weird dynojet question

I have an 82 kz1000LTD that I put "J" cams into, and now I am trying to figure out what dynojet kit to put into it, whether the LTD kit or the J kit. There is a stage 3 available for both bikes (I will be running pods and 4-1) but they are completely different and I can't figure out why.

Here is the J and ELR kit:
www.dynojet.com/pdf/2134.pdf

Here is the LTD/CSR kit:
www.dynojet.com/pdf/2301.pdf

I called Chris at Z1 and we conference called dynojet to answer why a J with pods and 4-1 would have 134-138 mains, and an LTD with the same mods would have 155-165 mains. Also, the LTD has some air corrector jet that the J and ELR don't have. I figured that once you put pods and exhaust on them, the only thing differing the J and LTD are cams...why such a massive difference for essentially the same bike?

The dynojet guy didn't know, but Jeff at Z1 said that 155-165 is pretty ridiculous, and said to get the J kit and try the 138 mains. Does anybody know if the LTD kit works, or is it as crazy rich as it seems it would be...also what the hell is an air corrector jet, and why is it on only the LTD kit?

Thanks...

here is a pic from z1e of the LTD kit:

here is the J kit, notice the needles even look different:

Its all about maintaining smoothness of throttle transition ranges.

Once performed, the LTD/CSR kit actually flows quite a bit more air overall, especially on the main.

Doesnt necessarily translate into a faster bike... depends on how effectively the engine can swallow the mix and spit it out (cam setups). Its more about keeping the AFR ratios appropriate throughout the entire throttle range.

The air corrector jets are there to decrease some of the air flow into the pilot circuit.

My friend installed a Dyno-Jet kit in his '80 LTD and it came with 130 mains. The bike had no mods other than a kerker 4 into 1 with pod filters and would not run well until the kit was installed.It turns out that it got pathetic fuel economy but did o.k. for a couple of seasons until last summer when no amount of tuning could get it to run well even with new intake boots. Dropped the mains down to 120 and now is like a new bike! I think different kits have different results on different bikes and manufacturing errors abound. A friend says he has found cam timing off as much as 7 degrees when degreeing-in an engine so all errors stacked up will have an impact on attempts to tune properly.
Good luck and be patient. David:)