WORKING CHEAP MUTI CARB SYNC TOOL

:woohoo:
So I ran accross a posting on another forum awhile back about a cheap way to make your own carb sync tool, so it's not my Idea. I do use it though with very good results.
You will need the following:
1-Yard Stick, metal preferred.
20 foot 1/4" clear vinyl tubing.
Clear sticky tape.
Some ATF I.E red light fluid, you could use food coloring in water. But then it will freeze.
Some zip ties for hanging or attachment/ optional.

Now take the tubing and make a loop at halfway point, this is the bottom. Make it go up the yard stick, attach with the clear tape and maybe a zip tie or two. Now you will have to put 1 end of the tubing into the ATF and apply suction to the other end to get fluid into tubing. Get it so there will be about a foot on each side once it levels out. This will take hanging it overnight.
Now once ready you should have a basic fluid gauge, that you can attach to the vacuum ports on your manifolds or carb's depending on set up. The fluid will travel to the cylinder with the highest vacuum signal. You should be able to adjust it so it becomes stationary in the tubing. Equal height is not important, movement is. Of course as with all fuel issues you must have the basic's first, equal compression/ no vacuum leaks/ good ignition/ good fuel/ clean fuel system. Carb sync is the final adjustment after all is OK.
Try it out it is very responsive and ends up with a good tune, you can try it at different throttle openings. But you can only work with 2 carb's at a time. Still really good for about $6 !!!!!!!!!!

A similar tool is already posted in the filebase under non-model specific. I'm planning on using it soon to sync my carbs after cleaning/reassembling.

Sorry did a search and didn't see it. It does work quite well as long as everything is in order. This is the same for all carb sync tools.

Built one using the file on this site.. Works like a charm. I sprung a few extra bucks and put a real valve in it and use 15w fork oil for the fluid.

OK why the valve, looks like its in the bottom of the loop?

You need to have the valve closed when you start the motor due to the fact the carbs are not yet in sync. Open it real slow and you will see the fluid pull one way or another.

If the valve is open at startup it will suck that oil into one cylinder quicker than you can close it. Don't ask how I know..:blush:

The entire process takes a bit to get used to but once you get a feel for things it is fairly easy. I have pulled my carbs a few times and I resync if I change a float height or something similar.

OK I get it, I warm up good first and if it really starts to move I shut down. Maybe I'll put that valve in since it's been sitting around looking neglected.

Here is another great idea! You could just use 4 bottles, 2 on each 2 carbs....

Im gonna make one tomorrow, Ill let ya know how this works.

faq.ninja250.org/index.php/Is_there_a_carb_sync_tool%3F

This looks interesting. I can easily see how this works on two carbs, but I'm not sure how to get four working together. Let's suppose that one pair of bottles is hooked up to carbs 1 & 2 and the other pair to 3 & 4. We could get each pair of carbs perfectly balanced, but not balanced with the other pair. Carbs 1 & 2 might each be pulling exactly 2 inches of vacuum, while 3 & 4 are pulling exactly 20 inches each. Do we then hook one pair of bottles up to 2 & 3 to get them balaced? Will that then mess with the balance between the other carbs? I hope this works, but it looks like it might be only slightly less frustrating than trying to do it with a single vacuum gauge. Please keep us posted.

The procedure I have read basically says, sync 1 & 2 by adjusting carb 2, move the connections to 2 & 3 and sync by adjusting carb 3, move the connections to 3 & 4 and sync by adjusting carb 4. This way the reference carb is the one you just adjusted each time.

Garbone, what type of valve did you use?

A small cam/ball type found in plumbing parts rack at Ace Hardware.. I got 2 of those plastic rings and 2 metal insert and did a sorta compression fitting to attach the hose to it. The guy at Ace helped a lot.

You description on the method is right on.. My #2 carb is a bit screwed up so I synchronized everything to #1 carb and did #2 last... I think I need to replace the needle valve on #2.