89 Kz1000 police won't run off choke

kawsakiman wrote:

remove the plugs and clean the idle jets and the idle circuits, there plugged.
advise customer that he needs new intakes.
then walk away from someone who does not have the means to pay for your services. your looking for a huge headache.

WHAT HE SAID !

Patton wrote:

blipco wrote:

...I've fixed them with black Permatex hi-temp silicone gasket sealer. Pick up a tube at Auto Zone. Take them in the house and clean them with dish soap to get all the grease off first. About 4 bucks....

Reportedly seals okay temporarily until sooner or later deteriorated by the gasoline.

Conversely, gasoline-proof sealants typically won't take the heat. At least none I've found.

Here's what the Permatex folks say ---

Permatex® Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Sealant
OEM specified. A fast-curing, rubber gasket sealant, particularly well suited to enhance performance of pre-cut cork, paper and composite gaskets. This unique RTV sealant is exceptional for filling surface abnormalities or scratches resulting from scraping of old gaskets, assuring you a failure-free installation and long, trouble-free operating life. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C). Highly fluid-resistant, permanently flexible and non-shrinking for years of reliable sealing.

Suggested Applications: As a dressing/sealant for transmission pan gaskets, water pumps, thermostats, oil pan gaskets and more. Not recommended for use with cut rubber gaskets or applications in contact with gasoline.

Good Fortune!

nobody's saying it's a permanent fix but it will work for awhile, I believe that means DIRECT contact with pure gasoline liquid not a atomized mist but I could be wrong

kawsakiman wrote:

remove the plugs and clean the idle jets and the idle circuits, there plugged.
advise customer that he needs new intakes.
then walk away from someone who does not have the means to pay for your services. your looking for a huge headache.[/quote)

what about the money wasted on an obviously inept mechanic who couldn't figure out the obvious.? Sounds like good advice, Send him on his way and maybe next time he'll get a real mechanic

+1 on that! Charging for a repair that's not repaired?
Paying for training? To much of that out there, Don't you know that's why Doctors are called "Medical Practitioners", still practicing on you!

Here's a link to some helpful carb info

www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

But no magic as to holder renovation.

Good Fortune!

I would just replace those intake boots, and I'm as poor as they get, Heh. I've often wondered though, if they weren't separated at the metal. How it would work out if you:

Lightly coated them with a good high temp flange sealant, and had some pre-cut pieces of a bicycle tube to "tightly stretch" over them before the sealant set up. Leaving enough tube to trim up even with the carb edge. I'm pretty sure the carb clamps would fit over it and still pull into their seats. I dunno if the heat would expand the tube enough to relieve the stretch or not.

Might work long enough to save up the 80 bucks for new ones. Cost would be minimal, and at least they'd still be a pretty black.. if it was a complete fail.