replacing air box w/ individual K&N filters

The bike is a 1980 KZ 750 H-1 LTD.I'm replacing the air box with 4 individual K&N filters. My question is do I have to rig up something inplace of all the tubing from the cam cover connected to the valve air switch to the carb and then to the air box.Must I keep this whole assembly "rt under the tank" and turn the original tube that once connected to the air box into 4 individual lines, one to each K&N filter in order to not screw up the vacuum/breathing of the engine,crank,and carbs? It doesn't seem it should be as simple as tossing the air box out the window and just let the breather assembly hang dangle.thanx for any insight,Bryan:unsure:

forget the individual k&n and get one that fits in the air box. PO had the individual filters on my 1100 and i got an air box off ebay and she runs so much better.
my 2 cents

With a breather valve cover, you can just get rid of all that mess of hoses from the airbox to head, and run a length of hose from one valve cover opening to the other. Or you can buy individual caps that fit over the old ports.
Then just slap the pod filters on and start rejetting.

Use a Dyna jetkit!

GL.

I've already rejetted stage 3 Dyna but another question is are my carbs which are off a 83 Spectra,vacuum activated? If I just cap off the cover breathers isn't that bad? Shouldn't I still vent those?

Wht about the vacuum tubes that come off the air valve and connect to the carbs,any ideas?

TeK9iNe wrote:

Then just slap the pod filters on and start rejetting.

Is rejetting a must if you use pod filters? I just posted a new thread but ran across this and thought I would ask. I have pod filters on my bike, and am having power issues in the mid range. Do I need to rejet to get better performance?

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bluferno wrote:

I've already rejetted stage 3 Dyna but another question is are my carbs which are off a 83 Spectra,vacuum activated? If I just cap off the cover breathers isn't that bad? Shouldn't I still vent those?

No. Those are not crankcase vents. They are air injection ports that go into the exhaust system at the head. They only allow for more burning in the exhaust pipe to get rid of un-burnt gases by allowing fresh air to get sucked into the exhaust.
I think it runs better without it, and when it's malfunctioning, it will cause backfiring.

Just cap the ports or go port-to-port with a hose, as was suggested.


bluferno wrote:

Wht about the vacuum tubes that come off the air valve and connect to the carbs,any ideas?

They are absolute manifold pressure tubes, AKA full-vacuum tubes. Don't leave them open at the carbs. Cap them off. The contraption above the engine can be removed then.

H1Vindicator wrote:

What the heck... A great article on the addition of "pods" - In Search of Free Lunch

Nice try and great article, but it's like trying to stop someone from jumping off a bridge. Once they're convinced it will improve their situation there's no stopping them. I'm simply amazed at the successful marketing power of the pod industry in light of the fact that their product has been proven to be nearly always detrimental to performance. I guess each buyer expects to be one of the 1% that doesn't lose performance. Ed

Kinda like the coil mod huh Ed? :blink: :laugh: :laugh:

I guess I'm in the 1% then. Pods, once jetted properly, definitely made highway runs a bigger rush. I believe it's because manual slide carbs have to be smaller in order to work properly at lower RPMs. The pods really made them breath better.

However, I do also notice the expected less pulling power from a dead stop. It's also less friendly when riding a passenger.

Whether the tradeoff ends up in a faster 1/4 mile or not is unknown. But that's not why I use them. They make the bike "feel" more alive. I ride it for fun, not racing, so does it matter whether it goes faster in a 1/4? No. It's just more fun to ride, and probably gives a higher top speed.

That said, I also keep the airbox on my other two bikes because they can take passengers.

Just because they don't make every bike faster, does not mean they make all bikes slower.

That's where it differs from the relay mod. The relay mod works, but is not any better than fixing the real problems to begin with.

Oh, but I should add, I stay away from K&N and UNI pods. I only use the disposable Emgos because they are far less of a headache, not to mention they don't gouge the hell out of your wallet.

just got me a new emgo today from the dirt bike shop up the street,$7.11vs$49/each.im no mathemagician but i know where my money went!