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carb help needed! sorry!
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21 Jul 2010 04:25 #384291
by Capt America
Capt A merica
1983 K1 750 twin
Ontario, Canada.
Replied by Capt America on topic carb help needed! sorry!
machsp33d wrote:
Um I'm pretty sure up is choke on, not off. Which is usually a sign that airflow is incorrect.
I'd check your advancer like everyone said, 5 minuted job anyway, and definitely check the diaphragms for holes/tears, another 5 minute job. Might as well check needle clip position while yer at that one. After that.
Just before you go tearing a bunch of stuff apart though. I have a fix for them nasty pods, if you want to give it a try. This is like a $5.00 experiment/fix so it won't hurt the pocket too bad.. chuckle
I've been doing it for years, because well I'm poor and jets are a pain in the nads to find the last few years, and cost well, MONEY! Not to mention they're kind of a guessing game to get right.
If you find this works for you like it has for my many thousands of miles I've put on 440s and 750s you can get yourself some pretty black foam if that is the color you're particular to on yer bikes.
For the test though.
Go get yourself some ordinary cheap all-purpose sponges from the dollar store, or grocery while you're out. The kind yer wife or mom uses in her kitchen. They're normally about 5" x 3" x 2" thick. They can't have anything in them, like cleaning solutions etc, "plain foam" usually 6 or 8 in a pack for a $1.00 and not to dense a foam. Seat foam is too dense, sorry I know it's free.
I use a blade from a razor knife and cut 2 of them in half so you have 4 pieces of 5" x 3" x 1"thick. The 2 halves from one should be enough with a slight stretch to wrap around the pod, and for a test you can just hold them on with elastics or string or whatever. I use the oval Pods, if you have round pods you'll need even less foam but do wrap the entire filter area of the pod.
Next set the air mixture screws to factory specs.. I believe it's 1.5 turns out from seated on the older BS38 carbs, and it's 2.5 turns out on the BS34's like I use. "Which do I have?" you say, well if they got aluminum caps on top and weigh about a 100 lbs you have the older 38s.. rofl
Fire the old girl up and do some fine tuning with the air screws, if you don't have a set of vacuum gauges just place your hand near each exhaust and check for fairly even heat. You don't want one cylinder hotter than the other, and you don't want an overly cold or hot exhaust, it should be just warm at an idle and the pressure should be even.<<< (but -even- is a simple balancing matter, and you can get into that later.)
Anywho:
I do this because it reproduces the required vacuum pressure the CV carbs need to function properly. Pods never have taken the vacuum requirement/restriction of CV carbs into account. They were designed for carbs that manually pull the sliders up out of the way with a linkage. (((After all they are just an air filter, not a replacement for stock CV boxes.))) About the only thought the Pod manufacturers put into them is the diameter size of the rubber boot so it mounts to your carb.
I live on a dirt/gravel road and travel up and down them all the time. I never oil the pods. I intentionally put them on dry with the foam because the oil dries out, gets sucked out, and your vacuum pressure changes. Which of course makes your bike run erratic, and it's usually miles from home. The foam is cheap, so I just replace it a couple times a season and my pods underneath are as clean as the day they went in still.
Since it's a permanent feature of my bikes, I take the two sponge halves and sew the ends together with simple thread or fishing line and then stretch them over the pod. The 1" thickness usually becomes about 1/4". I then wrap a piece of black nylon door screen around each pod and cut it so it overlaps itself by a half inch or so, and cut it just big enough to cover the foam. I sew the overlapping ends together. From then on I just change the foam and the screen slides on and off, well for a couple years at least, heh. I use a thin zip strap at each end of the pod to hold the foam and screen in place.
Mind you this isn't pretty, :lol: so if looks are an issue, and money isn't.
I think K&N used to sell a pre-made grayish colored foam for their pods, at least years ago they did, but I've not seen it for some time.
Yes I know this sound pretty hillbilly, but after buying several bikes with their stock air box missing, it has allowed me to have a reasonably smooth running bike that throttles well through all ranges. It sure beats tying to tune the untuneable, and replacing ripped diaphragms at + $100.00 each because of erratic vacuum surges, or buying jets when you're poor. It would be nice if people would at least hang onto the box and velocity stacks when they decide pods are going to be COOLER.:silly:
You can move the needle clip down a notch if need be, but I find the stock position is usually good with this setup.
so I picked up a 79 750 twin bobber project that a buddy got as a box of parts. Last he knew it ran before the guy before him took it apart. It came with pod filters but they were beat so I got some new ones. I also took the carbs apart and sprayed them down carefully not to mess anything up because it had the same problems as they were when I got them. The bike seems like it wants to run strong but all it wants to do is spit, sputter, pop and blow smoke back out through the filters as for a flame out the pipe. Also it seems to do better without the choke on...(in the up position) Any clue?:blink: thanks guys!
