a vacuum cap.

Hey... this guy knows some $*&@!

Didn't see this prior my post...

If those pods are Emgo paper pods, they are not meant to run oiled. Keep them dry or the paper may disintegrate.

Thanks guys, I'll add this stuff to my list of stuff to check..

On a side note. today i was walking in the house and saw that I left the fuel open.. The fuel filter was completely full for once and there was a bit of gas on my lower engine casing. So just curious I grabbed my battery (That I left on 6V not 12V to charge,, DoH!) anyway, I hooked it up grabbed the extinguisher and gave her a crank. It lightly popped a couple times then went on it's own for about a second and a half.

I got some carb kits on order and i think coupled with what we have here I should be able to get it going soon!.

thanks again for the help.

PB

IT LIVES!!


So this morning I went out and got myself a little squirt bottle. I came home and plugged off all those little vacuum lines on the tops of the carbs. I pulled off my filters and squirted some fuel in the carbs,,cranked it over once and "VROOM" she came to life!!

I then decided that I still didn't have enough vacuum yet so I reinstalled the PCV lines at the top of the head and placed the vacuum line back down to the top of the lower casing just under the carbs.. as well as the two vacuum lines to the two outside carbs, and left the 2nd and third blocked off as I had found them.I tried the gas in the carbs again and she fired better and pulled gas on her own. But the left side is not firing as good unless I am spraying fuel directly in to the 2 left carbs. we summarized that since it sat leaning on it's side all those years it would make sense that the two carbs on the left side would be the worst off.. and they are.

we got it to hold a rough idle for a minute even running on two cylinders. and when we sprayed the other two carbs it sounded perfect as the cylinders picked up. So I am going to soak the hell out of them with some more carb clean jet cleaner stuff and see if it frees anything up.. Other wise I am just going to have to get my kits in the mail so I can re jet..

BUT IT LIVES!!

It's such a thrill and a load off my shoulders to hear it run after two years of building.

"PS - OMR 12V is an almost dead battery... if after charging, battery sits for a couple hours, it should not be less than 12.6V new, maybe 12.45-12.5 2yrs old. Or, may need slight refilling. Just in case you didnt know... "

12V is dead battery... :blink: uhmm yeah if you say so....

My reply to him was more in the concept is the battery charged... Without knowing the condition of his battery, age, wet cell or gel etc... if he has 12Vdc LOADED, the bike would most likely start versus let's say 8-10Vdc...

Nice looking bike! Don't forget to sync the carbs once you've got them cleaned and running right. Also, you can just run a tube connecting the two vacuum inlets at the valve cover - that's probably not what's causing your problem, but it'll stop some backfiring on deceleration.

Old Man Rock wrote:

12V is dead battery... :blink: uhmm yeah if you say so....

These are general voltage ranges for six-cell lead-acid batteries:

Open-circuit (quiescent) at full charge: 12.6 V to 12.8 V (2.10-2.13V per cell)
Open-circuit at full discharge: 11.8 V to 12.0 V
Loaded at full discharge: 10.5 V.
Continuous-preservation (float) charging: 13.4 V for gelled electrolyte; 13.5 V for AGM (absorbed glass mat) and 13.8 V for flooded cells
1.All voltages are at 20 °C (68 °F), and must be adjusted -0.022V/°C for temperature changes.
2.Float voltage recommendations vary, according to the manufacturer's recommendation.
3.Precise float voltage (±0.05 V) is critical to longevity; insufficient voltage (causes sulfation) which is almost as detrimental as excessive voltage (causing corrosion and electrolyte loss)
Typical (daily) charging: 14.2 V to 14.5 V (depending on manufacturer's recommendation)
Equalization charging (for flooded lead acids): 15 V for no more than 2 hours. Battery temperature must be monitored.
Gassing threshold: 14.4 V
After full charge, terminal voltage drops quickly to 13.2 V and then slowly to 12.6 V.

Correct - A heavily loaded (starting) battery is dead at <10.5V
An open-circuit battery is dead at <12V.
Sure a battery will "work ok" at 12V, but its capacity to deliver current is what is diminished considerably, and could very well leave you stranded with some bigger engines.

Less you have a kicker...

Apples - Oranges...

I seem to asume most people know to charge a battery correctly first before testing, but eh-yeah, often I'm wrong! :laugh:

TeK9iNe wrote:

Old Man Rock wrote:

12V is dead battery... :blink: uhmm yeah if you say so....

These are general voltage ranges for six-cell lead-acid batteries:

Open-circuit (quiescent) at full charge: 12.6 V to 12.8 V (2.10-2.13V per cell)
Open-circuit at full discharge: 11.8 V to 12.0 V
Loaded at full discharge: 10.5 V.
Continuous-preservation (float) charging: 13.4 V for gelled electrolyte; 13.5 V for AGM (absorbed glass mat) and 13.8 V for flooded cells
1.All voltages are at 20 °C (68 °F), and must be adjusted -0.022V/°C for temperature changes.
2.Float voltage recommendations vary, according to the manufacturer's recommendation.
3.Precise float voltage (±0.05 V) is critical to longevity; insufficient voltage (causes sulfation) which is almost as detrimental as excessive voltage (causing corrosion and electrolyte loss)
Typical (daily) charging: 14.2 V to 14.5 V (depending on manufacturer's recommendation)
Equalization charging (for flooded lead acids): 15 V for no more than 2 hours. Battery temperature must be monitored.
Gassing threshold: 14.4 V
After full charge, terminal voltage drops quickly to 13.2 V and then slowly to 12.6 V.

Correct - A heavily loaded (starting) battery is dead at <10.5V
An open-circuit battery is dead at <12V.
Sure a battery will "work ok" at 12V, but its capacity to deliver current is what is diminished considerably, and could very well leave you stranded with some bigger engines.

Less you have a kicker...

Apples - Oranges...

I seem to asume most people know to charge a battery correctly first before testing, but eh-yeah, often I'm wrong! :laugh:

assume is a bad word to use, you know the saying

if its running and test 12 then it aint chargin, why?? thats for analysis, and whoever told him it wasnt OK to put a little gas in the cylinders for testing may be advising on other matters, best to back off now

By the way, don't use paper fuel filters made fore cars.

This is a quote from another thread I have:
Loudhvx wrote

I've used these filters for over 10 years. For the last 4 or 5 years I've noticed these filters will not allow any gas to flow if they've been sitting for a few days. They seem to seal up, somehow.

In the video the tank is on "prime", then I switch it to "on" and back to "prime". The cap is open and the tank is about 3/4 full. Still, the gas does not flow until I pressurize the tank slightly with the 2-liter bottle. Then it flows fine. I can also turn it off and back on again and it will still flow.

After a few days, it won't prime by itself again. The filter is about a month old. I switched back and forth on riding my bikes so sometimes each may have sat for up to 2 weeks with no problem priming.

Since then, I've used metal screen filters and bronze scintered filters on my bikes. They both work great. I've gone all summer without a single fuel hiccup.

stonemaster wrote:

assume is a bad word to use, you know the saying

if its running and test 12 then it aint chargin, why?? thats for analysis, and whoever told him it wasnt OK to put a little gas in the cylinders for testing may be advising on other matters, best to back off now

Nobody said it was/wasn't charging, or at 12...???
Also, nobody has said not to put gas in the cylinders...???

Maybe you should read more carefully, from the beginning.