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sh*t I coulda swore I done cleaned them carbs
- newOld_kz1000
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- FlimFlamFlibbityFlee !! BoonFryedShickaMuhZee !!
First time I pulled the carbs for cleaning 2 months ago, I did NOT remove the carb bodies from the mounting plate that holds the 4 carbs together as a single unit. I had wanted to, in order to dunk each individual carb body into the Berryman's carb cleaner can overnight. But I got lazy, thinking "Sheesh, it's a big job separating the carbs from the mount plate -- maybe I'll just squirt carb cleaner down the throttle slide bores."
I THINK IT WAS A MISTAKE not removing the carbs from the mount bracket and not dunking each carb body overnight.
Because the carb throttle slides are now sticking again inside the carb bores, just like they were sticking before I pulled and 'cleaned' them.
HOW I CLEANED THE CARBS THE 1ST TIME
The cleaning I did before was to remove float bowl, the float and all jets, then dunk those parts into Berryman's carb cleaner for 24 hours, meanwhile I used a medicine dropper to douse the carb boddies and carb bores for a few minutes with Berrymans carb cleaner, and I would then move the throttle slides up-n-down, up-n-down, like a lazy little monkey, squirt some Berryman's in the carb bores, move the throttle slides up-n-down, then all of a sudden, for no logical reason whatever except for a need for meaningful intellectual stimulation, I thought:
"There they're perfectly clean now. I can say that with 100% confidence."
But the throttle slides started sticking in the bores again before the 24-hours of dunk time for the jets, float bowl etc. was over.
This time I said "Well, it's certainly not the case the slides are dirty, that is right out -- after all, I've just cleaned them, haven't I. So I will just squirt some household oil in the throttle slide bores so the slides will get lubricated." But after reinstalling the carbs and starting the bike, the throttle slides are sticking again.
So what IS going on here? Do I need to completely dunk these carbs into carb cleaner instead of the 'eye dropper' dousing method?
I'm just thinking that the 12 years this bike sat, the gas gumminess just won't go away until I soak the entire carb bodies in Berrymans. Because right now, the bike runs but the throttles are sticking open, not good with all this horsepower.
I now want to remove each individual carb from the carb mounting plate and dunk each individual carb body into the carb cleaner.
Will that finally, really get rid of the stickiness of the throttle slides? I never would have believed that gummy gas could outlive household oil and a few medicine dropper squirts of Berrymans.
1978 kz1000 A2 with Kerker
1980 Z1 Classic with Kerker
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- timebomb33
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1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
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- newOld_kz1000
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- FlimFlamFlibbityFlee !! BoonFryedShickaMuhZee !!
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I can see what I need to do -- something you suggested, something I didn't do the first time -- is to remove the slides completely for cleaning. I'll try it again, with slides out and the carb cleaner you recommended, and I have a 120+ psi compressor ready to go at my place, for cleaning out the passageways, will do.
Thanks!
1978 kz1000 A2 with Kerker
1980 Z1 Classic with Kerker
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- bountyhunter
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1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- newOld_kz1000
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Berrymans is not safe for assembled carb bodies. You have to make sure anything that goes in is metal. Plastic/rubber will get hammered by that stuff.
Okay. I'd heard that about Berrymans -- I was cognizant of that, and I took great care to remove all o-rings and anything that was not metal when I put the carb float bowls, the jets, etc. to set overnight in the Berryman's.
In looking at the '78 kz1000 parts diagrams, there are holes in the sides of all 4 carbs where the long throttle slides shaft enters the carb body -- I'm talking about the long shaft that lifts all 4 carb slides in unison, in response to the rider cranking open the throttle. And those holes in the sides of the carbs have plastic grommets to hold the long shaft in position and to seal (?) the carb body around that shaft.
So I'll not be removing that long shaft because of those plastic parts and the 'will it reseal' risk that Mr. Bomb mentioned.
I won't remove the choke system either -- the choke mechanism also extends across all 4 carb bodies, and that will add to the reassembly hassle.
So today I'm going to buy that CRC carb cleaner if I can find it at an auto parts store.
IS 'CRC' the actual name on the can of the carb cleaner?
I have some electric guitar strings and will slide the metal guitar string into the smaller orifices to clean them out.
Then compressed air. Then CRC.
etc.
QUESTION: HOW DO I MAKE SURE THAT THE LONG THROTTLE SHAFT THAT LINKS THE 4 CARB SLIDES TOGETHER ISN'T THE CAUSE OF THE STICKING?
This was one issue I wanted to get at when I disassembled the carbs -- making sure that long shaft that runs through all 4 carb bodies is LUBRICATED so that it stops contributing to the sticking of the throttle.
1978 kz1000 A2 with Kerker
1980 Z1 Classic with Kerker
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- keith1
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bountyhunter wrote:
Berrymans is not safe for assembled carb bodies. You have to make sure anything that goes in is metal. Plastic/rubber will get hammered by that stuff.
Okay. I'd heard that about Berrymans -- I was cognizant of that, and I took great care to remove all o-rings and anything that was not metal when I put the carb float bowls, the jets, etc. to set overnight in the Berryman's.
In looking at the '78 kz1000 parts diagrams, there are holes in the sides of all 4 carbs where the long throttle slides shaft enters the carb body -- I'm talking about the long shaft that lifts all 4 carb slides in unison, in response to the rider cranking open the throttle. And those holes in the sides of the carbs have plastic grommets to hold the long shaft in position and to seal (?) the carb body around that shaft.
So I'll not be removing that long shaft because of those plastic parts and the 'will it reseal' risk that Mr. Bomb mentioned.
I won't remove the choke system either -- the choke mechanism also extends across all 4 carb bodies, and that will add to the reassembly hassle.
So today I'm going to buy that CRC carb cleaner if I can find it at an auto parts store.
IS 'CRC' the actual name on the can of the carb cleaner?
I have some electric guitar strings and will slide the metal guitar string into the smaller orifices to clean them out.
Then compressed air. Then CRC.
etc.
QUESTION: HOW DO I MAKE SURE THAT THE LONG THROTTLE SHAFT THAT LINKS THE 4 CARB SLIDES TOGETHER ISN'T THE CAUSE OF THE STICKING?
This was one issue I wanted to get at when I disassembled the carbs -- making sure that long shaft that runs through all 4 carb bodies is LUBRICATED so that it stops contributing to the sticking of the throttle.
pull the bowls
pull the jets and fuel valves
pull the tops
yes, the throttle shaft could be sticking, take out the 4 screws that hold it and the small plate...
pull the choke shaft
pull the slides, try to remember which came from which hole..
clean em like Timebomb said, then hit em again...i always like to say.."if you dont get a squirt or two of carb clean in the eye during this, you aint being thourough enough"....
when you reassemble, a very light coat of grease on throttle shaft....i think the manual has that.....i hit the shaft with a little mothers to polish it up a little.....
i did a set of 28mm vm s with this method and they fired right up on first revolution of motor...good luck
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- TeK9iNe
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All good info...
Float levels are super/most important in properly clean carbs. Make sure they are all EXACTLY spec, and nothing else.
GL!
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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