Help plz,, I wanna ride!!

hi guys, I could really use some extra brains here..

my build is an 81 KZ 750 ltd..

I've got it all back together now. the headlight is on the tail/brake light is all good, my starter and kill switch are working and the engine is turning over fine with the starter. I installed new plugs and tested for spark my friend got lifted holding the wire lol..

moving on. it turns over but also doesnt seem to be drawing any fuel. However; I do know that that the carbs have fuel in the because when i crack the drain screws gas comes out.

Thinking what this could be I wonder,,,

Could it just be the carbs? I would think that even with old carbs (that I soaked in gas and sprayed out with carb clean) would still atleast try and caugh a bit.

Could it be the ignitor? I would think maybe no since I am getting spark.

Could it be the Coils? How do I test them properly?

any other thoughts?

Also I am using a small inline fuel filter from tank to carbs.. should I get rid of that?

Thanks guys. I'll keep at it.

It still needed a bit of work in this pic,, but now it's all done

Before you go having a mental breakdown, always systematically check the simple things FIRST. You said you have fuel in the bowls, so that's a good simple first test, however that does NOT mean fuel is flowing any further. Next check spark. Lastly at any point in this "build" did you do a compression test on the engine ? When was the last time this engine ran ? Do some reasearch on "E10 fuel" and the ill effects when E10 fuel sits in a fuel system for extended periods of time.. I also see you have pods for carb filters. Did you re-jet the carbs accordingly ?

Slow down there cowboy.... As mentioned, take in some air and think for a moment....

One, buddy got zapped... :laugh: Yup, hurts don't it....
Translation, have spark but correct amount unknown...
Your service manual should be able to provide all the electrical checks and measurements on coils, ignition system, igniter etc...

Battery charged +12Vdc to 12.5Vdc?

W/ignition switch to on position, measure plus 12Vdc (+) to coils, igniter module power inputs etc...?

Igniter has a black/yellow conductor off it... Insure this is properly grounded battery (-) potential... Frame or directly to battery (-) terminal.... Insure engine is grounded to the same potential as well....

In line fuel filter... Keep it... As long as direction arrow on filter is correct and it's not clogged, good fuel flow...

For initial starting only.... Pop the gas cap off or loose then try starting it...

Are you using carb choke circuit to start?
If not, try using the choke... 1/4 way, 1/2 way, fully etc.... You may have to pop a plug out to see if they're being fuel fouled.

Pods:
Even with non ideal jetting, should pop, back fire etc... possibly start but run like crap... Of course, this will need to be corrected....

Just for starting purpose only, you can try removing the pods to see if she'll start... Preference is to place a filter of some sort over the inlets thus preventing crap being sucked into the carbs...

OMR

next time your cranking some ,stop, pull a plug and see if it has gas on it....it'll poop ...keep trying...


bump start it and see if it pops...

those are vacume carbs and i'm a dumb ass on them but did you hook the lines back up right...do you have a pic of the vacume and supply routing on it now? ...before?...post it...folks here know them well...

cool bike, drop some gas in the spark plug hole and see if you get a pop, if not then insufficient spark, yu check all spark plug wire or just one,? you have to coils and if one aint working well ... I actually can start mine off one coil working but thats only if everything else is perfect.

Ok guys,, i will have mor time to reply to your replys here this evening at work,, but for now check this out..

my brother came home today and was like "Dude let me hear it try and start". So we went out and I started cranking it over.. It started burping like it wanted to start but was just still a bit fuel starved. In other words, It was sounding like a cold bike on a cold day...

I was excited to get after it some more, but I have to go to work soon and The battery was starting to fade on me. So I will throw a charge on it and try again in the next couple days.

here's those pics you all were asking for.. Hope it helps "Us both". I know these are Kehin's but what ones? C34 is a name I think I heard once but i'm not sure and i want to order kits next week.. may have to cross reference some numbers on them.

You may want to re-check the direction arrow on the in line fuel filter....

Mine has the same shape as yours (coned tree tip small end with wide tree base big end)... My small end is connected to the tank petcock... Big end to the carbs...

Yours looks reversed... Might be normal or correct for your filter but either case, should have a direction arrow stanped on the filter depicting fuel flow direction....

Pull all four pods, and cut out a piece of cardboard big enough to cover all four carb openings. Cover all four while cranking. If it starts, play with the carboard to let in a little air. if the plugs are not fouled, and the ignition works, this will start it.

When I had pods on my 750 E1 I had 140 secondary main jets and 70 primary main. I have a 4->1 exhaust. I notice you have open pipes so not sure if you would need even bigger jetting.

I also notice you have air filters on the valve covers. Wondering if this is a good idea. I hear others on here suggest just running a hose from one side to the other but as we never had the anti smog stuff and reed valves up here on the Canadian models I have no experience with this.

So tomorrow, I have this list to check off,, between you guys and another site I frequent I hope I can get er done..

1 ..Did you spray fuel down the throat of the carb and see if it spits and sputters?

2..If you have fuel squirting and you have spark, to me that says timing.

3.. Anyway, assuming your fuel is good, and you have good spark, then its gotta be the timing. Typically in my experience even carb mixture (lean or rich) will still fire. Check the timing one more time man

4.. Looks like yours is 10-40 degrees before TDC

Cylinder numbering method
Left to right, 1-2-3-4
Firing order 1-2-4-3
Ignition timing From 10° BTDC @ 1,050 rpm to 40° BTDC @ 3,650 rpm
Spark plugs
NGK B8ES or ND W24ESR-U

5.. ditch the small filter it WILL restrict your fuel flow. DO NOT SQUIRT GAS IN THE CYLINDERS,,, connect a jumper wire from the battery to the hot side of your coils. { this is a direct hook up, just like hot wired }, this will clear the ign. switch or wiring as the problem..

6.. W/ignition switch to on position, measure plus 12Vdc (+) to coils, igniter module power inputs etc...?

7.. Igniter has a black/yellow conductor off it... Insure this is properly grounded battery (-) potential... Frame or directly to battery (-) terminal.... Insure engine is grounded to the same potential as well....

8.. In line fuel filter... Keep it... As long as direction arrow on filter is correct and it's not clogged, good fuel flow...

For initial starting only.... Pop the gas cap off or loose then try starting it...

Are you using carb choke circuit to start?
If not, try using the choke... 1/4 way, 1/2 way, fully etc.... You may have to pop a plug out to see if they're being fuel fouled.

9.. Just for starting purpose only, you can try removing the pods to see if she'll start...

10..You may want to re-check the direction arrow on the in line fuel filter....

11…Pull all four pods, and cut out a piece of cardboard big enough to cover all four carb openings. Cover all four while cranking. If it starts, play with the carboard to let in a little air. if the plugs are not fouled, and the ignition works, this will start it.

12.. I also notice you have air filters on the valve covers. Wondering if this is a good idea. I hear others on here suggest just running a hose from one side to the other but as we never had the anti smog stuff and reed valves up here on the Canadian models I have no experience with this.

Thanks guys..

One other thing to add... In-line filter...

Keep a filter, not that one though... Get a 1/4" nippled larger version... Z1 or auto parts have them (clear body) to see flow and crap in it if clogged....

Good luck, let us know how it turns out...