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idle rises dramatically with temperature
- oldirtybob
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- PLUMMEN
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- timebomb33
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1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
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- loudhvx
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But in your case, I think it sounds like you must have a vacuum leak. 112 is huge. Even my gpz with pods and open canister didn't need to go that high on the main (we use the same carbs, just different jets).
Are you sure all of the vacuum ports are capped on the intake manifold rubbers? Are you sure all of the rubbers are not cracked or leaking? If you removed the smog device, ther are two manifolds that will need caps on the vacuum ports. (Also, the air ports on the valve cover should be capped.)
Lastly, if the fuel level is too low in the carbs, that may cause you to run lean. Have you checked your fuel level with the clear tubing method.
That motor and those carbs usually are well behaved after a pod and jet change. The RPMs will climb a little as it warms. If it's jetted properly it will only climb by a hundred or 2.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- sft1662
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1978 KZ650 B2A
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- Patton
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Could use a strobe type timing light to watch the advancer move back and forth as the rpm is varied by blipping the throttle.
If needed, the advancer may be cleaned and lubed, which usually eliminates the sticking.
Where a timing light isn't available, just manually move the advancer to check its free functioning, and lube it anyhow for good measure.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- oldirtybob
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- TeK9iNe
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Im pretty sure all the vacuum plugs are in, I was pretty thorough last time I had it apart, which was a few days ago to go to the 112 main. The dynojet kite listed the 112's as for the LTD, and 108s as the LTD alternate. it also came with 98's and 102's, I tried all of them, increasing every time. The fact that you said its generally a lean thing made me realize that I hadnt changed the pilots, as the kit only came with mains. by that logic, wouldnt this make the bike lean at idle?
BINGO.
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79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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- oldirtybob
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- loudhvx
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If you set the idle speed while hot, you will have to run on the choke much longer to get it to idle while cold.
If you were truly on the idle circuit, you could adjust the idle mixture with the air screws. Have you tried that?
Unfortunately, I know of no source for pilots on the Teikei TK22 carbs. I just drill them and it works great. Very smooth idle. All four cpark plugs come out the same. And you are right, 32 is stock and you probably want 34, or 37. (Those are the two steps available with the mini drill bits.)
Mow you are going to hear a lot of moaning about not drilling jets, but there is no other way and the moaners don't seem to remember that. If they can link to a source of TK22 pilots (other than the available 32) that would be great. So far none.
If you do a search for drilling jets, you will get a bunch of threads with the details on what to do on the TK22 carbs.
By the way, with the Mac 4-into-1 exhaust, it would not run right at low RPMs until I upped the pilots to 37. But this is on a gpz. You may be ok with 34, but might end up 37 too.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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