more fuel in than fuel out????

Help I have a kz 700 wt bs 34s and no idea why my carbs have 3 fuel inlets and my petcok one ??? Are all of these needed or can i cap off the one for prime since i switched to a manual petcok ??? also I am new to this and have heard that pods cause tuning isues ????? what to do WHAT O DO .

ready2ryde1985 wrote:

Help I have a kz 700 wt bs 34s and no idea why my carbs have 3 fuel inlets and my petcok one ??? Are all of these needed or can i cap off the one for prime since i switched to a manual petcok ??? also I am new to this and have heard that pods cause tuning isues ????? what to do WHAT O DO .

you should have one fuel inlet between carbs 2-3....the other "inlets" are just for air to get in so everytning works...technically they should have hoses on them routed away from engine....hope that helps

Concur with keith1.
And would try connections as shown in the image below.

Hopefully, an inline fuel filter is fitted.
Click here > www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=293

Vent hoses should exit to open air.
Usually attached to the two higher nipples between carbs and routed to exit underneath the seat, or down past the swingarm to exit underneath the bike.

Drain hoses are usually attached to the overflow nipples on bottoms of floatbowls, and routed down past the swingarm to exit underneath the bike.

Good Luck!

[Click on image to enhance view]

Here's the oem drain hose routing on my 1976 KZ900-B1 LTD.



Four drain tubes collected together and routed down past swingarm to exit underneath the bike.

Good Luck!

[Click on image to enhance view]

And here's a pic showing the two vent hoses routed to exit underneath the seat.

This is the oem route with hoses fitted into clips on the airbox cover.

Good Luck!

[Click on image to enhance view]

so the fitting in the center is all i need to run fuel to and the other two i should vent ??? do i need to run tubes from the float vents or just leave them and should i run fuel tubing off the over flow????


Pods are bad ???? or make things hard to tune? im new to bikes and in over my head if it werent for you guys id be lost .

thank you thank you im hopein to get it together and find someone to do my seat then to the tuner any one know a good tuner in IL im across the rive from Stl Mo

ready2ryde1985 wrote:

so the fitting in the center is all i need to run fuel to and the other two i should vent ??? do i need to run tubes from the float vents or just leave them and should i run fuel tubing off the over flow????


Pods are bad ???? or make things hard to tune? im new to bikes and in over my head if it werent for you guys id be lost .

so the fitting in the center is all i need to run fuel to --- YES

and the other two i should vent --- YES

do i need to run tubes from the float vents or just leave them --- came from the factory with hoses attached to the two float vent nipples. Helps avoid water entry into carbs through exposed nipples. Also helps avoid fuel escaping from exposed nipples and flowing onto the engine in event of a bike tip-over or in event fuel rises up into carbs for whatever reason.

and should i run fuel tubing off the over flow --- came from the factory with hoses attached to the four floatbowl nipples, with hoses exiting underneath the bike. Helps avoid fuel escaping from exposed floatbowl overflow nipples and flowing onto the engine.

Pods are bad ???? or make things hard to tune --- the list of pod liabilities exceeds their list of assets. And pods are often more difficult to tune for ideal perfomance throughout the powerband. However, where pods are already fitted, and the airbox has already been removed, could live okay with pods for awhile. But if an airbox happens to come along, would grab it. Imo, an airbox is far more user-friendly.

Where pods might have been installed by removing only the carb air intake hoses and leaving the airbox remaining in place under the seat, it may be feasible to remove the pods, fit new air intake hoses, and return to using the airbox with a new air filter. However, the airbox was likely tossed when the pods were installed.

Good Luck!

thanks for everyones help this site rocks!!!! is there any way i can help ? just drop a me line

The BS34 carbs do not require any lines on the outlets at the very bottom of the bowls, as these ARE NOT overflow outlets. If any of these are leaking, you should not run the bike until it is properly sealed.

They are only drains, controlled by the adjacent screws. If the float valve seats are not sealing properly, the carbs will overflow directly into the carb itself, and then into your air filter/box or engine.

Good luck.

TeK9iNe wrote:

The BS34 carbs do not require any lines on the outlets at the very bottom of the bowls, as these ARE NOT overflow outlets. If any of these are leaking, you should not run the bike until it is properly sealed.

They are only drains, controlled by the adjacent screws. If the float valve seats are not sealing properly, the carbs will overflow directly into the carb itself, and then into your air filter/box or engine.

Good luck.

Thanks for the heads up with that good information.

Which brings up another point --- without a carb overflow circuit, would be extra careful always remembering to turn the manual petcock OFF whenever the engine isn't running.

Improperly sealing float valves are the usual troublemakers, but a leaking or sticking or improperly adjusted float may also allow excessive fuel flow into the carb.

Fwiw, this is the same situation with Mikuni 29 smoothbore carbs having no floatbowl overflow circuits.

If fuel escapes from airbox or pod, should sniff-test the crankcase oil and examine its physical condition to assure the oil hasn't been diluted with gasoline.

Good Luck!

Patton wrote:

TeK9iNe wrote:

The BS34 carbs do not require any lines on the outlets at the very bottom of the bowls, as these ARE NOT overflow outlets. If any of these are leaking, you should not run the bike until it is properly sealed.

They are only drains, controlled by the adjacent screws. If the float valve seats are not sealing properly, the carbs will overflow directly into the carb itself, and then into your air filter/box or engine.

Good luck.

Thanks for the heads up with that good information.

Which brings up another point --- without a carb overflow circuit, would be extra careful always remembering to turn the manual petcock OFF whenever the engine isn't running.

Improperly sealing float valves are the usual troublemakers, but a leaking or sticking or improperly adjusted float may also allow excessive fuel flow into the carb.

Fwiw, this is the same situation with Mikuni 29 smoothbore carbs having no floatbowl overflow circuits.

If fuel escapes from airbox or pod, should sniff-test the crankcase oil and examine its physical condition to assure the oil hasn't been diluted with gasoline.

Good Luck!

why its a good practice to check siteglass before every ride.....if for some reason the ol' sniffer fails you, seeing oil level up past the glass will be a clue...