cant get it to idle[79 kz650 b3]

hi everybody its me again-first i would like to thank everybody for their help with my flooding carbs last week[ 2 stuck float needles]now i have the leek fixed its time to do the syncing- the problem is-when iget the bike started and warmed up it dies and when itry to start it again it might run for a minute or two and it dies again especially when i open the throttle.all hoses are hooked up technicaly i think every thing is in order-but im no expert-mix screws on the carbs set to 1.5 turns out -tried fiddling with throttle and choke but no real improvement.seems like when the bike is cold the engine will idle longer than when its warmed .i hope i dont have to take the f***ing carbs off again but ill just have to do what it takes...thanks all....mike

"i hope i dont have to take the f***ing carbs off again "...
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: Laughing with you not at you... Welcome to the wonderful world of carb tuning and yes, you most liekly will need to pull the carbs several more times to get dialed in.... Just the way it is, we've all been there

Can't remember you carb of jetting so let's start there shall...jetting/screw adjustments need tweaking.

NOTE: This is based on assuming your carbs, intakes, vacuum leaks etc... are not the problem, only

Set all 4 pilots to manual specifications ~ 1 - 1.5 turns out....

Now I don't remember if you purchased a Gunson Color tune but this is where it comes in real handy... See, not all carbs are the same setting, even with brand new carbs...
One may be 1 turn out while the other is 1.75 turns out for ideal mixtures... The Gunson would help you determine this for each carb!

If you can ge the bike to start/idle long enough,
set to ~ 1500rpms to start for the gauge/sync....

Again follow your manual to get all 4 carbs synched....
Then adjust your idle down to specification....

NOTE: Pending your configurations, your engine may prefer a higher idle... Example spec is 800-1000rpm but based on engine/head modifications, prefers 1200rpm....

Let us know how it works out...

Then if required, refresh our old ass memories which carbs we're speaking of and what jet's are installed and we'll go from there....

OMR

Sorry Irishmike, I don't know what may have been covered in your previous threads but here's my 2 cents worth.

Carb setting are the very last thing you set and the typical troubleshooting sequence is:
1) Valve gap check and or adjustment.
2) Spark Plug check and or replacement and re-gapping.
3) High Voltage wire check and or replacement.
4) Coil(s) check and or replacement.
5) Coil(s) (+) Battery Voltage at input terminal check and or implement WG Coil Re-powering mod.
5) Ignition Timing check and or adjustment.
6) Gas Cap breather check.
7) Fuel Petcock Internal Filter check, cleaning and or replacement.
Addition of good quality inline fuel filter between petcock and carb fuel hose.
9) Carb Holder air leak test and or replacement.
10) Carb Intake Hose air leak test and or replacement.

Now, preceded by a thorough carb cleaning including all air and fuel passageways plus the use of appropriately sized jets for your air intake filtering and exhaust gas handling setup, in the Carbs themselves:
1) Carb Fuel Intake Needle Valve check and or replace.
2) Carb Float Service Level adjustment with clear plastic hose tool.
3) Carb Sync adjustment using static method using the appropriate diameter wire or drill bit.
4) Carb Sync adjustment using dynamic method using Vacuum gauges or Vacuum tool, if available, is superior.
5) Carb Air/Fuel Ratio setting using the appropriate number of turns out from light seating method.
6) Carb Air/Fuel Ratio setting using the Gunson Colortune spark plug replacement tool, if available, is superior.

Hope this is useful to you.

Best of success.
Bill

PS
i-Mike let’s get your year, model and location in your signature to get the responses and because its considered real friendly too.
Bill

Another example of pod challenge?

thanks again everybody-i posted areply yesterday but iguess its floating around in cyberspace-i finally got it to idle at about 1200 rpms-[102.5 mains-dunstall bolt on mufflers-pod filters]the problem i think is petcock related engine keeps idleing with petcock on the reserve position[full tank]if itry to lower the mix any more it starts to clunk[once i got it running now the electric start button works too]what a bonus!!![it has sat 4 10 years]im going to fine sync the carbs with the manometer either today or next week [its damn hot here in vegas!!]ive allready gone through the rest of the steps[float needles got stuckeveen after 2 extrene cleanings] but all is well now.maybe ineed anew petcock or rebuild kit-this is my first rebuild project that needed so much but it sure is satisfying when you finally get it right-still alot of cussing to go butilove it...ha ha ha ha ...next ...eletric system [lots of un conected lights and wires thanks again mike....

Might be fuel starvation resulting from clogged screens on the petcock pickup tubes inside the fuel tank. Or perhaps a clogged inline fuel filter.
Or even a clogged vent in the fuel tank cap.

What sometimes happens is that the floatbowls get slowly filled with fuel dribbling past the clogs, then the bike performs okay for a short while until the floatbowls go dry.

A typical example of fuel starvation due to clogging for whatever reason, is the bike falters or just quits during a ride. After pulled over for a short while, it cranks right up again and runs okay for a short time, then craps out again. WTF? Scenerio repeats indefinitely.

Good Luck!