Um I'm pretty sure up is choke on, not off. Which is usually a sign that airflow is incorrect.
I'd check your advancer like everyone said, 5 minuted job anyway, and definitely check the diaphragms for holes/tears, another 5 minute job. Might as well check needle clip position while yer at that one. After that.
Just before you go tearing a bunch of stuff apart though. I have a fix for them nasty pods, if you want to give it a try. This is like a $5.00 experiment/fix so it won't hurt the pocket too bad.. chuckle
I've been doing it for years, because well I'm poor and jets are a pain in the nads to find the last few years, and cost well, MONEY! Not to mention they're kind of a guessing game to get right.
If you find this works for you like it has for my many thousands of miles I've put on 440s and 750s you can get yourself some pretty black foam if that is the color you're particular to on yer bikes.
For the test though.
Go get yourself some ordinary cheap all-purpose sponges from the dollar store, or grocery while you're out. The kind yer wife or mom uses in her kitchen. They're normally about 5" x 3" x 2" thick. They can't have anything in them, like cleaning solutions etc, "plain foam" usually 6 or 8 in a pack for a $1.00 and not to dense a foam. Seat foam is too dense, sorry I know it's free.
I use a blade from a razor knife and cut 2 of them in half so you have 4 pieces of 5" x 3" x 1"thick. The 2 halves from one should be enough with a slight stretch to wrap around the pod, and for a test you can just hold them on with elastics or string or whatever. I use the oval Pods, if you have round pods you'll need even less foam but do wrap the entire filter area of the pod.
Next set the air mixture screws to factory specs.. I believe it's 1.5 turns out from seated on the older BS38 carbs, and it's 2.5 turns out on the BS34's like I use. "Which do I have?" you say, well if they got aluminum caps on top and weigh about a 100 lbs you have the older 38s.. rofl
Fire the old girl up and do some fine tuning with the air screws, if you don't have a set of vacuum gauges just place your hand near each exhaust and check for fairly even heat. You don't want one cylinder hotter than the other, and you don't want an overly cold or hot exhaust, it should be just warm at an idle and the pressure should be even.<<< (but -even- is a simple balancing matter, and you can get into that later.)
Anywho:
I do this because it reproduces the required vacuum pressure the CV carbs need to function properly. Pods never have taken the vacuum requirement/restriction of CV carbs into account. They were designed for carbs that manually pull the sliders up out of the way with a linkage. (((After all they are just an air filter, not a replacement for stock CV boxes.))) About the only thought the Pod manufacturers put into them is the diameter size of the rubber boot so it mounts to your carb.
I live on a dirt/gravel road and travel up and down them all the time. I never oil the pods. I intentionally put them on dry with the foam because the oil dries out, gets sucked out, and your vacuum pressure changes. Which of course makes your bike run erratic, and it's usually miles from home. The foam is cheap, so I just replace it a couple times a season and my pods underneath are as clean as the day they went in still.
Since it's a permanent feature of my bikes, I take the two sponge halves and sew the ends together with simple thread or fishing line and then stretch them over the pod. The 1" thickness usually becomes about 1/4". I then wrap a piece of black nylon door screen around each pod and cut it so it overlaps itself by a half inch or so, and cut it just big enough to cover the foam. I sew the overlapping ends together. From then on I just change the foam and the screen slides on and off, well for a couple years at least, heh. I use a thin zip strap at each end of the pod to hold the foam and screen in place.
Mind you this isn't pretty, :lol: so if looks are an issue, and money isn't.
I think K&N used to sell a pre-made grayish colored foam for their pods, at least years ago they did, but I've not seen it for some time.
Yes I know this sound pretty hillbilly, but after buying several bikes with their stock air box missing, it has allowed me to have a reasonably smooth running bike that throttles well through all ranges. It sure beats tying to tune the untuneable, and replacing ripped diaphragms at + $100.00 each because of erratic vacuum surges, or buying jets when you're poor. It would be nice if people would at least hang onto the box and velocity stacks when they decide pods are going to be COOLER.:silly:
You can move the needle clip down a notch if need be, but I find the stock position is usually good with this setup.
Capt A merica
1983 K1 750 twin
Ontario, Canada.
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