kz750n carb removal question

Greetings,

I am trying to remove these carbs so I can clean them using the lemon juice method.

I've actually been able to loosen the carbs but there is a cable that I do not know how to remove. It appears from looking at my manual this is the throttle valve adjuster. Is the bracket able to be removed from the carbs? Here is a pic: Just need to get these carbs off already.

go for the locknut just south of what you have pointed to....probably another one underneath that bracket also....

Like keith1 said - undo the locknut and also if there is one underneath the bracket. However, it's much easier to do this if you first disconnect the carbs from the airbox hoses or pods and also from the carb boots which connect the carbs to the engine. Pull back the rack of carbs from the engine and then undo the throttle cable locknut, pull up the throttle mechanism and slip the end of the cable out of the hole it fits into. You really cant do this until you get the carbs off.
Good luck

Come to think of it, I think you have the locknut on the wrong side of the bracket. I think there is only one locknut on that cable and it should be under the bracket, not over it like in your picture.

I was able to get them out using your suggestions above. Just had to undo the locknut to get more slack so I can pull the carbs out enough and release the cable from the linkage.

I have some questions. Be advised this is my first time cleaning carbs:

1) Will I need to replace the gaskets in the carbs or can I reuse them?

2) Should I buy a rebuild kit on ebay?

3) Do I need to separate each carb? What main things should I be cleaning? Note that the problems I have been experiencing with bike would be a rough idle, and it would only be able to idle and sometimes would only be able to run with the choke open. Only when it really was warmed up(after 30 minutes of riding or so) would it be able to ride without the choke on.

Float bowl gaskets for sure would be required, but if you are going to go through the trouble of cleaning the carbs, I would suggest getting the rebuild kits. At least then you can just install new jets and not have to worry to much about cleaning the old ones. Keep the originals for spares.

When you rebuild your carbs, it would be safe to rebuild them 1 at a time and keep the parts organized in plastic containers.

Have a compressor ready to blow out all of the passages.

When reinstalling the carbs, it would be nice to have someone else there to give you a hand lining the cabs up in the air boots bofore pushing the front of the carbs into the maifold.

I also found that a wooden prybar ( hammer) or similar helped to leverage the carbs into finial position.

Also greese up the choke rod and the lifter rod when reinstalling them on the rack. It makes it much easier to reinstall and will make for smooth operation.

Be sure to remove all of the orings and rubber bits as the these bits will be damaged if not removed.

You could also put some teflon tape around the fuel T where the fule line attaches to prevent leaks.

I just rebuilt mine for the first time and it was a fun exeperience.

(Caution: When reinstalling the floats, make sure you install them in the correct orientation.. check for the ware mark from the needle (it should appear as a small circle on the float tang) and you will be good to go.

Good luck BRO.

I'm starting to wonder if these carbs are my problem. Everything looks clean after opening one up:





Which one exactly is the pilot jet. My manual isn't too helpful at all. I get a rough idle and I think perhaps I should just focus on cleaning the pilot jet. What do you guys think? Would I have to sync the carbs if I remove the pilot jet to clean it?

Clean everything. Now that you have the carbs off you might as well go ahead and do a really god job on them. The carbs may look clean but there are many tiny holes and a blockage in one may cause problems. When I do this I get 4 glass bowls mark them 1, 2, 3 and 4 and then place all the parts from carb 1 in glass 1 etc. That way you dont get them mixed up and can put everything back where it came from.

I would use a stiff nylon bristle and poke it into every oriface you can find. I like to use carb cleaner in a spray can. If you do this then please please wear safety glasses. As soon as you spray carb cleaner down one hole it will come out another and dissolve you eyeballs .
Your pilot jet is under the plastic plug. You will need a very small screwdriver to unscrew it.
I would recommend to synchronise the carbs when you put them back on the bike and I think this should be done regardless of how much or how little work you have done. Do the job well and your bike will run well.
Good luck

Your carbs do look pretty spiffy. At a minimum I would remove the jets and float needle and seat. Inspect and clean with carb cleaner and compressed air. Soak overnight in Berryman's if necessary. Spray some carb cleaner through all other orifices while you are in there and blow out with compressed air.

JR gave some great advice as well.

JR wrote:

Like keith1 said - undo the locknut and also if there is one underneath the bracket. However, it's much easier to do this if you first disconnect the carbs from the airbox hoses or pods and also from the carb boots which connect the carbs to the engine. Pull back the rack of carbs from the engine and then undo the throttle cable locknut, pull up the throttle mechanism and slip the end of the cable out of the hole it fits into. You really cant do this until you get the carbs off.
Good luck

Come to think of it, I think you have the locknut on the wrong side of the bracket. I think there is only one locknut on that cable and it should be under the bracket, not over it like in your picture.

Hey, I recently put the carbs back on, put a fuel filter on, etc. Right now when I start the bike it is accelerating and decelerating sporadically. I believe this has to do with the throttle adjustment.

I have been playing with the the black idle adjustment screw. Turning the screw out or counter-clockwise should decrease idle speed correct? And I have been playing with the main adjustment at the cable by the carbs...and in regards to that locknut on the throttle cable end pictured in my previous post...should it be on the bottom? I can't find anything in the service manual about it. There is only one locknut on the cable by the way. I assumed it was correct since that's just the way it was when I got the bike.

Right now I'd like to dial this bike in before I take the tank off. I will try to upload a youtube video of this. Man I hope it's not on the wrong end because that would mean I would have to pull the carbs off I think to get to it.

keith1 wrote:

go for the locknut just south of what you have pointed to....probably another one underneath that bracket also....

Hi there sakiguy. keith1 was correct and I was out to lunch. You should have exactly what can be seen in your pic + another nut under the bracket. You need to adjust everything so that you have about a 1/4 inch free play in the throttle grip. i.e. when you twist the throttle it moves 1/4 inch before anything happens. Then let the bike warm up well - maybe 10 min - before setting finally the idle adjust knob. Watch out for air leaks around where the carbs conect to the motor and you should make sure the throttle cable is not sticking. Could be a good time to oil the cable.

JR wrote:

keith1 wrote:

go for the locknut just south of what you have pointed to....probably another one underneath that bracket also....

Hi there sakiguy. keith1 was correct and I was out to lunch. You should have exactly what can be seen in your pic + another nut under the bracket. You need to adjust everything so that you have about a 1/4 inch free play in the throttle grip. i.e. when you twist the throttle it moves 1/4 inch before anything happens. Then let the bike warm up well - maybe 10 min - before setting finally the idle adjust knob. Watch out for air leaks around where the carbs conect to the motor and you should make sure the throttle cable is not sticking. Could be a good time to oil the cable.

Well I have only one nut on top for some reason.

Alright, well, the problem was it had something to do with the choke. The butterfly valves in the rear were stuck open for some reason, even when I put the choke lever down. I guess the assembly with that nut in the middle that the choke controls remained open regardless if I put the choke off or not. For some reason it stayed stuck, perhaps I didn't notice this when I put it on and didn't check, or perhaps it got stuck some how in the cleaning process as well.

I got that lever in the middle, and knocked it down with a flat head and it's idling normally now. Well...not exactly normally when I first got it...the thing wouldn't even run without the choke when I first got it.

Now it will idle real nice without the choke.