IS THIS BAD?

Noticed this during carb rebuilds.The red dotted line shows the outline of where the aluminum cast is supposed to be, the black dot is the float pin, the purple outline is the jb weld (which now holds one side of the pin in place) and the blue arrow is the metal tab on the float which usually bumps up agains the aluminum cast to stop the float from flipping all the way back. P.O. must have snapped it off while trying to remove pin. IT WAS NOT ME! Anyway, is this going to cause a problem for setting float height or do I just bend the center tang which holds the float needle and not the metal tab which stops the float from flipping all the way back. While we are on the topic, my Clymer manual doesn't mention initial butterfly clearances for bench synching and also seems to omit initial rough settings for floats before wasting my life messing with gasoline levels.

I would appreciate any help. Thanks

Jon (sorry see additional post for pics)

pics

Might be worth getting a used carb and putting your jets in it.

I would replace the single carb with a replacement, jb weld does not belong in your carburetor.

any idea how old that jb weld patch is?....i ve heard arguments from both sides as to wether jb holds up to gas....if its been years and you can verify it, its business
as usual......

Here's a link to a good earlier KZr thread on this topic. Includes wg's repair method, alternate products, epoxies, etc.

Bottom line being okay to repair float tower with JBWeld or similar type product and expect to last for many years if done correctly.

Click > Repair broken float tower

Good Fortune!

Put me down on the side that says jb weld won't hold up in gasoline. It is essentially epoxy with metal filings suspended in it. Epoxy is not gasoline resistant. I personally would replace that carburetor.

By the way things look inside, I would guess it has been there for a while. Judging by testimony, if it will give me a year or two at the most it is worth it. I need to get the bike back on the road and will just check it now and then until I have the time to find and change the carb. My main question now is, do i need the tower present in order for the float to function properly, or am i ok as long as the pin stays secure? The tower piece has probably been sitting in a landfill for 10 years. Either that or it is still stuck underneath the floor board of the previous owner's garage.

Thanks
Jon

a friend of mine broke a post on one of his lectron race carbs a few years back it was either jb weld it or throw it away. we did the jb weld thing and he is still using that carb just about 10 years later so i,d give it a try my self. by the way i have used automatic center punches for years to drive out float pins lots of people that use hammers and pin punches will from time to time break towers off but i never have, knock on wood.

This is a very common issue. u must support the leg while driving out the pin.
i have a repaired tower in my rs34 carbs now. i tried JB weld and ran it for a year. after inspection i found the JB was starting to deteriorate . i removed the JB and replaced it with a similar product specifically made for gas tanks. u can get it at any auto supply store.
as long as the pin is supported , u are good to go .just adjust the float level , by bending the center tab , carefully)

What type of carbs are those? I've got a couple of extra floats that'll fit vm24, 26, or 28 carbs (assuming the 28s use the same floats as 24 and 26s). PM me if you need one.

For more repair success stories,
click > kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...d=3&id=258976#259079

Good Fortune!